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HELP! Broken lock & handle.


BB78

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Aarrgghh!! In attempting to fix the n/s/f door lock mechanism I've managed to make things worse by breaking the top of the white plastic bit that the lock rod goes in to. I can order a new lock but that's going to take a few days to arrive but in the meantime I need to be able to lock the door, the central locking is dead & I can't leave the door stripped down to access the lock in case it rains, just remembered I've got a hot glue gun so can attempt sticking the broken bit again but I don't think it'll be strong enough to hold, has anyone got any bright ideas how I can lock the door but also unlock it again once the new lock arrives?

 

I've also broken whatever holds the exterior handle on to the door, now when you pull the handle it's unstable & the blanking plate next to it pops off, the cable is connected, it's the bracket or whatever is inside the door holding the handle on that appears to be broken. I've tried Googling things like retaining plate and mounting bracket but nothings coming up & I can't find a diagram of the handle to identify the part, does anyone know what it is, if it can be purchased or what I've done/how to fix it? 

 

Skoda Fabia vRS 2004

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Cheers guys, both very useful! Need to get my head round diagram & figure out which part is broken. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out a way of locking the door, didn't occur to me to park closer to my fence so the door can't be opened. Doh!

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I never want to see this diagram again.. PITA taking the door and lock mech. apart  :devil:

I've done my rear drivers side so many times I can do it blindfolded with one hand tied behind my back whilst skipping and singing a sea shanty :rofl:

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I never want to see this diagram again.. PITA taking the door and lock mech. apart  :devil:

I thought I'd make it a little more challenging by trying to put the lock back in, reconnecting everything & putting the door back together in the dark, with a torch in my mouth and after having had knee surgery so I can't crouch down or bend my knee properly. Not a fun way to spend Sunday night!
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Low & behold reconnected the central locking & it started working! Tried it over & over again & it kept working, debated whether to trust it or not & then it started making the familiar 'struggling to unlock' noise so decided it wasn't worth the risk, have to replace it anyway now I've broken the bit that holds the lock rod but it's going to be a problem not being able to lock it on Wednesday cause I need the car to get to the hospital.

Even with the diagram I still can't work out why the handle is loose.

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I thought I'd make it a little more challenging by trying to put the lock back in, reconnecting everything & putting the door back together in the dark, with a torch in my mouth and after having had knee surgery so I can't crouch down or bend my knee properly. Not a fun way to spend Sunday night!

I was going to comment on having to contend with the rivets, having read this I shant bother :rofl:

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I was going to comment on having to contend with the rivets, having read this I shant bother :rofl:

Rivets were a doddle in comparison, I've bought rivnuts/nutserts for when it comes to putting the carrier back on permanently, I'm HOPING they won't be troublesome but I'm not counting on it, this door & lock are fighting me all the way, it's a battle of will's & I'm determined to win, I have to or it'll fail its MOT in a couple of weeks. :(
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there's a T25 screw you need to access from the edge of the door I think, only unscrew it 3 turn max and tighten it back up. It's a bugger to explain but hopefully you'll figure it out.

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Yeah, don't loosen too much or you will end up doing what I had to do and fish it out, along with the gold hoop from the inside of the door :D

 

Nearly every rivet I put back in was spot on, apart from two in the drivers door... it vibrates with me tunes cranked up a little so I'm still not finished :P

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I've done my rear drivers side so many times I can do it blindfolded with one hand tied behind my back whilst skipping and singing a sea shanty :rofl:

If you can do doors... can you help me fix my door handle?

I'm sick of the sodding thing not fitting.

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there's a T25 screw you need to access from the edge of the door I think, only unscrew it 3 turn max and tighten it back up. It's a bugger to explain but hopefully you'll figure it out.

 

There's two on mine. One turns a metal collar which holds the lock barrel and one seems to locate into a blind hole in the lock barrel to further hold it. I dropped that one in the door and had to fish it out with one of those telescopic magnet tools :p

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There's two on mine. One turns a metal collar which holds the lock barrel and one seems to locate into a blind hole in the lock barrel to further hold it. I dropped that one in the door and had to fish it out with one of those telescopic magnet tools :p

yes, quite right, Lee. There are two on the drivers door :)

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Cracked it! With a bit of careful wiggling around (technical term) I managed to get the lock rod in a position where I could lock the door, I suppose I could've disconnected the Bowden cable but didn't want to risk losing the handle and happier knowing the door is locked to the outside world but can be unlocked & opened from the inside once the new lock arrives.

there's a T25 screw you need to access from the edge of the door I think, only unscrew it 3 turn max and tighten it back up. It's a bugger to explain but hopefully you'll figure it out.

