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I seem to recall an advisory relating to soft euro rotors and the Bendix Euro+ were developed with pads as well to address the rapid wear issue.

Has anyone heard of them?

Wouldn't touch Bendix with a bargepole.  When asbestos was being banned they sat on their bums & did nothing then asked for an exemption from the ban because they hadn't done any R&D on asbestos free.  The asbestos free offerings they eventually produced were rubbish.

 

The best thing you can do is go to a good quality aftermarket rotor with matched pads (ie: some pads that work on the material transfer principal don't work well with DBA rotors - they are noisy).  You'll never look back.

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Further to my Bendix mention

They replaced the metal component with ceramic in their pads.

Forget rotors, I thought it was both......not so.

This is their latest product and was primarily to deal corrosive brake dust pitting alloys and they claim reduced rotor wear as a bonus.

I don't sell or deal with them, just info FWIW.

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regarding fluid flushing - even if you don't get the brakes hot enough to boil the fluid, what will happen is the moisture will tend to sit on the bottom of the caliper or master cylinder & start to cause corrosion.  This isn't an issue until you push back the piston fro a pad change or bleed the brakes with the pump method - then in the master cylinder the seals chop out from the corrosion.  Eventually the corrosion can also cause issues with the calipers but it's usually only ruined pistons.

Exactly!

 

I'd be doing brake fluid every 3 years

Me too.

 

Dumb question: Why do the brakes corrode so much in the UK?

My guess is basically your more damp atmosphere.

Hot brakes through a 'ford' wouldn't help.....thermal shock and an intake of 'breath'.

Our 'outback' would be the perfect long-life environment in comparison.

If you do need to transit deep cold water, preferably with cold calipers.

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 - £20 for a new Gunsons Ezebleed kit from Screwfix, spread over two cars and N years of the kit's life. (My old kit was 35 years old and had gone opaque and brittle, so I thought I'd invest in a fresh one!). 

Mine's at the same stage, time for a new kit!

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Are there any particular discs/pads that Briskodians would recommend?  Thinking of giving the replacement job a go myself :S

 

Nothing too fancy, just decent (at least OEM-spec) components.

 

Cheers

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Are there any particular discs/pads that Briskodians would recommend?  Thinking of giving the replacement job a go myself :S

 

Nothing too fancy, just decent (at least OEM-spec) components.

 

Cheers

 

 

See my first post above...  Yeti-man knows more about decent brakes than anyone.  So I asked him his advice and that is what I quoted above.  The high spec front ones I'm on about are the DS2500s.

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Dumb question: Why do the brakes corrode so much in the UK?

 

It rains!! Lots!!

AND GB has the highest rate of winter rock salt usage per mile of road, than anywhere I know.  Same reasons bodywork corrosion is a bigger issue here than most other countries.

Edited by FlintstoneR1
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AND GB has the highest rate of winter rock salt usage per mile of road, than anywhere I know.  Same reasons bodywork corrosion is a bigger issue here than most other countries.

Most other countries use winter tyres so the councils don't need to try pretend winter isn't real by trying to melt all the ice/snow.

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It rains!! Lots!!

I live in semi-subtropical Sydney so we generally cop lots in fairly short periods  (2 weeks ago we had a 1-in-100 yr storm my rain gauge recorded 100mm in 3 hours - my garage flooded :-( ).

 

Do you salt the roads in Winter?  I assume that's the difference.

 

edit: read Flintstones answer - makes sense - thx

Edited by brad1.8T
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