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Suggestions for all these bits that needs doing


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So I've just had a service done on my car, £259 fair enough.

 

It needs the following:

 

Cambelt

front disks and pads

wishbone is split

tandem fuel pump has failed - resulting in oil in my fuel system.

 

and there is "oil residue around o/s/f lower intercooler hose" - i've been told this is early sign of turbo failure. Service guy said to watch out for smoking - when I boot it - even for a little bit, it is smoking a lot.

 

The turbo is a bit noisier than usual, i can hear it whistling a bit more when i'm adding any load to the engine at all. Is this, with the smoking and the service guys advice anything to worry about?

 

So far I am looking at a £1400 bill for all of this and it's a £1400 bill I could do without. The cambelt, brake disks I was well aware of and knew I'd be having them done so that isn't a concern. It's the rest of the items that are worrying me.

 

I can afford to fork out for it, but I don't want to fork out £1K+ to find out that there's a bill for a turbo to follow.

 

Car is a 2006 06 Octavia 2.0TDI PD DSG.

 

Please, if anyone can offer any sane advice I would be much obliged.

Edited by g_tee
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Apparently a little bit of oil in the intercooler pipe work is normal there was some in mine a year or so ago when i had a new clutch installed and as for the smoking the PD engines do this more than their CR counterparts anyway plus it looks like you have the non dpf version too.

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£259 for a service!?

 

That's the price of a major / variable service - I hope you had the pollen, air and fuel filter changed as part of the price. If not you could have saved yourself £120 and just had the minor / fixed service done for £139 (oil and filter).

 

I assume the £1,400 is from a main dealer as it's pricey?

 

A cambelt and waterpump can be had for £300, front discs and pads for £150. That leaves £950 which will be way more than is needed for a wishbone and fuel pump.

 

Get some more quotes would be my advice, if not then I'd be looking to sell as 'just serviced'.

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Yes that was major service.

The rest needs doing it's the turbo I'm bothered about.

I've fired off mails for quotes to local independents for the all the above.

Wife is afraid that we'll pay out for all this then have more.

Admittedly we are panicking because we only have one income and while I have plenty of savings - this just isn't what we need

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ive had my car for 5 years now when i first got it there was a split in one of the intercooler pipes when i was changing it there was oil in it i was also told was a sign of the turbo going but 5 years on and its still going strong.

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Every turbo diesel I've owned has had oil residue in the intercooler pipework - it's normal! I've never had a turbo fail yet.

My tandem pump has recently been replaced though, it was leaking oil into the fuel just as yours is, but mine was also causing poor starting.

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I find the turbo on mine sounds slightly louder in warm weather for some reason. I can alter the pitch of it by varying the accelerator pedal position. It's been like this every summer since I bought the car almost 5 years ago but quietens down in the cooler weather. No idea why. I've known other owners comment on this and it just seems to be a characteristic of the BKD engine.

The things to watch out for with these turbos are loud 'police siren' type noises, and the turbo overboosting and going into limp home mode. Both are bad signs.

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The crank case vent puts oil into the intake pipework, so some oil in the intercooler is to be expected.

 

Spot on, I have had 5 different VAG TDi engined vehicles either 1.9 or 2.0 PD's and all of them have had some oil in the intercooler pipework and pretty much all leaked at the bottom intercooler pipe connector where it joins to the intercooler (lowest point) as the connectors aren't great. I would not be stressing that the turbo is going if I were you if the car is driving fine.

 

If you do some research there is a lot of evidence that the turbo on the 2.0 TDi's are a bit noisier and tend to whistle a bit, many have done mega miles also with no issues.

 

Lewwy

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Yeah I've gotten one quote from an independent, £1342 so far. Which, to be honest, is about right - the turbo I don't think is actually an issue - I think it was the dealer trying it on.

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I stopped going to Skoda main dealers some time ago and found a decent VAG independent instead for the jobs I can't/won't tackle myself . Lower prices and far better service in my experience.

The final straw was the 'major service' scam with fixed servicing: I.e. you in effect pay for the fuel, air and pollen filters to be changed, but they only then actually change them if they're 'due'. If they're not due you're wasting your money.

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There is a young lad in our street with a 2006 diesel Octavia estate. No mechanical sympathy at all, revs it from cold, high revs in first to the end of the cul-de-sac etc.

