Another steering issue....

[FinnVrs]

Was this pump repaired one or what was story on it.
And which one you have TRW or KOYOS pump

[dm222]

Was this pump repaired one or what was story on it.

And which one you have TRW or KOYOS pump

 

TRW. The pump was new.

[FinnVrs]

Yes, the pump should be tight and not move, and the three electrical connector correctly attached and contact surfaces clean.

Because now that you mentioned the situation that the steering wheel so heavy that almost impossible to drive the car.

It seems that the pump cant  get  electricity at all.

I do not know where you bought this part but I think it has a minimum of one year warranty.

In your case, I would take this part out and exchange the time it SHOULD be the warranty valid


Whether there will be an electric wire electricity, it is the middle connector to the pump. It can of course find out the VCDS program and OBD cable  if someone could help provide. So you do not have to take your local Skoda service center. It would see the rotating pump at all and how much to the pump to get it or get it any at all.

It is now important to know that the electric current should come to the end of the cable which is connected to the pump to the middle connector.
Then the break in the supply of electricity is there inside the pump!  IF the correct voltage of comes to the end of the connector




 

[dm222]

Yes, the pump should be tight and not move, and the three electrical connector correctly attached and contact surfaces clean.

Because now that you mentioned the situation that the steering wheel so heavy that almost impossible to drive the car.

It seems that the pump cant  get  electricity at all.

I do not know where you bought this part but I think it has a minimum of one year warranty.

In your case, I would take this part out and exchange the time it SHOULD be the warranty valid

Whether there will be an electric wire electricity, it is the middle connector to the pump. It can of course find out the VCDS program and OBD cable  if someone could help provide. So you do not have to take your local Skoda service center. It would see the rotating pump at all and how much to the pump to get it or get it any at all.

It is now important to know that the electric current should come to the end of the cable which is connected to the pump to the middle connector.

Then the break in the supply of electricity is there inside the pump!  IF the correct voltage of comes to the end of the connector

 

 

 

Thank you for your answer.

 

The fault is this one:

 

00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) 

30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

 

What do you see there? Looks like it's the pump, right?

 

[FinnVrs]

For  me it looks like a

Thank you for your answer.

 

The fault is this one:

 

00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250) 
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

 

What do you see there? Looks like it's the pump, right?

 

For me, the table shows that both the electricity and the V30 and v15 is ok.
So we can say that the electricity will be up to the pump. So fuses are ok.

I think that even if the sensor G250 would be broken pump should work with the default values ​​at about 1800rpm etc..Ja the car would have to be able to reasonably drive. Although Ross-tech site also provides 00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus some suggestions that is broke put i do not think so. Chek wiring sensor to pump one moore time

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00816

Now it is so that the pump does not rotate any rpm, so the steering wheel is REALLY heavy to turn as previously already said.

 The pump MUST BE A WARRANTY because it has been running for only 81 hours !!

This chart does not, unfortunately, displayed works will G250 sensor as the steering wheel is not moved at all when that listing is done.

But I agree with you that the problem is the pump itself because there will be electric, as well as V15 and V30 both of which you show to be ok.

And why do I say that the pump has been broken because the pump motor status is OFF and the pump motor speed is ZERO.

And for this reason also not Pump speed the actual speed is ZERO.

And all so when this pump run normal default RPM it shud taken least few AMPS but no it shows zero too!

And when i look Grop B and time stamp 4.80  You have lost everything  else but v15 and v30 still on.

So this i just my opinion but what i try to do  is replace this pump another one....








 

[dm222]

For  me it looks like a

For me, the table shows that both the electricity and the V30 and v15 is ok.

So we can say that the electricity will be up to the pump. So fuses are ok.

I think that even if the sensor G250 would be broken pump should work with the default values ​​at about 1800rpm etc..Ja the car would have to be able to reasonably drive. Although Ross-tech site also provides 00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250)

30-00 - Open or Short to Plus some suggestions that is broke put i do not think so. Chek wiring sensor to pump one moore time

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00816

Now it is so that the pump does not rotate any rpm, so the steering wheel is REALLY heavy to turn as previously already said.

