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Looking to buy a Mk2 VRS estate, any advice please?


broona

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Pre facelift check bodywork along the sills for rust and bubbling just above the stone chip paint.

 

Check history for cambelt change, and general servicing.

 

Check the spare wheel well for water (screenwash) from a popped pipe.

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Oh and the back wheels for sawtoothing, you need to get down on the ground and look right under, it's not obvious from just standing behind the car.

 

The TFSI is solid. I sold mine with 83k on the clock and it was still as sweet as the day I got it new. Emissions were actually going down not up and it wasn't an oil muncher either.

Rust on the sills prompted me to move the car on, plus a few annoying rattles on the inside. Road noise was starting to bother me too.

 

Plus I'd had it 7yr and wanted a change.

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I got an ex reps car. Very neat and tidy inside and out. Full service and maintenance history from Lex leasing.

At 60,000 miles it was still tight, gearbox in particular. Felt like it had driven steadily up and down the motorway all its life.

It came through one of the car supermarkets. No hassle, no fuss. Anything I pointed out, they sorted,changed or renewed. Not much in the way of part ex, but I was too lazy to try a private sale.

A properly serviced PD engined car will do 100,000's of miles - plenty of taxi drivers on here to testify to that. Correct service procedures are far more important than mileage. IMHO.

I changed the DMF and clutch when I had the Shark remap. It was starting to be rattly/vibey at low revs. The DMF is really the only thing I would rather not have to deal with, but so many cars have them now.

Some people find the seat bolster presses into their leg. I found tilting the cushion right down at the front sorted it for me. I have electric seats, apparently this is not so easy on cars with manual seats.

Read other current posts from people having problems with internet sellers/backstreet traders.

Good Luck

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