Rear bump stops done, easier than I thought

[bryanp]

Hi all, just thought I'd share my bump stop change experience, got to admit thanks to a friend who worked for Skoda for all the short cut tips, no need to remove the inner wheel arch liner or the 21mm bottom damper fixing bolt! They can even do them with the wheel on when on a ramp but taking the wheel off gives much better access, This is how he advised to do it and it makes it so easy,

First jack up the car, put it on a axle stand and remove wheel.

Undo the two torx head screws that hold the wheel arch liner either side of the damper, no need to remove it as this will give enough access to the two top 16mm head fixing bolts

Support the rear suspension arm with a trolley jack and pull the liner forward enough to undo the two top 16mm head fixing bolts

When the bolts are fully out lower the trolley jack as far as it will go, the top mounting bracket should drop away from the car

push the strut into the damper as far as it will go, this should give access to the black done on top of the mounting bracket, remove it to give access to the strut fixing nut

With a 16mm offset spanner and an adjustable spanner to hold the strut flat sides at the very top undo the 16mm nut, due to the limited access it's a bit of a turn at a time but once its cracked of it should spin of by hand otherwise just undo all the way with the spanner

remove the damaged bump stops and top bracket, I found I also had too clean out the socket of the mounting bracket that the bump stop fixes into

fit the new bump stop to the damper shroud, push the strut in as far as it will go and feed bump stop over the top of the damper strut before it pushes back up, I found it to be tight on the strut but it does go on

With about an inch of strut through the top of the bump stop fit the mounting bracket over the top of the thread and push the bump stop up into the socket

Put the nut back on, it will do up mostly by finger but using the two spanners do up the nut, I used a small touch of low strength thread lock as it is a locking nut that has been pre-used

Put the black dome back on the bracket and jack the suspension up to line up the top fixing holes in the mounting bracket

replace the two top fixing bolts and do up to "FT", his words not mine, replace the liner two torx head screw, put wheel back on torquing up to right tightness, remove axle stand and jacks,

Job done, now just the other side, £20 for the parts, £130 saving for not having Skoda do it!

Hope that is clear and helps.

Edited 20 July, 2014 by bryanp

[KBPhoto]

That's very helpful. Thank you.

Mine need doing (it's an Octavia though) and I expect that it's a pretty similar process.

[bryanp]

That's very helpful. Thank you.

Mine need doing (it's an Octavia though) and I expect that it's a pretty similar process.

According to the chap I know they do all bump stops like this on all cars fitted with type of bump stop, one main reason I forgot to mention is that the 21mm head bottom bolt that holds the damper can be hard to get out due to its close proximity to the suspension spring, also it's almost impossible to get a torque wrench in with the spring in place, I don't believe I would have even been able to undo the bolt all the way!

[gianthotdog]

Hi all, just thought I'd share my bump stop change experience, got to admit thanks to a friend who worked for Skoda for all the short cut tips, no need to remove the inner wheel arch liner or the 21mm bottom damper fixing bolt! They can even do them with the wheel on when on a ramp but taking the wheel off gives much better access, This is how he advised to do it and it makes it so easy,

First jack up the car, put it on a axle stand and remove wheel.

Undo the two torx head screws that hold the wheel arch liner either side of the damper, no need to remove it as this will give enough access to the two top 16mm head fixing bolts

Support the rear suspension arm with a trolley jack and pull the liner forward enough to undo the two top 16mm head fixing bolts

When the bolts are fully out lower the trolley jack as far as it will go, the top mounting bracket should drop away from the car

push the strut into the damper as far as it will go, this should give access to the black done on top of the mounting bracket, remove it to give access to the strut fixing nut

With a 16mm offset spanner and an adjustable spanner to hold the strut flat sides at the very top undo the 16mm nut, due to the limited access it's a bit of a turn at a time but once its cracked of it should spin of by hand otherwise just undo all the way with the spanner

remove the damaged bump stops and top bracket, I found I also had too clean out the socket of the mounting bracket that the bump stop fixes into

fit the new bump stop to the damper shroud, push the strut in as far as it will go and feed bump stop over the top of the damper strut before it pushes back up, I found it to be tight on the strut but it does go on

With about an inch of strut through the top of the bump stop fit the mounting bracket over the top of the thread and push the bump stop up into the socket

Put the nut back on, it will do up mostly by finger but using the two spanners do up the nut, I used a small touch of low strength thread lock as it is a locking nut that has been pre-used

Put the black dome back on the bracket and jack the suspension up to line up the top fixing holes in the mounting bracket

replace the two top fixing bolts and do up to "FT", his words not mine, replace the liner two torx head screw, put wheel back on torquing up to right tightness, remove axle stand and jacks,

Job done, now just the other side, £20 for the parts, £130 saving for not having Skoda do it!

Hope that is clear and helps.

I did my bump stops today.

Got them from my local dealer. I followed this guide which was really helpful.

I did them both then realised I hadn't put the cones back onto the top of the struts!!!

I had to start again!! I almost cried!!!

I have saved a few quid, and I won't make the same mistake again.

[bryanp]

I did my bump stops today.

Got them from my local dealer. I followed this guide which was really helpful.

I did them both then realised I hadn't put the cones back onto the top of the struts!!!

I had to start again!! I almost cried!!!

I have saved a few quid, and I won't make the same mistake again.

Nice one, So glad I could help, a job thats nowhere near as daunting as it looks!

[silver1011]

Sorry to resurect an old thread, I'm contemplating having a go at this myself on our 2008 Octavia Scout.

 

A few questions.