 

The turbo whistle on it is so loud you wouldn't believe me. I thought to myself when he bought it that the turbo was due to pop any day.

 

Two years later, same driving style, same loud police siren and it is still running so a knackered turbo can last well! 

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Haha brilliant. To be honest I drive spiritedly - but I don't rag it from cold and I go easy when I know I am approaching home.

 

The majority of the journeys I do are to/from work - 5 miles. It's not the right car for that kind of commute, but it does get a good run about 90 mile round trip once a fortnight, and whatever else social stuff I'm doing.

 

One other thought, I've just put the VAGCOM on it - and no mention of the fuel pump. Should it have said something if there was indeed a problem?

 

A garage I rang in Cardiff this morning (Deutsch Teknik Auto) were even dubious that they would detect a fuel pump failure just by looking at an old fuel filter... I think I'll just hand over the car to them in the week and let them take a look.

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I have oil in my diesel and suspect the tandem pump has a failed oil seal. I will be interested to hear what you get told by the garage. FYI - a new pump is available on carparts4less for £185. If you are handy with spanners it is easy to fit. I might have to do mine soon. 

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The classic sign of a tandem pump failure on these is engine oil in the fuel, which is most noticeable when looking at the fuel filter element. It usually does not cause any obvious symptoms in the early stages which is why so many tandem pump failures do not get noticed until the filter is changed. The only reason I had mine investigated and replaced was that it was causing poor starting.

Unlike a common rail system PDs don't have any sort of fuel pressure sensor, or any way of monitoring fuel pump output, so tandem pump issues can never normally be picked up by the ECU or by a VCDS scan. The tandem pump is totally mechanical, it doesn't have any electrical connection at all. Mine was still giving a clean bill of health in VCDS even with a totally knackered tandem pump. The improvement in starting with mine is very noticeable with a new pump, it doesn't splutter like it used to.

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Regarding using an independent, after owning my car for some 6 years, I decided to do what many advise and found one. Sadly, I was put off when they couldnt diagnose a fault with the nearside headlight and although they did my servicing no problem, I was advised to go to a main dealer 'as they might have more info on the wiring' and of course, that resulted in a charge to hook up to the computers to fond the fault before they did anything as they wouldn't use the independents print out.

Good luck either way.

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The garage did state that there was oil in the old fuel filter, so could well be a dud tandem pump. Thanks for the info on the VCDS not picking it up - makes sense.

 

I have two glow plugs knackered in my engine as well - so sometimes there is some hesitation to start, and I put that down to that. It doesn't splutter as such.

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My Skoda dealer had three goes at solving my intermittent starting problem over the years, right from the car being two and a bit years old, and each time said 'nothing wrong with it'. The indy I used found it straight away the first time they looked at the car. I was quite annoyed that I've been putting up with this issue for 4+ years when it should really have been spotted and fixed under warranty.

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I am surprised that the only symptom of something failing is when the fuel filter is changed. To be honest, the fuel filter was not changed at its last service in 2012 - and before that I hadn't serviced it - it was done in 2010 by previous owner, where camblet etc was done. Maybe it's been like this for 2/3 years then?

 

The other thing I've noticed is that the consumption is a LOT better than it was, unless this morning I was really dawdling into work - normally the computer displays 45MPG, this morning, without really trying too hard it was showing 61.

 

I'll have a better idea of it when I drive up to my fathers next - he's a decent drive away.

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The tandem pump is really only a glorified lift pump, they don't work at particularly high pressure, so even when leaking internally they can still provide enough fuel flow to run the engine more or less normally. I suspect the only reason mine was having starting issues was that the pump was leaking so badly it was allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank overnight. Mine was always much worse when the car was parked facing uphill on a steep slope.

If you are having no symptoms yet it's perhaps tempting to leave it, but I would be concerned about the used engine oil being fed into the fuel. It can apparently begin to seriously clog up the injectors over time.

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Well I've no issue with replacing the fuel pump - at the end of the day it is the only "surprise" we've had that we need to look at resolving.

 

My car is parked all the time pointing upwards on the drive adn never really had an issue trying to start it. But yes , I don't want oil in my fuel - that's ultimately no good.

 

Next step is to get it looked at by another garage and get their take on it.

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