Citigo Front Discs Replacement

[Taylor93]

When the Citigo was serviced back in August, the dealer informed me that the discs were slightly warped. I was aware of this as:

 

Wobbling/Juddering wheel under braking at speed

"Lurching" at low speeds with gentle braking (felt like someone was braking the letting off then braking again)

 

I decided the best way to do this was to replace the discs. However as the brakes were only 30% worn, I did not replace the brake pads. Therefore this guide only covers the replacement of the discs. However you may chose to do so.

 

Before i start this, Please do not touch your brakes if unsure of what you are doing and seek help if you wish to take this job on yourself. I will not accept responsibility for any accidents or damage caused while you are working on your brakes. This is how i did it, there maybe other ways to do it. I started on the offside then progressed onto the near side, please take note that some pictures may differ from which side of the vehicle they were taken.

 

I personally do not like to torque bolts when copper grease or fresh WD40 is applied. I have heard of WD40 being applied to bolts prior to being torqued and when the WD40 dries out, it essentially loosens the bolt to a lower torque. 

 

So Tools & Equipment:

1x Citigo

2 New discs. (Pads too but not covered in this guide)

Trolley Jack & Axle Stands + wooden blocks

Wheel Brace/Breaker Bar + 17mm Socket

Locking wheel nut adapter (if applicable)

Basic Socket set (including a short extension bar)

7mm Hex Bit

Torx 30 Bit

Flat blade screwdriver

Torque Wrench (capable of applying 30NM)

Torque Wrench (capable of applying 110NM)

Dead blow hammer

Wire/Coat hanger

Wire Brush

 

Consumables included:

Kitchen Roll/Clean rags

WD40

Brake Cleaner

Copper Grease

 

 

 

Step 1

Place your Citigo on a flat & level ground, capable of being jacked on. Handbrake on, I tend to leave it in 1st too.

 

Remove the bolt caps and crack loose all 4 wheel bolts

 

Step 2

Jack up the car, I use a trolley jack with a block of wood to protect the seal. I then fitted the Axle stand (again with a wooden block) on the "donut mound" as seen behind the arch liner below. I am led to believe this is the jacking point when using a 2 post car lift.

 

 

Step 3

Remove Wheel, you should then be left with this. At this point I then loosened (do not remove yet!) the Torx 30 Disc retaining screw, this is just personal preference. 

 

 

Step 4

Then reach behind the caliper and remove the two guide pin covers, circled in Red. then unscrew the two Guide pins, (7mm Hex bit here)

 

then remove the two pins (excuse blurred picture) bottom one then top one

 

 

Step 5

Then with both guide pins removed, remove the caliper, pivoting it about the bottom of the caliper/carrier and then lifting upwards. Once removed, do not leave the caliper to hang on it own, avoid putting any load on the brake hose. using wire I tied mine so it was hanging from the suspension strut. Depending on wear the calipers may need to be rewound slightly so that the brake pads clear any lip on the disc. Luckily i was able to get away with wiggling the caliper laterally which then allowed the pads to clear the small lip on the disc.

 

 

Step 6

Now with the caliper out of the way, remove the Torx 30 retaining screw. Then remove the disc. My disc needed some persuasion with the dead blow hammer, striking the disc/wheel mating surface. With the disc removed I then cleaned the hub/disc mating surface with a wire brush, to aid future replacement of discs I applied a thin layer of copper grease, Do Not leave any copper grease in the wheel bolt threads!

 

 

Step 7

Once the cleaned, prepare your new disc. Clean it with brake cleaner and clean rags/kitchen roll to ensure that there are no traces of packing oils left on the surface of the disc. I focused on the inner brake surface as the outer can be cleaned with the disc fitted to the hub. Fit the disc and secure it in place with the Torx 30 Disc retaining screw.

 

 

 

Step 8

Now before refitting the caliper I applied Copper Grease to the brake carrier, this was to lubricate the movement of the pads against the carriers, see the red spots on the carrier on the picture above. Once that has been done I also cleaned and greased the Caliper guide pins. Do not apply copper grease on the threads of the guide pins. I also removed the pads from the caliper and cleaned the calipers inside surfaces followed by refitting the pads, you may chose to replace the pads now but i did not I gave the pads a "key" with some emery cloth. Then fitting the caliper is the reverse of removal (good old haynes), see picture on step 5 . With it aligned with the carrier, I then refitted the guide pins, torqued to 28NM. Dont forget the guide pin covers.

