stain on wheels - how do i get rid?

[laff82]

to follow on from the fiesta detail thread, but a specific question so will ask here. There is the odd stain on the fiesta alloys which does want to shift.

Did the wheels with trix iron and tar 2in1 a week ago, looked like the melty mess that it should as it works with the brake dust, grime and tar coming off. Agitated and then gave it a second go but a few stains remained. Standard car shampoo or sf & pressure or APC also havent made a dent. Any ideas on what it could be and how best to tackle? I assume a commercial dedicated wheel wash at at strong concentrate would be the next step? but dont have any of that (yet). Or clay/polish.

thanks for any advice

Simon

[philbes]

I have removed similar stains with a clay bar.

[littleade]

A slightly different problem but what I did may be an option if the clay bar doesn't work. I removed a load of fine scratches from my black neptunes with farecla paint restorer applied with a mf cloth before I applied carbon collective ceramic sealer. HTH

[Dinski]

SRP worked for me.

[allyst170]

Depends on finish and effort required. Easiest and best would be to get the kerb marks repaired and have the stain removed/painted over. My wife has same wheels on her fiesta and a similar repair was £25.

[samuir1974]

SRP worked for me.

 

+1 for the AG-SRP method when i've done alloys in this state 

[ChrisRs]

As said, a little polish on a MF cloth and rub gently with your finger

Then reseal

[NorthernMonkey]

Because it's in a tight area, try soaking a cotton bud in your Trix solution & agitate. I had a similar problem on my mates taxi, we found it was rust from the brake calliper that had dripped on it. I've not used Trix so can't comment on how powerful it is, I used iron x & it worked a treat. Good luck.

Edited 3 September, 2014 by NorthernMonkey

[Sparkly]

Because it's in a tight area, try soaking a cotton bud in your Trix solution & agitate. I had a similar problem on my mates taxi, we found it was rust from the brake calliper that had dripped on it. I've not used Trix so can't comment on how powerful it is, I used iron x & it worked a treat. Good luck.

 

IME Trix works 90% as well as Iron-X and about 40% as good as Tar-X but in one spray.  Makes for a good wheel cleaner.

[darrylg]

I use a cloth with generic degreaser.

Don't leave it on there for too long.

[ChrisRs]

Any success Simon?

[laff82]

Evening All

thanks for the advice above, been a little busy this week so havent had chance after work, so saturday is the day all being well. A few options to go through. Does SRP expire? found half a bottle in the remnants of my brothers autoglym kit. Hes not used in must be 5 years to wont miss it.

IME Trix works 90% as well as Iron-X and about 40% as good as Tar-X but in one spray.  Makes for a good wheel cleaner.

So based on the above, Do you use standalone products still for decontamination, if so is it the tar performance thats lets the product down.

So would a product specified as a wheel cleaner branded do anything better different to this? I assume they would be a little cheaper when diluted. and probably smell better but is that it? Is there any circumstance where both would be used on the same wheel?

[laff82]

Depends on finish and effort required. Easiest and best would be to get the kerb marks repaired and have the stain removed/painted over. My wife has same wheels on her fiesta and a similar repair was £25.

its the parents car, throwing a couple of quid (and the rest) at products that I can use in future and build my skills is fine by me, but they can pay for their own repairs.  I have more important things to pay for  :beer: 

[samuir1974]

 Does SRP expire? found half a bottle in the remnants of my brothers autoglym kit. Hes not used in must be 5 years to wont miss it.

 

 

The SRP should be ok - it may have separated/split over time - will need a REALLY good shake-up.

It will very much depend on the storage conditions and temperatures though.

 

For alloy wheel duty.... worth trying to revive that bottle - IMO.

[ChrisRs]

AGSRP does not appear to be affected by age or temperature, but it will need a good shake

Ive had some in the garage, experiencing ALL temperature ranges, for 10 years or more, and its still useable...not that I would..LOL

Personally I dont like the stuff, the older formula was very dusty and heavy with fillers

It will possibly be OK on alloys, but there are other cleaner polishes that do the same job...only better IME

[samuir1974]

Beg to differ - i've seen temperature related behaviour with AG-SRP in my time.