 

It is recommended that the nut (no.7) is replaced, is this necessary?

 

From this quote:

 

"With a 16mm offset spanner and an adjustable spanner to hold the strut flat sides at the very top undo the 16mm nut, due to the limited access it's a bit of a turn at a time but once its cracked of it should spin of by hand otherwise just undo all the way with the spanner."
 

When you say the 'strut flat sides' are you referring to part #6?

 

 

I can't see it on this picture of my shock, I'm guessing it's hidden by the wheelarch liner...

 

 

Thanks!

Edited 26 January, 2015 by silver1011

[ric04vrs]

The flats are on the top of the damper shaft, above the nut you will be removing

[wiilydog]

here's a guide silver1011 and you can see better how the rear shocks are attached to the mount

 

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/strut-shock-installation-and-replacement-mk5-vw-tdi-and-audi-a3/

 

no 7 nut is self locking nut with hence they ask you to replace them although you could get away of reusing them,

 

however you probably might as well order some at the same time as getting the 4 top mount bolts as these are stretch bolts.

[bryanp]

Hi silver, it is recommended that the nuts and bolts are replaced but when I spoke to my friend who is a Skoda mechanic and adviced me about how to do it he said it because it's a lock nut and the bolts, which aren't stretch bolts, have some thread lock on them, he just advised to use some thread lock on them instead of buying new, this is what they do in their workshop, I have had no problems since doing it.

[silver1011]

Great info chaps! Thank you.

 

Did you have the suspension alignment checked / adjusted afterwards?

[bryanp]

Great info chaps! Thank you.

Did you have the suspension alignment checked / adjusted afterwards?[/quote?

No mate, no need, your not touching the geometry of the suspension at all, plus I think the top damper bracket fits into a socket so automatically goes back in to the correct position. I wouldn't worry to much, as an engineer myself I put too much thinking in to it also, it is a lot more simple to do thank you think it might be.

[silver1011]

Brill, thanks. I'll get some bump stops and thread lock ordered!

[silver1011]

Just out of curiosity I rang my local Skoda dealer for a quote for the replacement of both rear bump stops.

 

£202.08 inclusive of parts, labour and VAT.

[bryanp]

Yeah Silver, ridiculous price for fitting £30 parts! You can even buy them of Ebay individually for less than a tenner, I bought the kit with both stops and shrouds for £30! That's why I decided to do them myself! Also if you know what you are doing and have the right kit I bet you could do both in an hour! £170 an hour for labour!

Edited 30 January, 2015 by bryanp

[kmc]

Hi everybody! I have just discovered on my Octy 2 that item 4 in the diagram in the earlier post has come of the main bump stop and the hood has also fallen down exposing the gas spring strut. Does anybody know what item 4 is - it seems to be a metal part. When I look at buying bump stop parts, item 4 does not get mentioned. Thanks!

[silver1011]

Don't worry, when the bump stop rots and fails items 3 and 4 drop down exposing the bare shiny strut, like this...

 

 

And held in place...

 

 

See here...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341314-octavia-scout-rear-shocks-do-i-need-all-new/

 

When you renew the bump stops they all fit back together nicely covering the strut.

Edited 6 May, 2016 by silver1011

[silver1011]

Coincidentally my Superb is going in to the main dealer on Tuesday for the rear bump stops, £155...  :peek:

[Bazery]

While searching how to do this I stumbled upon this thread from boards.IE

http://touch.boards.ie/thread/2055982808

They are probably very similar

[harrykins]

Hi all, just thought I'd share my bump stop change experience, got to admit thanks to a friend who worked for Skoda for all the short cut tips, no need to remove the inner wheel arch liner or the 21mm bottom damper fixing bolt! They can even do them with the wheel on when on a ramp but taking the wheel off gives much better access, This is how he advised to do it and it makes it so easy,

First jack up the car, put it on a axle stand and remove wheel.

Undo the two torx head screws that hold the wheel arch liner either side of the damper, no need to remove it as this will give enough access to the two top 16mm head fixing bolts

Support the rear suspension arm with a trolley jack and pull the liner forward enough to undo the two top 16mm head fixing bolts

When the bolts are fully out lower the trolley jack as far as it will go, the top mounting bracket should drop away from the car

push the strut into the damper as far as it will go, this should give access to the black done on top of the mounting bracket, remove it to give access to the strut fixing nut

With a 16mm offset spanner and an adjustable spanner to hold the strut flat sides at the very top undo the 16mm nut, due to the limited access it's a bit of a turn at a time but once its cracked of it should spin of by hand otherwise just undo all the way with the spanner

remove the damaged bump stops and top bracket, I found I also had too clean out the socket of the mounting bracket that the bump stop fixes into

fit the new bump stop to the damper shroud, push the strut in as far as it will go and feed bump stop over the top of the damper strut before it pushes back up, I found it to be tight on the strut but it does go on

With about an inch of strut through the top of the bump stop fit the mounting bracket over the top of the thread and push the bump stop up into the socket

Put the nut back on, it will do up mostly by finger but using the two spanners do up the nut, I used a small touch of low strength thread lock as it is a locking nut that has been pre-used

Put the black dome back on the bracket and jack the suspension up to line up the top fixing holes in the mounting bracket

replace the two top fixing bolts and do up to "FT", his words not mine, replace the liner two torx head screw, put wheel back on torquing up to right tightness, remove axle stand and jacks,

Job done, now just the other side, £20 for the parts, £130 saving for not having Skoda do it!

Thanx everybody for advice

Hope that is clear and helps.