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Installing OEM Remote Central Locking & flip key programming guide


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i have put together this guide with help from others

 

enjoy and i hope it helps

 

Installing OEM Remote Central Locking

 

Requirements:

·       Car

 

·       VCDS Lite (activated and licensed)

 

·       You’ll need a K Line Diagnostics Cable. Search eBay for ‘VAG COM’

 

·       VagTacho

 

This does things VCDS Lite can’t, such as getting the immobilizer PIN

 

 

·       Remote Central Locking ECU Part #6Q0 959 433 E

 

·       3 Button Flip Blade Remote Part #1JO 959 753 DA

 

MUST be ‘DA’ model to work with the ECU!

 

 

·       Transponder AKTP2 (for the flip key) on Hickleys.com for £3.50 + VAT

 

·       Key blade for VW Flip key I paid £6.50 Copied from your current key Go to www.carkeyhelp.co.uk to have it cut from a digital photo

 

Method

 

If you already have keys programmed to your car skip to step 5

You just need to swap over the transponder chip in your existing key to your new flip key

 

Step 1. Put your key fob together (key cut etc.)

 

Step 2. Make sure VCDS Lite and VagTacho are both working. Remember, they can only connect to your car if the ignition is ON.

 

Step 3. Plug in to the car, turn on the ignition and open VagTacho. Under ‘Select ECU’, choose ‘VDO NEW’. ‘Connect’ to the ECU and use it to retrieve your 4 Digit PIN. Write it down and add a 0 to the front of it. This 5-digit number is your immobilizer login. Unplug.

 

Step 4. Plug in with VCDS Lite. These are for the most part the instructions found on the Ross Tech website, so credit goes there. This process is for matching keys with Immobilizer III in the Instrument Cluster

 

1.)          1 The car's battery voltage must be 12.5 V or higher. It usually is, so I didn’t check, but feel free.

 

2.)          You can check to make sure a key has the correct transponder in it by [select] [17 Instruments] [Meas. Blocks 08] Group 022 [Go!] The value in field 3 must be 1. If value is not 1, the key is not capable of being adapted to Immobilizer. You can check each key in this manner. Be sure at least to check the new key to make sure you have the right transponder.

 

3.)          [select] [17 Instruments] [Meas. Blocks 08] Group 024[Go!] Any numbers displayed in fields 1>4 represent the time in minutes that must be counted down before the Immobilizer is unlocked. If the fields are all zero, skip to step 5. If the Immobilizer is locked

 

4.)          [Done, Go Back] [Close Controller, Go Back to [06] do not switch off the ignition! Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the display in Group 024

 

5.)          [select [17 Instruments] [Measure Blocks 08] Group 024 [Go!] Make sure all fields are zero [Done, Go Back]

 

6.)          [Login 11] Enter the 5>digit PIN [Do It!]

 

7.)           [Adaptation 10] Enter 21 in "Channel Number" [Read] The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched. Enter "new value" use up and down; don’t type it of 0[save]. This clear out the old key matching’s. Enter a "new value "again use up and down, don’t type it corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys [save] Done, Go Back Close Controller, Go Back (06) Switch ignition off and remove key

 

8.)          Insert the next key to ignition and switch ignition on. The Immobilizer warning light will light up about a second, then go out. Switch ignition off and remove key. If the immobilizer light flashes, repeat step 6, but don’t type in the new values, use up/down to select them. Notice that box one, ‘old key’, changes to ‘new key’ when you use the up/down buttons To select the values, but not when you type them Repeat step 8 with each key until all keys have been matched. The transponder chips have been written already, but that’s fine because they’ve been written to the car you’re programming them to anyway

 

 

Step 5.  In VCDS Lite, locate and connect to The ECU [46 Central Convenience] and write down the ‘Soft Coding’.

 

This code tells the ECU the number of doors and central locking mode. You can change this code, according to the pop up VCDS Lite displays. You can select single door mode or all locks mode. So write down the altered version if changing the mode. Though I think single lock mode kind of spoils the point of central locking… Unplug from the car and unplug your battery too

 

Step 6. Remove the air vent from the driver’s footwell. There is a single torx screw holding it on

 

Step 7. Remove your old central locking ECU, located behind the (blue) clutch pedal switch. Remove the ECU before unplugging it. The ECU is secured in it’s own holder, which in turn clips onto a larger frame. You may have to break the clips holding it in place. Disconnect the wires. Replace it with the replacement ECU. Connect the wires.