I know the screw you're talking about but it doesn't seem to do a great deal, I've tightened it as far as it would go but it's only made a small difference to holding the handle on. It looks like there are possibly 2 little bits on the hanger that have snapped off but I'm not sure & they'd be so small I can't see them being the only thing that secures the handle so that it doesn't come off the door. It's strange that there's not another screw like there is on the drivers side especially as there's a hole for it.
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I need to do some door work (aka sticking rare passenger door) therefore if you can grab any pics of the process it would be very much appreciated!

 

p.s any pointers as to which part i need to repair or replace that may be responsible for the lock not opening every time?

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It's strange that there's not another screw like there is on the drivers side especially as there's a hole for it.

 

I should imagine it's because there is no lock barrel on the passenger side, just a blanking piece. The hole in the door for a second screw will be for left hand drive cars.

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I need to do some door work (aka sticking rare passenger door) therefore if you can grab any pics of the process it would be very much appreciated!

p.s any pointers as to which part i need to repair or replace that may be responsible for the lock not opening every time?

I followed this guide: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/119359-removing-the-ancillaries-carrier/ I used an old plastic spatula as my trim removal tool & the only thing I'd add is when it comes to taping the window glass place or wrap a piece of cloth around the top of the door first, saves having to remove any residual sticky from your paint work. Also be careful when taking the arm rest apart, the back portion slides backwards to release it once the first half is removed, I didn't know this at the time & so broke a couple of the clips off.

You will also need a long reach T20 torx bit or screwdriver & an M8 12 point spline bit to undo the two screws holding the lock mechanism in the door. Get some door card clips as you're bound to break a few. Depending on the year of your car you'll either have bolts or rivets holding the door panel on, bolts good, rivets bad! If it's riveted you'll have to drill them out, you can get the proper rivets to replace them but you need a heavy duty rivet gun to fit them, I've opted for M4 rivnuts but haven't tested them out yet.

Have a tube of builders silicone on hand for when you put the door back together to seal the inevitable door card leak and have lots & lots of patience & go-go-gadget arms for the random twisted positions you have to get them in at certain points.

As for what's wrong could be dry solder joints or the motor, I took mine apart but couldn't find any obvious fault but as I broke the plastic bit that holds the lock rod I've had to replace the entire lock mechanism, probably easier to replace the whole thing anyway. New lock mechanism £155 from Stealer or £25 - £45 from fleEbay.

My strongest advice is don't put off repairing/replacing it, if or when it fails altogether you'll have a deadlocked door & you can't access the inside of the door without causing damage & cutting holes in things, it's a damn site easier if you can open the door. Trust me!

My replacement was delivered today whilst I was at Physio & because it required a signature the postman didn't leave it, frustrating cause I could of got it fitted whilst it's not raining and typically the forecast is for rain for the next few days.

Edited by BB78
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I should imagine it's because there is no lock barrel on the passenger side, just a blanking piece. The hole in the door for a second screw will be for left hand drive cars.

Yeah I figured as much, just a bit weird that seeing as the hole is there they haven't utilised for holding the handle or bracket on.

I've found an old thread about the same problem & it mentions the gold hoop, I don't think mine has come off but will get a better look when I take the lock mechanism out again to replace it. Hope I don't have to replace the bracket for the sake of 2 tiny plastic nobbly bits breaking off, already got to replace the upper door trim with the speaker behind it cause I got frustrated & snapped it.

All this hassle for a door I rarely use.

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Yeah I figured as much, just a bit weird that seeing as the hole is there they haven't utilised for holding the handle or bracket on.

I've found an old thread about the same problem & it mentions the gold hoop, I don't think mine has come off but will get a better look when I take the lock mechanism out again to replace it. Hope I don't have to replace the bracket for the sake of 2 tiny plastic nobbly bits breaking off, already got to replace the upper door trim with the speaker behind it cause I got frustrated & snapped it.

All this hassle for a door I rarely use.

I had issues with that gold hoop. Even with the door apart I still struggled for 3 hours to get it to sit properly :(

06BB3F7B-4B15-4081-9346-05BBC8A5FA3C_zps

When putting back together I had to improvise as the little screw kept dropping back in the door!

B228B58F-B4E5-48D6-ACD7-70349186EAB2_zps

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