 The pump MUST BE A WARRANTY because it has been running for only 81 hours !!

This chart does not, unfortunately, displayed works will G250 sensor as the steering wheel is not moved at all when that listing is done.

But I agree with you that the problem is the pump itself because there will be electric, as well as V15 and V30 both of which you show to be ok.

And why do I say that the pump has been broken because the pump motor status is OFF and the pump motor speed is ZERO.

And for this reason also not Pump speed the actual speed is ZERO.

And all so when this pump run normal default RPM it shud taken least few AMPS but no it shows zero too!

And when i look Grop B and time stamp 4.80  You have lost everything  else but v15 and v30 still on.

So this i just my opinion but what i try to do  is replace this pump another one....

 

 

 

Good analisys, I think the same. The pump status is ON after I started the car (look at 5.0 seconds), but the speed always stays at ZERO.

 

The wiring from the pump to the sensor G250 was replaced, This was my first though but didn't made any differente. 

The sensor is always at 0.0ºs. It shows no voltage at the sensor (this measure is blank).

 

Today the error 00816 in the sensor disappeared, now I don't have any error but the light is still on and the steering is very very very heavy.

 

My concern now is to find out the cause to this premature failure.

 

  1 - The mechanic who replaced the cable told me that the pump support has one of the three arms broken (I believe it's the one between the number 10 and 9). 

 

 

  2 - Also at the time I noticed this problem for the first time I was testing my starter motor and started the car like 4 ou 5 times in a row.... Could this burn the pump?

 

Thank you!

Edited 25 June, 2015 by dm222

[FinnVrs]

Good analisys, I think the same. The pump status is ON after I started the car (look at 5.0 seconds), but the speed always stays at ZERO.

 

The wiring from the pump to the sensor G250 was replaced, This was my first though but didn't made any differente. 

The sensor is always at 0.0ºs. It shows no voltage at the sensor (this measure is blank).

 

Today the error 00816 in the sensor disappeared, now I don't have any error but the light is still on and the steering is very very very heavy.

 

My concern now is to find out the cause to this premature failure.

 

  1 - The mechanic who replaced the cable told me that the pump support has one of the three arms broken (I believe it's the one between the number 10 and 9). 

 

 

  2 - Also at the time I noticed this problem for the first time I was testing my starter motor and started the car like 4 ou 5 times in a row.... Could this burn the pump?

 

Thank you!

Anserw for this...- Also at the time I noticed this problem for the first time I was testing my starter motor and started the car like 4 ou 5 times in a row.... Could this burn the pump?   No it cant burn pump

My opinion ... remove the broken pump and go back to where you bought the part and you say that it is broken and you want a new one.

You can print a list of the fault code and thus to say that the fault is in the pump itself.

The pump itself takes large amounts of amps. Sometimes I looked at how much it takes amps, and at best it was about 70 amps. So no more time to waste, but the old and the new one into place.

And buy it from the pump bracket and repalce it too !!

I do not think that you will find a reason why the pump was broken.

I believe that the reason for the breakup was badly made component

 

[dm222]

For  me it looks like a

For me, the table shows that both the electricity and the V30 and v15 is ok.

So we can say that the electricity will be up to the pump. So fuses are ok.

I think that even if the sensor G250 would be broken pump should work with the default values ​​at about 1800rpm etc..Ja the car would have to be able to reasonably drive. Although Ross-tech site also provides 00816 - Power Steering Sensor (G250)

30-00 - Open or Short to Plus some suggestions that is broke put i do not think so. Chek wiring sensor to pump one moore time

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00816

Now it is so that the pump does not rotate any rpm, so the steering wheel is REALLY heavy to turn as previously already said.

 The pump MUST BE A WARRANTY because it has been running for only 81 hours !!

This chart does not, unfortunately, displayed works will G250 sensor as the steering wheel is not moved at all when that listing is done.

