4th turbo just blown, 208,000 miles - time to decide! Help!?!?!

[bickie]

Briskodians...

 

Ok, so here's the situtation - I have a 2006 (BLT) Fabia vRS mk1 (from new).

 

Four turbos in and I'm fed up with paying Skoda £1500 for another one which will only last 50k!

 

Having had my current turbo inspected independently, overspeed was the cause of the failure.

 

I've been recommended to upgrade to a PD150 turbo, and get a remap, but there are some issues:

 

1) Because I'm BLT I'll need the EGR deleting.

2) My standard fit intercooler and top hose are both damaged (which probably didn't help!).

 

So I'm looking at options. It's not worth spending ££££££££££££ on due to its age, but I can get the turbo / intercooler for around £530. My problem is the top hose / delete.

 

I've been looking at Darkside's EGR delete and Samco's hose - I presume these would get on fine together (I have no option but to buy a standard side mount intercooler due to budget unfortunately!).

 

Any thoughts / opinions - would this work?

 

A local remap co has said they 'may' be able to map out the engine management light issue on the EGR delete...if not, I see that Jabbasport guarantee it, so at least I'll have a car to make the 100 mile trip to them! (Unless anyone knows someone who can help in North Kent!!).

 

FInally, has anyone settled on an opinion on whether or not the EML is an MOT failure???

 

I really don't want to send my Fab to the scrapyard - help!!!

[vRS Joe]

There are vendors in the classified section offering EGR Deletes at reasonable prices.

You will need a re-map to eliminate the light on the dash. Use a reputable firm for this, eg Jabbasport as you say. Get the EGR cooler removed too.

Is the intercooler itself goosed? They can be cleaned if it's just bunged up. You can get superior aftermarket pipe kits for the standard SMIC. Get the elephant hose mod done if you've not already, really cheap mod that will keep your intake and inter cooler from getting bunged up.

As for turbos try x man. He has the Garrett turbo with pd170 internals for a good price. Will push 190hp or so without a FMIC.

Good work on pushing the old girl to that mileage, hopefully many more miles to come! Joe

[faboka vrs]

For a budget go for a stock gt1749vb.

If you want a little more go for a gtb1756vk. Little work getting it fitted with downpipe and boost pipes. And run it low boost for the SMIC.

[sepulchrave]

Why do you have to delete the EGR/ASV please?

[Toxicvrs]

Why do you have to delete the EGR/ASV please?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/303459-pd150-turbo/

[sepulchrave]

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/303459-pd150-turbo/

 

Yes, I've read that too, if you read post #8 which admittedly is hidden further down, fletch says he didn't have to blank the EGR on his BLT with the PD150 which is why I asked the question!

[NathanG]

Why are you only averaging 50k on a turbo.  How are you driving it?

[mannyo]

Why are you only averaging 50k on a turbo.  How are you driving it?

Thinking the same thing, something must be wrong. If the car is remapped, maybe poor map is to blame.

[mattbvRS]

Agreed with the above, I would suspect an underlying issue if you've gone through 4 turbos in the cars lifetime. I know the KKK units aren't the most reliable but they should do decent mileage if looked after and treated with some mechanical sympathy (regular oil changes and letting them warm up/cool down)

 

Did you find a reason for the over speed on your last turbo fail?

 

It's all well upgrading to a stronger unit but you don't want to be forking out all that money for it to go again if there is an issue somewhere else causing them to fail.  

[fletch101]

Yes, I've read that too, if you read post #8 which admittedly is hidden further down, fletch says he didn't have to blank the EGR on his BLT with the PD150 which is why I asked the question!

I had pd150 and did not have to blank the egr. although I did eventually make a blanking plate for it because I didnt want my intercooler pipework getting sooty lol. but will work fine all connected

[Tech1e]

I'd think twice about going the hybrid route on a 200k engine unless it's had a very thorough health check. Especially if you are eating turbos anyhow.

[vindaloo]

Overspeed shouldn't really be possible on a stock healthy car..

Decat and freeing up the exhaust can cause problems. As can boost leaks.

 

J.

[NathanG]

Im currently on 140k on original turbo. You may need to look at an underlying issue, possibly driving style, type of driving you do i.e short/long runs, warming up, cooling down, servicing etc. i think anything could be possible but a turbo lasting 50k isnt normal dude.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bickie]

Hi all - cheers for the replies...here's the situation:

 

My intercooler is knackered - the plastic socket that the top boost pipe goes into is cracked, and it's held in by a few self tappers & cable ties - I've got loads of oil everywhere leaking.

 

Am thinking now that for a car with 208k, is an upgrade really worth it?

 

Would all agree that my damaged intercooler and boost leak could have caused the turbo to blow?

 

As for driving style - I do 30k a year round the M25 in rush hour, I normally have the cruise on at 50mph...I do enjoy the odd weekend workout, but 80-85% of the time it's in 6th and cruising (journey is 50 miles each way, so no stop/starts). I've had the car from new, it's not had a remap or any mod work done at all.

