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Auxillary Light bracket


Llanigraham

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As well as fitting the wheel arch kit I fitted this today; and then removed it!

 

I've been looking at a way of fitting this set of Hella lights for some time and various ideas came to mind, so with some scrap alloy we had kicking around this has been "botched" together. 

 

Lights1_zpsc7d455e8.jpg

 

Lights4_zpsa5a641b5.jpg

 

Lights5_zps96d1a8f4.jpg

 

The lights aren't at the right angle but you get the idea. 

It is held on by the 2 screws that hold the number plate on and I am not happy about the security of that, at the moment. It is too wobbly and probably needs another screw on each leg, or bonding to the front bumper. 

 

More thought needed I think.

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By coincidence I was thinking about additional Yeti lighting as I was driving home today - I have 2 pair of Cibie Oscars in the loft, 2 driving and 2 spot.

 

When I had them on my Citroen BX, I managed to buy some very smart brackets for them and wondered if anything similar was available for the Yeti. I shall watch this thread with great interest

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I'm a tad surprised to see you doing this....only insofar as I could imagine yourself commenting, if someone else had done it, that Skoda's designers - and NCAP's testing department, and your insurers, are hardly to approve a piece of angled metal just above knee height waiting to inflict damage to an errant Welsh pedestrian who inadvertantly strayed into your path.

 

Bit TIC, I confess, but maybe an element of inadvisability about the whole affair?

 

On the other hand, I like the idea of those plastic jobbies round the wheelarch.

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:x

  :wall:

 

If I go ahead my insurance company will be informed.

Note, if!

 

Gyp,

The wiring is the difficult bit. You can't just splice a relay into the main beam circuit, like we used to do.

There has to be a special bit of electickery done, and someone else on the forum has made it for me.

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So why the unnecessary and aggressive and silly head banging thingies?

 

I 'd not have thought my comments rude or confrontational...yet you've done your usual thing and got all punchy.

 

I've said I thought it might not have been a good idea to consider a lump of angled metal on the front of the car but did say there was an element of TIC in the post.........but, no, you've got all ugly again.

 

Tell you what...I'll keep my mouth shut.  Will that pleaseyou?

Edited by oldstan
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The wiring is the difficult bit. You can't just splice a relay into the main beam circuit, like we used to do.

There has to be a special bit of electickery done, and someone else on the forum has made it for me.

 

Indeed - last time I had a relays set up with switches inside the car such that the lights were independently switchonandoffable and would only come on with main beam. I suspect the CANBUS system would mean that it's a lot more complicated than that now.

 

Still it was fun having 600W of halogen main beam (160W of dipped less so)

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Stan,

Do what ever you feel.

Those things are "smilies" and are there for FUN.

 

Do what ever you feel..........How Kind, Thank you.

 

If that's your sense of FUN.   ..... then consider my sense of humour unable to cope with it.

 

You must know that you've had countless scraps on all the forums you've joined...the signal box ones, the Landrover ones, the model train-set ones, etc etc.  You must love a ruckus.  You get reminded about your "sense of fun" on here yet you seem to want to scrap at the drop of a hat.

 

So thank you for your invitation to 'Do what ever you feel' .. I'll  not  rattle your cage and we'll settle to keep our respective distances.  Add me to your "ignore" list with pleasure.  It'll not keep me awake tonight.

Edited by oldstan
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Graham, all these months I have been waiting for an update to you fitting the Wheel arch kit and then you go and remove it!!!!!!! I hope you did not put adhesive on? What went wrong? I must admit not the easiest job in the world, but with a little bit of perseverance and Dr Pinballs guide in the Tech section you could have done it.

Tony

Sorry did not read other thread. Apologies

Edited by manxskoda
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I'm surprised they say that is legal to use, as steel tubular "front protection systems" were banned some years ago, and most insurance companies will not allow them. 

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Graham, all these months I have been waiting for an update to you fitting the Wheel arch kit and then you go and remove it!!!!!!! I hope you did not put adhesive on? What went wrong? I must admit not the easiest job in the world, but with a little bit of perseverance and Dr Pinballs guide in the Tech section you could have done it.

Tony

Sorry did not read other thread. Apologies

 

 
What?

Tony, I think the Fairies have got to you.

Lamps off, not kit!!

 

Something like this should work, I guess:

14K4013_big.jpg

 

005474_big.jpg

 

See my reply to Gyp.

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I'm surprised they say that is legal to use, as steel tubular "front protection systems" were banned some years ago, and most insurance companies will not allow them. 

 

http://www.autostylinguk.co.uk/content/content/Are-Bull-Bars-Legal/PCbullbars.html

 

I'm particularly interested with the line - "The bar has been crash tested to deem that in the event of a collision with a pedestrian, any injury caused will be reduced in comparison to a vehicle without a front bar" which seems to suggest that the car has to be safer (from the pedestrian's point of view)  with the bar fitted than without it

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http://www.autostylinguk.co.uk/content/content/Are-Bull-Bars-Legal/PCbullbars.html

 

I'm particularly interested with the line - "The bar has been crash tested to deem that in the event of a collision with a pedestrian, any injury caused will be reduced in comparison to a vehicle without a front bar" which seems to suggest that the car has to be safer (from the pedestrian's point of view)  with the bar fitted than without it

 

As said, I'm surprised they can say that. How a hard steel bar in front of a soft bumper can be safer I do not know?! At least my lamp bracket is behind the bumper.

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I realise you may not want to do this but can you drill into the top of the numberplate box out on the bumper itself and mount there? There is probably as reinforcing bar behind it to give some strength and was how I did it years ago on my nova ( damn did I really just admit that )

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Not something I really want to do, and from what I have seen it wouldn't actually be possible as the inside of the bumper is foam filled. 

 

I did it the same way on my first Freelander:

Freelanderfording2.jpg

 

Life was so much simpler even 10 years ago!!

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Interesting this.

 

Recently I've been driving my Yeti for the first time in complete darkness, and while the dipped beam of the bi-Xenons is great, I am a little disappointed by the main beam - they don't feel that much better than halogens on main beam IMHO.

 

There was a good thread on here a while ago from one of our Australian friends, who sucessfully fitted auxiliary lights to his Yeti....described how he solved the wiring issues.

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I find the complete opposite to previous post. On Island we have very little street lighting ( except for Town center and road junctions) and virtually all goes off at 12pm. I find the high-beam bi-xenons superb for night driving/early morning but the low beam does not seems to penetrate far enough in total darkness.Many a time you put them on high-beam and have to dip them for on-coming traffic.

Tony

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If you need more light why not mount one of these between the roofbars??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/42-240W-CREE-CURVED-LED-WORK-LIGHT-BAR-FLOOD-SPOT-COMBO-OFFROAD-UTE-4X4WD-288W-/301321432851?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4628282f13&vxp=mtr 

 

The higher you get the auxillary light the "more" light you get. And one more thing it´s out of the way if you hit a pedestrian or cyclist...  :p

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...the low beam does not seems to penetrate far enough in total darkness.Many a time you put them on high-beam and have to dip them for on-coming traffic.

 

That's normal though ?

 

I have read that some owners with xenon lights found they were set wrong from the factory, and the dipped beam fell well short of where it should do.

The dealers (or someone with VCDS) can correct the aim though.

I wonder if you've got this issue ?

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