Most recently with the newer formula, which came with SWMBO's Seat Exeo kit.

 

 

Only helping out if OP wants to use product already in hand without a purchase! 

[Sparkly]

So based on the above, Do you use standalone products still for decontamination, if so is it the tar performance thats lets the product down.

So would a product specified as a wheel cleaner branded do anything better different to this? I assume they would be a little cheaper when diluted. and probably smell better but is that it? Is there any circumstance where both would be used on the same wheel?

 

Nail - Head,  the tar-performance is significantly less good than a stand alone something to do with the formulation, TarX is a very good tar remover but there are plenty of others.

 

I would look (for wheels) at using a nono-acid wheel cleaner like VP Bilberry or Autobrite's Very Cherry to remove the majority of dirt etc and then use my decon products like IronX, TarX, TRIX as a follow up step to shift the embedded brake dust and tar spots.  Probably the more effective and cost effective way to go for me.

 

Some companies offer a full whack all in one product like the Sonax Xtreme Wheel cleaner which removes dirt, ferrous particles all in one step, but the first hit of it will probably just react to the surface break dust and then you will need to respray and agitate, not that cost effective.

 

All of the iron removers work on a chemical reaction which is finite based on the amount of chemical and iron to react together, you can turn all that surface brake dust purple and go oooooooH! but for me you are just wasting money, 5 litres of a good dilutable wheel cleaner will last you an age unless you are valeting cars for a living.

[ChrisRs]

I havent ..thats why I posted it

Good luck with the new formula..sounds like it is affected

Simon has the old formula.... It was intimated

I wasnt refering to the recent Formula Steve...If you read it properly you will see I was talking about the old formula

However...hair splitting again.......No doubt some experimentation on behalf of Simon will see a good result

Im sure he'll let us know

[samuir1974]

No hair splitting - just trying top help OP make progress without spending too many pennies     

[ChrisRs]

Its..'to help '

[samuir1974]

Thanks for that me old mucker! Missing teaching already!!!  :clap: 

Hurry up and organise the curry so i can enjoy the banter in person....

[NorthernMonkey]

I havent ..thats why I posted it

Good luck with the new formula..sounds like it is affected

Simon has the old formula.... It was intimated

I wasnt refering to the recent Formula Steve...If you read it properly you will see I was talking about the old formula

However...hair splitting again.......No doubt some experimentation on behalf of Simon will see a good result

Im sure he'll let us know

 

 

I believe it should be haven't & that's & wasn't LOL

[NorthernMonkey]

Anyway, back on topic. Good luck to the OP & look forward to seeing the results.

Edited 5 September, 2014 by NorthernMonkey

[Sparkly]

Just looked at the original pic, looks like the wheel is kerbed a little in the vicinity of the staining.

 

Just wanted to warn you off using excessively strong/acidic products as it may have an adverse affect to the area where the lacquer is broken.

 

As the pedants are out in force today - I am only mentioning this because you mentioned "commercial dedicated wheel wash at strong concentrate"

 

Good luck and look forward to a follow up with pics of lovely clean wheels, hopefully

[laff82]

Lively in here this morning! thanks as always for the guidance.

I'll risk the SRP after a good shake, its not like I'll be applying it to the entire car. I assume the abrasives will be present even if the formula has spoiled, but I'm not a petrochemist so could well be talking out of my hat?

I've also got the liquid gold (paintcleaner-light polish) used for the rest of the car, and if they and the spot hit of Trix doesnt work then i know where to come. There was mention of clay earlier in the thread, which I dont currently have, am I right in thinking if the steps above dont work than the clay probably wont?

Thanks for the warning on the Acid type cleaners, I had meant one of the acid free ones just spot applied and agitated at the high end of the recommended concentrations, but very much appreciate your diligence all the same.