 

 

Step 9

I gave the disc one last clean to ensure no copper grease made its way onto the disc (give it a spin too). I applied a small amount of copper grease to the Disc/Wheel mating surface (to aid future removal) Then refit the wheel, nip up the wheel bolts, remove the axle stand and trolley jack. then with the wheel back on the ground Torque all 4 wheel bolts to 110NM

 

Step 10

Repeat for the other side, then time for a cuppa tea and a clean up!  Then bed the brakes in over duration of 200 miles as per the manufacturers  recomendations see page 93 of the user manual

 

After doing this work and bedding the brakes in, I found the previous symptoms had gone.

 

Dont forget to dispose of the old parts responsibly.

 

any problems or questions, dont hesitate to ask!

[mikey vrs]

Mate,never fit new brake discs without fitting new pads,you never fit old pads to new discs. 

[Taylor93]

Mate,never fit new brake discs without fitting new pads,you never fit old pads to new discs. 

 

may i ask why? I was told it would have been fine due to them only being 30% worn.

[Toxicvrs]

may i ask why? I was told it would have been fine due to there only being 30% worn.

I'd guess that if they'd adopted grooves from the discs wearing or any abnormalities then it would take a longer to complete the bedding in process of the new discs!

I usually do both at the same time but only because I'm seriously abusive to the brakes :P

Edited 21 September, 2014 by Toxicvrs

[Taylor93]

I'd guess that if they'd adopted grooves from the discs wearing or any abnormalities then it would take a longer to complete the bedding in process of the new discs!

I usually do both at the same time but only because I'm seriously abusive to the brakes :p

 

I had forgotten to add that i had given the pads a quick key with emery cloth to get rid of that.

[Toxicvrs]

I had forgotten to add that i had given the pads a quick key with emery cloth to get rid of that.

Sorted! No issues there then I've got to change some discs on a corsa and will do pads too as they're only £10 extra

[Taylor93]

Sorted! No issues there then I've got to change some discs on a corsa and will do pads too as they're only £10 extra

 

the Pads for the citigo werent quite as cheap!

[Toxicvrs]

the Pads for the citigo werent quite as cheap!

How much?

[Taylor93]

How much?

 

I cannot recall but i have it written down somewhere.

[Toxicvrs]

I cannot recall but i have it written down somewhere.

Ecp do them for £12.60 for a CitiGo

[Taylor93]

Ecp do them for £12.60 for a CitiGo

 

Due to the age of the car, I went with OEM parts. they certainly arent £12.60 per set from TPS/Dealers 

[Toxicvrs]

Due to the age of the car, I went with OEM parts. they certainly arent £12.60 per set from TPS/Dealers

Ohh yeah you're still under warranty

[Stormchaser]

Nice write up thanks [emoji106][emoji16]

[VWGroupie]

Useful link for parts  http://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/shop/SKODA/CITIGO/12-/CITIGO%201.0%20PETROL/Front%20-%20Brake%20Pads%20and%20Shoes

 

[Camlep]

Ohh yeah you're still under warranty

 

I had a conversation with my garage a while ago about brakes (I was looking at putting Brembo pads on).

 

Brakes are outwith warranty claims; they're classed as renewables. The only catch is that if you're still under your 3 years warranty and servicing, if your upgraded brakes wear out, the garage will replace them for free, but only back to OEM standard. So every time you needed new brakes you'd either get back to OEM brakes for free, or have to buy the aftermarket pads/disks again.  

[Snaefell]

Good work Taylor93 but in step 6, I'd recommend against application of copper slip on the drive hub face.

 

The wheel and disc assembly is held in position (and provide drive - in forward and reverse) via friction.  

 

Friction between the mating surfaces of the drive flange/disc/wheel is applied via the wheel bolts, so lube in these areas reduces friction.

 

A good explanation all the same, thanks.

 

Mr S.

Edited 6 August, 2016 by Snaefell

[Scottk]

I normally open up the brake fluid reservoir as it makes it easier to push back pads if needed during removal and fitting.

I wouldn't use copper slip on the slider pins as it reacts with the rubber seals. Use red rubber grease or silicon grease.

Nice guide and good photos. Cheers