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Emwl 16514

Andy Preece

By Andy Preece
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)

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Andy Preece Contributor

Andy Preece

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hi I'm back again.

My step daughters Skoda had an mot yesterday. The Emwl has been on for ages I think! I cleared the codes outside the test centre and it failed on emissions .

I was told by the garage to add a fuel treatment some shell fuel and give it some 80mph in 4th gear for half an hour to clean it out ,

I did this ( gf did as I can't drive a manual car at the mo as I have a broken ankle I've a cast!)

Back to test centre and it passed the emissions test my the skin of its teeth! Replaced exhaust back box as the thrashing seemed to bugger up the back box (split along the seam, only 16 months old)

Emwl back on with 16514 on the way home that is only about 8 miles.

If you knowledgable fellas had a crystal ball what would be your best guess to sort this out? Pre cat sensor? Post cat sensor? Cat itself

It's a 65,000 mile car x reg. Old type Skoda engine not the MPI 1.4 8v.

Thanks in anticipation

Andy

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sepulchrave Mentor

sepulchrave

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Would you know the part number? Would you try a cheap pattern one as the car itself has probably only got 2 years in it

 

I'd check the wiring first, fault code is saying the heater circuit is malfunctioning, checking the wiring is free.

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sepulchrave Mentor

sepulchrave

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If the wiring looks sound ie not burnt or obviously damaged or damp or corroded is it a replacement sensor or is it protected by a fuse?

 

No fuse, but you can check the heater yourself by measuring the resistance of the heating element, if it's open circuit then you need a whole new sensor.

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Andy Preece Contributor

Andy Preece

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I replaced the sensor last night and reset the light. Approx 20 miles driving and light back on!!! bosch sensor from eurocarparts cost £85.00! Not scanned it yet as step daughters car but light on nevertheless! HELP PLEASE. Which wires ie colour should show current with the ignition on? If not how can I sort this?

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vindaloo Experienced

vindaloo

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This one then...

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_drive_unit_fuel_injection/mixture_preparation_system_electronic_inj.gas/lambda_control/check_lambda_probe_and_lambda_control_upstream_of_catalytic_converter_%28engines_with_identification_characters_aqv_atz_aqw_azf/

 

Demonstrates how to test both the heater and the lambda.

 

J.

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sepulchrave Mentor

sepulchrave

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And more importantly the wiring and connector!

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Andy Preece Contributor

Andy Preece

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Ok here we go if you measure the volts from the connector that connects to the lambda lead it shows 0.5 volts as shown. There is continuity of the 6 wires between the lambda and the ecu and the 2 indicated wires to the lambda show continuity not an open circuit. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for this part of the car? Could it be a faulty new sensor that I've fitted or a faulty ecu?

I'm a bit foxed.

Thanks for the help in anticipation

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Andy Preece Contributor

Andy Preece

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Should I try replacing the front lambda again as the supplier is happy to do this free? I've seen a post that suggests cutting off the connector block to the lambda and reconnect it with bullet connectors. What does anyone think of this option? This front lambda has no activity whatsoever. The rear one does but when it's plugged in to a scanner and looked at it has a total flat line for the front lambda. Any help greatly appreciated

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sepulchrave Mentor

sepulchrave

Posted
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Should I try replacing the front lambda again as the supplier is happy to do this free? I've seen a post that suggests cutting off the connector block to the lambda and reconnect it with bullet connectors. What does anyone think of this option? This front lambda has no activity whatsoever. The rear one does but when it's plugged in to a scanner and looked at it has a total flat line for the front lambda. Any help greatly appreciated

 

If you're certain that the wiring and connector are fine then it's possible that you've been supplied with brand new dead sensor and you therefore have nothing to lose exchanging it. You should NOT cut the connector off and replace with bullets since this makes no sense.

 

What you can do is cut the wiring and connector off your original probe, connect it and use it to double check that you have continuity back to the ECU.

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