But I agree with you that the problem is the pump itself because there will be electric, as well as V15 and V30 both of which you show to be ok.

And why do I say that the pump has been broken because the pump motor status is OFF and the pump motor speed is ZERO.

And for this reason also not Pump speed the actual speed is ZERO.

And all so when this pump run normal default RPM it shud taken least few AMPS but no it shows zero too!

And when i look Grop B and time stamp 4.80  You have lost everything  else but v15 and v30 still on.

So this i just my opinion but what i try to do  is replace this pump another one....

 

 

Two pumps in 4 months, there must be a reason :(

The second pump was new, not used :(

[FinnVrs]

well this is the line where i can help.
If everythin else is ok  i mean you got righ fuses right places and everything seems ok i cannot undesrtand why its broken so fast.

Well what i do if i  have same  situation....Well anyway i STILL goe and replase new pump on it.  AND i all so take contact TRW company and wrote a letter and ask for why this **** dosent work longer than 2 months...

I bought 3 months ago used ones for my car because i got same situations. My one is 2005 Koyos and its made all ready about 3000 hours so i really cant  undestand your wery ****ty luck on your ones TRW ****.

 

I hope you get fast right anserws and get new pump and told all us what F..K was wrong on it!


 

[dm222]

well this is the line where i can help.

If everythin else is ok  i mean you got righ fuses right places and everything seems ok i cannot undesrtand why its broken so fast.

Well what i do if i  have same  situation....Well anyway i STILL goe and replase new pump on it.  AND i all so take contact TRW company and wrote a letter and ask for why this **** dosent work longer than 2 months...

I bought 3 months ago used ones for my car because i got same situations. My one is 2005 Koyos and its made all ready about 3000 hours so i really cant  undestand your wery ****ty luck on your ones TRW ****.

 

I hope you get fast right anserws and get new pump and told all us what F..K was wrong on it!

 

 

Don't understand why they make electric pumps, they are ****

Maybe they are more efficient but you end up paying so much in repairs than the fuel they would consume...

 

Next car I will make sure I don't buy a VAG... I will look for a car without a electric pump

Edited 27 June, 2015 by dm222

[TMB]

Next car I will make sure I don't buy a VAG... I will look for a car without a electric pump

 

I think a lot of cars have electric PAS pumps these days. I know my mate's 2003 Astra does.

[FinnVrs]

I think a lot of cars have electric PAS pumps these days. I know my mate's 2003 Astra does.

Sorry off topic..

Yep thats true and what is even worst... these days you can get car which have a full electricity powe steering motor,,,Its not getting any better...LOL and full electricity hand break system etc ..LOL

[dm222]

Sorry off topic..

Yep thats true and what is even worst... these days you can get car which have a full electricity powe steering motor,,,Its not getting any better...LOL and full electricity hand break system etc ..LOL

 

Also I've noticed that some water get's in around the pump location last sunday when I washed the car... But I suppose that this component is made to be water resistent, is that true?

The mechanics can't find the reason to the premature failure.

I still believe that it was derivated to the consusecutive starts (testing stater motor) because the pump needs a lot of energy and great effort to start... Maybe something inside the pump didn't support that effort.

Edited 1 July, 2015 by dm222

[FinnVrs]

When the car is stationary and steering wheel as well. So the pump electricity consumed by the not very big. Consumption time is approximately 3 Ah, but if you turn the steering wheel when the car is stationary consumption may have mentioned earlier about 70Ah.

And if the time you start the car as most of the electricity goes to start-up moottrille, so there is not the power steering pump was nothing big electricity.

And that electricity voltage drops too low also goes so that if the supply of electricity is a problem then the ECU will begin to remove the electrical equipment turned off.

So that MAY be the reason that you have a bad battery and charger when not turn on the power steering pump.

In fact, I do not believe the claim that the pump had broken down because you have turned on the car several times in a row.

The reason why is not working now remains unclear, but as I said it I'd put the pump back to where you bought it and changed it later.

The only way to find out would be the opening of the pump and then perhaps find the problem. But because the pump is new so I do not recommend it because you do not vältämättä after the opening of the new pump warranty.

