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passenger rear brake binding


P34RC3

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Iv had new discs and pads new handbrake cables and new rear calipers. Still been getting this mooing noise in reverse and at low speed. Noticed more brake dust on passenger rear than drivers. Jacked up the car today as I was adjusting suspension height and I noticed the wheel doesn't turn freely. The brakes seem to ne binding. Any help with why?

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It's gonna be a sticking caliper most likely, disconnect the handbrake cable from the caliper and then pop some mole grips on the lever the handbrake cable would normally pull on when engaged, does this move freely ? Mine was binding so using the mole grips I'd applied a up and down motion which helped free the lever up and then I used gt85 spray to assist lubricating where the lever is joined to the caliper, this seems have worked well on my car although I have heard stories of calipers being siezed completely and the only option being a replacement or full strip down and rebuild

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I had this problem after fitting cheap pads from ECP had to practically hammer them in and out the caliper. When measured they were a few thou bigger than the original pads, so either had to grind them down or buy oe pads, I went for the second option and they fit perfect and dont keep seizing on.

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Could be a failing flexible brake hose. If the internal diameter of the pipe is collapsing it will no release the brake fluid back to the master. If you crack off the bleed nipple as it releases the pressure and the wheel turns freely try a new flexible pipe?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Mine Moo all the time, despite regular maintenance. I find that a clean, a liberal application of Copaslip to the backs of the pads, and filing off a chamfer to the edges of new pads helps though.

 

But they all do it, it's not a major concern.

 

I had some new tyres fitted last week, and when I collected the car, it came with a 'workshop' form that informed me 'safety issue - rear brakes binding!' They're not binding, they just Moo...

 

I told the workshop manager that 'it was a feature of the model' but he just gave me a blank look like I was mental :D

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Mine Moo all the time, despite regular maintenance. I find that a clean, a liberal application of Copaslip to the backs of the pads, and filing off a chamfer to the edges of new pads helps though.

But they all do it, it's not a major concern.

I had some new tyres fitted last week, and when I collected the car, it came with a 'workshop' form that informed me 'safety issue - rear brakes binding!' They're not binding, they just Moo...

I told the workshop manager that 'it was a feature of the model' but he just gave me a blank look like I was mental :D

When I was putting my wheel back on after adjusting my suspension I forgot to put the handbrake on. However its binding that much It didn't matter. I struggled lining the other side up with the wheel nuts and had to then apply the handbrake. Think its something abit more than just a clean and copper slip up.

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This issue has been covered to death on here  :p

 

here a general thread discussion on it .

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/330909-rear-callipers-seizing-replacing/

 

The rear brake set up on the octy is a little poor in design 

 

some people get no issues other people seem to have major problem.

 

I think it is a number of contributing factors and not all folks experience all of them.

 

I added most if not all symptoms and causes in that post above but yours as you have replaced most parts does point to either partially seized or seized caliper or maybe new pads are none OEM and too wide for caliper, but if that the case should wear down reasonably quick.

 

How many clicks do you get on handbrake to fully raised? 

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Just having my not done this week and it failed on rear handbrake and brakes. One of the carriers had a bolt snap inside, one caliper seized. Means 2 new calipers, disks and pads as well as a new carrier. Not to mention changing exhaust, new O2 sensor as old one re-threaded itself and full set of tyres. Pretty expensive week, all these last 9 months i thought i purchased a pretty good car. Turns out i was wrong but then the car is 11 years old and previous owner only got things done when they failed completely. Must have known all this expenses was coming...rant over

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This issue has been covered to death on here :p

here a general thread discussion on it .

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/330909-rear-callipers-seizing-replacing/

The rear brake set up on the octy is a little poor in design

some people get no issues other people seem to have major problem.

I think it is a number of contributing factors and not all folks experience all of them.

I added most if not all symptoms and causes in that post above but yours as you have replaced most parts does point to either partially seized or seized caliper or maybe new pads are none OEM and too wide for caliper, but if that the case should wear down reasonably quick.

How many clicks do you get on handbrake to fully raised?

Ill check later when I get back from work.

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This issue has been covered to death on here :p

here a general thread discussion on it .

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/330909-rear-callipers-seizing-replacing/

The rear brake set up on the octy is a little poor in design

some people get no issues other people seem to have major problem.

I think it is a number of contributing factors and not all folks experience all of them.

I added most if not all symptoms and causes in that post above but yours as you have replaced most parts does point to either partially seized or seized caliper or maybe new pads are none OEM and too wide for caliper, but if that the case should wear down reasonably quick.

How many clicks do you get on handbrake to fully raised?

5 clicks fully raised amd couldn't go anymore

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Yes return springs are fitted. Its a brand new caliper. Iv took it all apart and piston went back fine. Im going to clean and paint up the carriers because there rusty as hell. But I reckon its one of the pads at fault

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Make sure where the pad sits is clean free of rust buy a calliper file to clean them up use copper slip so they move free and see how that goes?

Also as above.

Edited by Guest
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I cleaned the shims and carrier. Then painted the carrier. Piston pushed back fine. Iv trimmed the outside brake pad where it looked to be touching. Put it all back together and seemed to rotate alot better. Wheel back on and took for a drive. Noise seems to have gone touch wood. The drivers side needs doing now. It makes the odd moo but passenger side was that loud you couldn't hear it. I never touched handbrake.

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I cleaned the shims and carrier. Then painted the carrier. Piston pushed back fine. Iv trimmed the outside brake pad where it looked to be touching. Put it all back together and seemed to rotate alot better. Wheel back on and took for a drive. Noise seems to have gone touch wood. The drivers side needs doing now. It makes the odd moo but passenger side was that loud you couldn't hear it. I never touched handbrake.

 

sounds good .

 

The important think is to check and see if the caliper arm is fully against the metal stop bracket. If it is not you still have partial binding, New cables woudl help this and rule out any trapping and reduced movement

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