 

The third socket is presumably for the OEM alarm. Secure with cable ties if you broke the clips.

 

Step 8. Reconnect your battery.

 

Step 9. Connect to the new central locking ECU with VCDS Lite, as you did earlier. Click "Recode 07" and enter the soft coding you wrote down. Now it will Work with your car.

 

Step 10. Click "Adaptation> 10" to change the locking settings, such as auto lock/unlock and indicator flashing. Exit and unplug.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time to program the remote

 

a. With driver's window down and all doors closed, put the old key in the ignition and turn the electrics on.

 

b. Lock the driver’s door from the outside with the fob key.

 

c. Press unlock on the remote, wait a couple of seconds and press it again

 

Congrats! You now have full OEM central locking, and not a third party in sight!

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  • 4 months later...
  • 7 months later...

That kit is non genuine skoda kit. Just wire in and use the remotes without coding. This is for genuine kits

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-VW-SKODA-FLIP-KEY-FOB-REAR-TRANSMITTER-REMOTE-1J0-959-753-DA-AH-434MHZ-/281236153175?hash=item417afb2357

 

I want genuine kits - is this key genuine?

 

I can't find non-used ECU unit for reasonable price. The new ones are in £60+ range and used ones are in 20s. Can you point me in right direction for this one?

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Where does the  ·       Remote Central Locking ECU Part #6Q0 959 433 E go ? Can you simply use the old key transponder into the new 3 Button Flip Blade Remote Part #1JO 959 753 DA so you can skip a few steps?

 

Later edit: with the 'new' remote central locking ECU, can you activate rolling up&down the powered windows via remote control ?

Later lated edit: it can be done via VCDS

Edited by Alexandru
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  • 7 years later...

Hello to everyone.

 

I know this is old post but i already change my ccm 6Q0959433A with 6Q0959433E and i already soft codded.

Now i have a small problem.When push to lock from the drivers door panel inside all dors lock but drivers door locking and unlocking and stays unlocked.

I also enable the anti-hijacking system and doing the same thing.All dors locking but drivers door locking -unlocking and stays unlocked.

 

Has anyone had the same problems after changing ccm?

 

Thank you.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 24/01/2023 at 19:45, simeonGR said:

Alsa why flashing indicators when locking and unlocking not available?

I guess it depends.I did the same operation to my MK1 '02 1.9 TDi and the indicators are flashing,I guess it depends on the coding the key guy does to your module or the module itself.

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On 10/08/2014 at 20:00, tombirch95 said:

i have put together this guide with help from others

 

enjoy and i hope it helps

 

Installing OEM Remote Central Locking

 

Requirements:

·       Car

 

·       VCDS Lite (activated and licensed)

 

·       You’ll need a K Line Diagnostics Cable. Search eBay for ‘VAG COM’

 

·       VagTacho

 

This does things VCDS Lite can’t, such as getting the immobilizer PIN

 

 

·       Remote Central Locking ECU Part #6Q0 959 433 E

 

·       3 Button Flip Blade Remote Part #1JO 959 753 DA

 

MUST be ‘DA’ model to work with the ECU!

 

 

·       Transponder AKTP2 (for the flip key) on Hickleys.com for £3.50 + VAT

 

·       Key blade for VW Flip key I paid £6.50 Copied from your current key Go to www.carkeyhelp.co.uk to have it cut from a digital photo

 

Method

 

If you already have keys programmed to your car skip to step 5

You just need to swap over the transponder chip in your existing key to your new flip key

 

Step 1. Put your key fob together (key cut etc.)

 

Step 2. Make sure VCDS Lite and VagTacho are both working. Remember, they can only connect to your car if the ignition is ON.

 

Step 3. Plug in to the car, turn on the ignition and open VagTacho. Under ‘Select ECU’, choose ‘VDO NEW’. ‘Connect’ to the ECU and use it to retrieve your 4 Digit PIN. Write it down and add a 0 to the front of it. This 5-digit number is your immobilizer login. Unplug.

 

Step 4. Plug in with VCDS Lite. These are for the most part the instructions found on the Ross Tech website, so credit goes there. This process is for matching keys with Immobilizer III in the Instrument Cluster

 

1.)          1 The car's battery voltage must be 12.5 V or higher. It usually is, so I didn’t check, but feel free.

