Bonnet Showing As Open When Its Not.

[rfk1983]

Hi Everyone

Hoping someone can help out. I have 2008 MK1 Skoda Superb Elegance.

Last night my alarm went off, never heard it before, went out pushed button and it went off, had a look about no one to be seen. Didn’t go off again.

 

Got in car this morning, put key in ignition on dash came up icon of car showing bonnet open. Got out car, tried bonnet it was closed, got back in opened it from inside, slammed it shut, icon still showing on. Tried to lock car, doors locking, but no alarm showing on doors.

Took car into my local garage, he had look, and hooked up his computer, getting the error

 

01336 comfort system

 

He had a look at the bonnet catch, also had a look under carpets in passenger side without taking chair out, couldn’t see any water damage, as I read about water issue with the Skoda’s earlier on. It’s been pretty wet up here in Scotland last night, especially through the night. He also disconnected the battery for 10mins, didn’t work either.

 

Not sure if this error code is linked with the issue with the bonnet showing open. Touch wood as of now, no other electrical mishaps happening.

 

Car booked in to Skoda on Friday, but wondering if anyone can give advice?

 

 

[dieselV6]

Broken cable to bonnet position switch? Or the sensor itself? I'd check switch for continuity with an ohmmeter and bonnet open/closed.

[rotodiesel]

Bonnet lock switch is a microswitch in the bottom of the latch. There is a 2 pole connector adjacent to the latch which gives electrical access for testing - operate the switch lever with a small screwdriver.

 

If you have not addressed the legendary B5.5 water ingress problem, there will probably be a "green" connector at the bottom of the LH "A" pillar. The bonnet latch switch wiring runs through here on its way to the CCM.

 

If the rainwater leak mods are not done, there will be continuous electrical problems, which are time consuming and expensive to rectify.

 

rotodiesel.

[Gaz]

 

If you have not addressed the legendary B5.5 water ingress problem.......

 

If the rainwater leak mods are not done, there will be continuous electrical problems, which are time consuming and expensive to rectify.

 

Off topic, but I was working on my son's '93 Polo Coupe at the weekend - he'd blown his heater matrix.  Despite having a veritable compost heap of leaf mould n his plenum chamber..... it took all of 15 minutes to get the matrix out (from the plenum chamber no less!!), but the airbox entry through the bulkhead is so high it'd be nearly impossible to get water finding its way into the cabin (not that there's any IT ready for a good soaking under the carpet anyway).

 

Fascinating how car technology moves on   

 

Gaz

[jimbof]

I believe this is a pretty classic water ingress fault... I think the bonnet connector block is one of the first ones to get wet in the pillar.

Have you had the water ingress repairs done yet?  If not you should anyway, regardless, as these cars all leak and they have usually started by your age.  I bought a 2006 Superb a little over 3 years ago (also a Scottish car) - and it was already leaking a couple of weeks later (in fact, probably when I bought it).

 

Beware, many dealerships seem to be in denial as to what is needed to fix this.  The dealership who looked at mine down here just took the bungs out without resealing the pollen filter housing.  So if they say water ingress, make sure that at the very least the bungs are out and the pollen filter housing resealed with the VW sealing cord.

[rfk1983]

Thanks for your replies

 

My water ingress repair hasn’t been done before as far as I’m aware on my car, to be honest before this issue, I didn’t really know about it.

 

Last night my alarm went off at 1.30am morning, without anyone near it.

 

This morning went out to car, and now the warning on dash for bonnet open has cleared. Nothing is now showing on dash. The car is booked in to my local Skoda dealer tomorrow, still going to get it looked at.

 

I’m hoping nothing too major and if water issue, found it early enough before any further damage is done.

[rotodiesel]

Find a good VW Independent. The dealers are in denial over this design fault - hardly a basis for a proper fix.

 

If you must use a dealer, the relevant "Information update" (Technical service bulletin) for VW branded product is Info 443/06 dated 10 July 2006. It requires the use of sealer strip AKD 497 010 04R 10 to replace the lousy pollen filter holder seal after removing two plenum chamber bungs. Find this bulletin online and stuff it under their noses. Also google "Wierd little biscuit".

 

If you want to run one of these potentially long-lasting cars for anything like its full capability, don't take it anywhere near a "Skoda" dealer. If you can't do it yourself, a good Independent who knows all of the design shortcomings of this vehicle is the route to take. A 1.9PD can run almost for ever - given the right maintenance (not VAG's "schedule").

