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About to swap HU and add sub....


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My first proper post....

Im about to swap out the orig HU for my chavtastic SONY Xplod HU I have the ISO adapter. I understand from my forum searching that I need to swap the yellow and red wires to allow memory but also read about a blue wire that needs terminating? Am I correct as I m a tad confused on this point. If so, which wire? lol

I have ordered an adapter for the amplified antenna, I presume I can connect the pwr wire on it to the yellow wire on the iso adapter (as it has an extra bullet point)?

Further to this point I have a twin FLI sub for the boot, I was going to connect the remote pwr wire for this to the yellow on the ISO as well and run the 12v feed direct from the battery, I read there is a route through behind the pollen filter which I presume is behind the airbox, is this easy enough?

 

To add to the chavtasticness I will probably whip out the front 6.5's and fit a pair of co-axial EDGE speakers. I beleive I can do so with just removing the speaker grills not the whole door card?

I think I also read about removing the glove box to aid access during the general fitting process, is this a good idea?

Im not looking for MAD performance ICE just to improve for now, I have the HU and sub here and my local store has the EDGE spkrs cheap so for my very tight budget it shoulkd help. TIA for any help and/or clarification :)

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You can use the blue wire (electric aerial) to supply power to the aerial amplifier power injector unit (and don't connect anything else to it, as that is what can toast the dealers diagnostic tools).  As you state, you will probably need to swap the red & yellow wires around to the unit remembers settings once the ignition is turned off.

 

Removing the glovebox will give you a bit more room to wiggle the extra wiring about.  I removed mine when fitting my parrot kit.

 

Speakers in the doors have to be quite shallow, so check depths before shelling out the cash.

Edited by mbames
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Blue wire is also remote switch on for the amp

You'd want to run a power cable all the way from the battery to the boot to power the boom booms

Then earth said boom booms somewhere in the boot

Also rca leads front to back

Easiest way is to pop the pass seat out

Also yeah, if the glove box is out is does allow fingers to reach up and try help

There is a plastic H bar behind the oem unit too, if u can trim this out ( go careful as its by some loomage ) it gives a chunk more space

Cant say for the speakers as ive always took the door cards off

Pass side easy

Drivers abit more fiddly due to window switchness

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Thanks for the replies. I swapped the HU/ Switched the RED and YELLOW wires, memory working well. Im still waiting for the ebay antenna adapter to come :/ I ran the blue remote switching wire and RCA's from HU to Boot behind the glovebox which I had removed and under trim to the rear. Fitted the sub earth wire... however the power from the battery proved impossible to get through!! I tried the areas mentioned in other posts but found no way through. I then decided that behind the pollen filter under the scuttle panel would be best. I initially tried to remove the wiper arms but couldnt before reading they didnt need to come off. I tried for ages but I could not get the panel to budge and still havent :( So for now no power lead for the sub.
 

Speaker covers came off easily but im yet to go buy the replacements so will update further soon.

On the plus side I got the rear tinted 5% with a windscreen sun strip at 5% also. Looks so much better, new arm rest clip came and was fitted easily. A decent run to skeggy from Northampton yesterday with no troubles from the octy :D

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