 

2.)          You can check to make sure a key has the correct transponder in it by [select] [17 Instruments] [Meas. Blocks 08] Group 022 [Go!] The value in field 3 must be 1. If value is not 1, the key is not capable of being adapted to Immobilizer. You can check each key in this manner. Be sure at least to check the new key to make sure you have the right transponder.

 

3.)          [select] [17 Instruments] [Meas. Blocks 08] Group 024[Go!] Any numbers displayed in fields 1>4 represent the time in minutes that must be counted down before the Immobilizer is unlocked. If the fields are all zero, skip to step 5. If the Immobilizer is locked

 

4.)          [Done, Go Back] [Close Controller, Go Back to [06] do not switch off the ignition! Allow the car to sit for AT LEAST the number of minutes that were indicated by the display in Group 024

 

5.)          [select [17 Instruments] [Measure Blocks 08] Group 024 [Go!] Make sure all fields are zero [Done, Go Back]

 

6.)          [Login 11] Enter the 5>digit PIN [Do It!]

 

7.)           [Adaptation 10] Enter 21 in "Channel Number" [Read] The "Stored Value" is the number of keys currently matched. Enter "new value" use up and down; don’t type it of 0[save]. This clear out the old key matching’s. Enter a "new value "again use up and down, don’t type it corresponding to the total number of keys to be matched, including any existing keys [save] Done, Go Back Close Controller, Go Back (06) Switch ignition off and remove key

 

8.)          Insert the next key to ignition and switch ignition on. The Immobilizer warning light will light up about a second, then go out. Switch ignition off and remove key. If the immobilizer light flashes, repeat step 6, but don’t type in the new values, use up/down to select them. Notice that box one, ‘old key’, changes to ‘new key’ when you use the up/down buttons To select the values, but not when you type them Repeat step 8 with each key until all keys have been matched. The transponder chips have been written already, but that’s fine because they’ve been written to the car you’re programming them to anyway

 

 

Step 5.  In VCDS Lite, locate and connect to The ECU [46 Central Convenience] and write down the ‘Soft Coding’.

 

This code tells the ECU the number of doors and central locking mode. You can change this code, according to the pop up VCDS Lite displays. You can select single door mode or all locks mode. So write down the altered version if changing the mode. Though I think single lock mode kind of spoils the point of central locking… Unplug from the car and unplug your battery too

 

Step 6. Remove the air vent from the driver’s footwell. There is a single torx screw holding it on

 

Step 7. Remove your old central locking ECU, located behind the (blue) clutch pedal switch. Remove the ECU before unplugging it. The ECU is secured in it’s own holder, which in turn clips onto a larger frame. You may have to break the clips holding it in place. Disconnect the wires. Replace it with the replacement ECU. Connect the wires.

 

The third socket is presumably for the OEM alarm. Secure with cable ties if you broke the clips.

 

Step 8. Reconnect your battery.

 

Step 9. Connect to the new central locking ECU with VCDS Lite, as you did earlier. Click "Recode 07" and enter the soft coding you wrote down. Now it will Work with your car.

 

Step 10. Click "Adaptation> 10" to change the locking settings, such as auto lock/unlock and indicator flashing. Exit and unplug.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time to program the remote

 

a. With driver's window down and all doors closed, put the old key in the ignition and turn the electrics on.

 

b. Lock the driver’s door from the outside with the fob key.

 

c. Press unlock on the remote, wait a couple of seconds and press it again

 

Congrats! You now have full OEM central locking, and not a third party in sight!

Hello.I just did this and totally works,thank you.Now I got another dilema.I really like the looks of the Golf Mk7 key,and as far as I can see,the Fabia Mk2 remote board fits into the Golf Mk7 Key.My question is this  : Can I use an Mk2 central convenience module to to replace the on on my car?The plugs seem to be the same,and the MK2 key I want will work with the convenience module,as long as the Mk2 module will communicate with the car's brains.

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On 24/01/2023 at 18:10, simeonGR said:

Hello to everyone.

 

I know this is old post but i already change my ccm 6Q0959433A with 6Q0959433E and i already soft codded.

Now i have a small problem.When push to lock from the drivers door panel inside all dors lock but drivers door locking and unlocking and stays unlocked.

I also enable the anti-hijacking system and doing the same thing.All dors locking but drivers door locking -unlocking and stays unlocked.

 

Has anyone had the same problems after changing ccm?

 

Thank you.

Was the drivers's door locking and unlocking working before?My driver's door did not work before and after the ccm change,I had some bad solder joints on the door latch board.

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