[dm222]

When the car is stationary and steering wheel as well. So the pump electricity consumed by the not very big. Consumption time is approximately 3 Ah, but if you turn the steering wheel when the car is stationary consumption may have mentioned earlier about 70Ah.

And if the time you start the car as most of the electricity goes to start-up moottrille, so there is not the power steering pump was nothing big electricity.

And that electricity voltage drops too low also goes so that if the supply of electricity is a problem then the ECU will begin to remove the electrical equipment turned off.

So that MAY be the reason that you have a bad battery and charger when not turn on the power steering pump.

In fact, I do not believe the claim that the pump had broken down because you have turned on the car several times in a row.

The reason why is not working now remains unclear, but as I said it I'd put the pump back to where you bought it and changed it later.

The only way to find out would be the opening of the pump and then perhaps find the problem. But because the pump is new so I do not recommend it because you do not vältämättä after the opening of the new pump warranty.

 

 

Is the pump water resitant? Because I noticed some water in the pump location the last time I washed the car!

[dm222]

I forgot to tell that I needed a new pump, was replaced last friday.

Also the new pump is a lot quieter.

The other pump made a whining noise all the time, the new one I can't almost hear it.

I believe that it was related to the broken support. The pump has 3 supports but the old one was fixated with only 2.

[FinnVrs]

Is the pump water resitant? Because I noticed some water in the pump location the last time I washed the car!

Well it is quite well made it so i dont think that is problem.

 

[FinnVrs]

So your problem is solved :clap:

[dm222]

So your problem is solved :clap:

 

For the next 4 or 5 months yes, but I believe it will happen again since they didn't discovered the cause...

Two pumps burned in 4 months, something is wrong :(

 

And I have 850€ (wich here in Portugal is almost a month salary!) less in my wallet  . Still waiting for the waranty answer, if the old one is covered by waranty they will return the 850€.

Edited 6 July, 2015 by dm222

[SKYHAWK]

that's expensive I been selling them £85/95 each

[dm222]

that's expensive I been selling them £85/95 each

 

Unfurnatly here car parts cost the double or triple...

Also it's a new pump

Edited 6 July, 2015 by dm222

[SKYHAWK]

Unfurnatly here car parts cost the double or triple...

Also it's a new pump

I bought a brandnew 1 off ebay for £150 with free post u just got to look about

[dm222]

So your problem is solved :clap:

 

 

I bought a brandnew 1 off ebay for £150 with free post u just got to look about

 

 

My steering in the morning seems a bit lighter than at afternoon or after a little trip like 5 or 6 miles....

Do you notice something like this?

I am in my 3 steering pump and I'm a little paranoic about this...

Thank you!

[dm222]

Anserw for this...- Also at the time I noticed this problem for the first time I was testing my starter motor and started the car like 4 ou 5 times in a row.... Could this burn the pump?   No it cant burn pump

My opinion ... remove the broken pump and go back to where you bought the part and you say that it is broken and you want a new one.

You can print a list of the fault code and thus to say that the fault is in the pump itself.

The pump itself takes large amounts of amps. Sometimes I looked at how much it takes amps, and at best it was about 70 amps. So no more time to waste, but the old and the new one into place.

And buy it from the pump bracket and repalce it too !!

I do not think that you will find a reason why the pump was broken.

I believe that the reason for the breakup was badly made component

 

 

 

Actually just tested and my new pump has at least 38 amps at start. It makes sense since the pump goes from 0 to 1254 in less than one second...

Also drived around town for 5 minutes and the other maximum was 30 amps

 

 

I won't loose any more time, if the pump breaks again I will sell the car for parts... Also won't analise more data because this is making me crazy...

 

 

Just one last question:

After driving for a while my steering seems harder, is this normal? I mean I know it's normal the steering being hard at high speeds but after driving a while my steering is a bit harder than when cold even at low speeds.

 

 

And thank you FinnVrs for your support.

Edited 11 July, 2015 by dm222