Jump to content

1.4 TSI CAXA petrol engine - spark plug change


Recommended Posts

Hi guys (and others !).  I've a 2011/ 60 plate 1.4 tsi (brilliant engine) Elegance estate; had its second variable service yesterday at 35,000 miles; had hoped a spark plug change was included - but discover they're not scheduled until 3rd service (at about 54,000 miles).

Why? I know ultra long life platinum tipped plugs are fitted as standard and generally speaking I have no issues with that - but occasionally, just occasionally, the car catches me out when taking off from cold and either misfires a couple of times (enabling me to feed in extra revs), or actually stalls.

As I say - it has only happened occasionally - but did it once at a roundabout recently.

The memo to self was "Check and possibly fit new spark plugs" - as a set of 4 they're cheap enough via eBay (NGK PZFR6R5758).

Yesterday evening removed engine cover (easy enough - 4 Torq screws) to discover that the coil packs probably need a special tool to prize them up away from their clipped in location on top of the engine and to remove from the wiring loom.

Have searched Interweb thingy - and can't find any info. or videos.

Anybody out there got any experience/comments/suggestions/ideas etc.

Grateful for any meaningful observations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed the spark plugs on my 1.4 TSI at c. 33400 miles when the car was 4 years old, and managed it without any special tools. To remove the coils, I did as follows: 

a) Take two lengths of insulated electrical cable, each c. 3mm diameter and perhaps 500mm long (e.g. one core of a typical mains lead)

B) Thread these cables under the head of the coil in an "X" form and then tie together above the coil

c) Put a bar (I used the extension bar of a socket set) through the two loops of cable and turn a few times to twist the cables together (as if tightening a tourniquet)

d) Pull upwards on the bar to release coil from its retaining tray

By following the above procedure and unclipping the loom from the retaining tray, the coils from cylinders 1, 2 & 3 (counting from the timing drive end) could all be moved completely out of the way without even disconnecting the coils from their connectors. There was much less room for manoeuvre around coil 4 initially and so I also:

e) Removed the charge air pipe that runs from compressor outlet to throttle body

f) Disconnected the breather line that runs from the inlet-side camshaft tunnel to the air filter housing at the air filter housing and swung it out of the way

g) Disconnected the breather line at the timing drive chaincase and at the compressor housing and moved it out of the way

I then had a decent amount of room in which to work and could move coil 4 completely out of the way without disconnecting it from its connector.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Regards,

 

WACH

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...
19 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Usually bottom out and then 1/2: to 2/3 turn. Usually written on spark plug box. 

Definitely not! You risk some major issues doing this.

 

Spark plugs have mostly done away with the crush washer and instead use a conical seat now. Torque settings can be as low as 10Nm on some cars now and the top end of the scale is 30Nm or near enough. Doing a half turn or 2/3 of a turn can completely overtighten them. Heads are getting even thinner now and I wouldnt want to be the one that pulls the plug out the head.

The second thing is, the spark gap is positioned on newer engines with millimeter precision to create the best burn with direct injection engines so over or under torquing will place it in the non optimal place (difference will be negligible i know)

 

The last thing I wanted to add is, had a new Volvo XC90 in the workshop that was serviced and the tech torqued all his plugs on all makes and models to 35Nm, the porcelain broke off the end of the plug as it stretched it too far and destroyed the engine. Torque setting should of been only 20 or so. That small difference cost a whole lot of cash. 

 

 

Just my input that telling someone to just give it a good nip could cause massive issues and them issues wouldnt come back to you, it would be the poor forum user that has possibly caused massive issues by not following precision advice for that specific car/model/engine.

  • Love it! 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All the ngk plugs I have replaced on vw and skoda over last 10 years are a flat washer gasket design. You can use the torque spec but equally on the plug packaging you will find the rule of thumb regards tightening after bottoming.  Look at the instructions on the plug packet. If you have the mfr service guide and a torque wrench by all means use that.  

 

And when working on cars or any other me mechanical device you have to pay attention to the type of fastener you're dealing with.  A torque wrench for example doesn't stop you cross threading. If I am following a rule of thumb I'd also be judicious if it felt too tight. 

 

 

For example:

 

NGK 1675 PFR7S8EG Laser Platinum Spark Plug

  • Thread Diameter14mm
  • Thread Pitch1.25mm
  • Seat TypeGasket
  • Reach19mm (3/4")
  • Hex Size5/8" (16mm)
  • Terminal TypeSolid
  • Overall HeightISO
  • Gap.031" (0.8mm)

 

 

 

 

Edited by TheClient
  • Like 1
  • Love it! 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.