 

As for oil/filter changes (air + oil) - they're done every 10k religiously - never missed one. I've been told to switch from Valvoline Durablend semi-synthetic to Castrol Edge fully; apparently this is better suited, albeit more £££!

 

Am thinking to save $$$ then, replace intercooler and top pipe, fit stock 130 turbo and job done?!??!

 

Cheers guys - I really want to keep the car going, the engine and gearbox still sound as good as ever!!

[bickie]

Why do you have to delete the EGR/ASV please?

 

 

sepulchrave - to answer your question, simply because Midland Turbo (who looked at my dead turbo) told me I had to !

[Bogwoppit]

 

Would all agree that my damaged intercooler and boost leak could have caused the turbo to blow?

 

 

Yes, a boost leak can cause the turbo to work harder to meet the requested boost.

Fit a new intercooler, turbo and check all your hoses for boost leaks and you should be good to go.

[sepulchrave]

sepulchrave - to answer your question, simply because Midland Turbo (who looked at my dead turbo) told me I had to !

 

Ok, but it ain't necessarily so.

 

 

Would all agree that my damaged intercooler and boost leak could have caused the turbo to blow?

 

As for oil/filter changes (air + oil) - they're done every 10k religiously - never missed one. I've been told to switch from Valvoline Durablend semi-synthetic to Castrol Edge fully; apparently this is better suited, albeit more £££!

 

Am thinking to save $$$ then, replace intercooler and top pipe, fit stock 130 turbo and job done?!??!

 

Yes, that's what's causing the overspeeding.

 

Oil is not a contributory factor to these failures, stick with what you've been using.

 

I would say to do exactly that, just replace what needs replacing and keep on trucking.

[bickie]

Ok, but it ain't necessarily so.

 

 

 

Yes, that's what's causing the overspeeding.

 

Oil is not a contributory factor to these failures, stick with what you've been using.

 

I would say to do exactly that, just replace what needs replacing and keep on trucking.

 

Understood re: the turbo!

 

Sounds like a plan! Thanks sepulchrave!

 

Midland are quoting £358 for the turbo, I have got new standard SMIC £150, and I was thinking the Samco pipe kit which is on ebay for around £270. I presume it wouldn't hurt to get the garage to clean out the EGR valve whilst they're there?

 

Interesting on the oil, was told off by the RAC (ex-Skoda Assist!) chap for using semi instead of fully synthetic - but the Valvoline has got the right VW spec...

 

Let's hope this one gets past 250k then!

 

Nice one, cheers!

[bickie]

Yes, a boost leak can cause the turbo to work harder to meet the requested boost.

Fit a new intercooler, turbo and check all your hoses for boost leaks and you should be good to go.

 

Cheers bogwoppit - nice one.

[sepulchrave]

Interesting on the oil, was told off by the RAC (ex-Skoda Assist!) chap for using semi instead of fully synthetic - but the Valvoline has got the right VW spec...

 

He's a prat, the fully synthetic is for long service interval oil changes, since you get yours done every 10k it's irrelevant, I really wouldn't recommend changing to long interval servicing at this stage in the cars life!

[SEVrs]

I have an 07 reg BLT and have done the EGR delete.  You don't need to fork out for an EGR delete kit...waste of cash imho.  Just buy a blanking plate for about a fiver, fit that, clean the EGR valve and the anti stutter valve and have a re-map as you'll need this to delete the EGR software coding otherwise it'll throw fault lights/codes.  The EGR replacement pipes look cool but there's nothing wrong with retaining the EGR which will remain in the closed position and wont affect air intake at all.  You could fit the 150 turbo and have a stage 1 map.  Should cost no ore than £250 for a decent map/EGR delete, so if you can get a turbo and intercooler that cheap, its worth doing.  I guess that the cheapest route would be to keep it standard though (130 recon turbo) and new intercooler and no EGR delete/remap.

Edited 8 September, 2014 by SEVrs

[Tech1e]

He's a prat, the fully synthetic is for long service interval oil changes, since you get yours done every 10k it's irrelevant, I really wouldn't recommend changing to long interval servicing at this stage in the cars life!

 

You can't run a UK spec Fabia vRS on LL anyhow.

 

However using the LL oil will do it no harm (as will running it on 506.00 semi oil), just costs a bit more.

[sepulchrave]

You can't run a UK spec Fabia vRS on LL anyhow.

 

However using the LL oil will do it no harm (as will running it on 506.00 semi oil), just costs a bit more.

 

I wasn't suggesting the LL oil would do any harm, but that changing the service regime at the this time of the engines life might. I'm not as dumb as I look Tech1e, come on.

[Tech1e]

I wasn't suggesting the LL oil would do any harm, but that changing the service regime at the this time of the engines life might. I'm not as dumb as I look Tech1e, come on.

 

But you can't change the regime.

[KenONeill]

But you can't change the regime.

I wouldn't presume to argue diagnostics with you, but this is semantics. Some people use the word "regime" in a way that includes oil type (like full mineral, full synthetic or semi-synth) rather than just mileage. I agree that the UK spec Furbie vRS doesn't have an oil condition sensor so can't run variable.