 

rotodiesel.

[rfk1983]

rotodiesel, thanks for your update, is this what should hand in with the car? http://www.skodaclub.ee/doc/vw_pollen_filter_repair.pdf

 

its booked in now tommorow, ill see what they have to say, ill get them to confirm anything with me before they go ahead

[rotodiesel]

Spot on. Make sure both bungs come out as well. There's one under the battery tray and one in the well for the brake servo vac chamber. The latter one has a pipe running through it - just push it down about 1" so the plenum chamber recess drains.

 

rotodiesel.

Edited 18 November, 2014 by rotodiesel

[rfk1983]

thanks for your advice, ill need to pass this on to either garage or someone else if decide not to get them to do it, most of what you have just said above has went right over my head,

 

im hoping that ive caught the problem earlier, and it can be resolved wihtout much cost, as the only issue ive had is this bonnet showing as being open and bit condensation inside window when wet/cold,

 

just hoping they dont find more issues when they look into it

[jimbof]

In the main my experience is they have such a "daddy knows best" attitude when faced with anyone who knows a bit that you seem guaranteed a bad job regardless... Whereas sensible independents have a much more sensible attitude. I guess dealers have to justify their rates with a high and mighty attitude.

[rfk1983]

Hi

 

Ok finally getting to the bottom of issue with car, what a week! Local Skoda dealer tried to take the pi** but wont go into that.

 

They found it to be the bonnet catch which was faulty this was replaced. After run in with the garage got them to do no further work on the car and took it to my local guy who has since sorted the water ingress issue which was found on my car, very early signs of it, so fingers crossed, caught it in time.

 

My local guy has replaced the seal around the pollen filter and also checked all the other parts. He also managed to sort a central locking issue which never noticed until got car back on friday from Skoda, keyfob was only opening my door no others. My local guy seems to have fixed this... but

 

The only 1 thing thats not fixed now, is the light on drivers door is not flashing, cant for the life of me remeber if it used to flash but sure it did

 

any ideas?

[jimbof]

Flashing indicates the alarm is armed. It only arms the alarm if it detects all doors (including boot, and maybe bonnet) are shut. So you either have a door open, or a switch is saying a door is open, or perhaps water damage to the CCM. A scan / play with diagnostics on the measuring block should show up what is going on

[jimbof]

Actually what I've written isn't correct - the flashing of the little red driver's LED I think indicates the locks are in safe mode (deadlocked).  The alarm indeed won't arm if a door is sensing open - but in that case your indicators don't flash when you lock the car.  (they might not flash anyway - that is one of the few things you can change with the diagnostic lead on these cars).

 

Normally the only way you can stop the locks being deadlocked is to press the lock button twice - the first time locks it with deadlocks and alarm, the second press keeps it locked but takes off the deadlock and the alarm (and the LED).  

 

Sorry for the duff info.

[rfk1983]

hey jimbof thanks for reply

 

my indicators are flashing when locking car, as you can see above got my bonnect catch replaced, and water ingress issue fixed (early signs of water in car not much)

 

during this work my central locking stopped working, keyfob was only opening my door, but my mechanic cleared an error which came up and reset it and central locking working ok now, but the led is not flashing, the light inside car is still flashing

 

could it be the bulb itself?

[jimbof]

Could be, but red LED's have a lifetime in the hundreds of thousands of hours (and even then, they usually just get dimmer).  It is also easy to leave disconnected by accident if you have had the door trim panel off.  There is a little two pin cable connector that runs up to it.  Or it could be the connection to that bulb is damaged anywhere along the way from the bulb to the CCM, or the output of the CCM itself.  

[rfk1983]

thanks for your reply, know door trim panel has not been taken off, but ill get this looked into further maybe by someone more auto spark than my mechanic

 

so are you thinking because this is not flashing the alarm itself probably is not being enabled? anyway to check this?

[jimbof]

As per my correction, I think the flashing LED just says the doors are deadlocked.  To test the alarm, lock car (single press) and unlock a door with the key.  They alarm should go off.

[rfk1983]

thanks for reply, ill try that tonight,

 

so to enable deadlocks is it just one click? think click twice on my keyfob to lock, first one locks it, second opens drivers door

[jimbof]

To lock car and enable alarm /deadlocks: 1 click.  Door LED will be flashing.

To lock car and disable alarm /deadlocks: 2 clicks.  Door LED will be off.

To unlock a locked car: 1 click.

This might only open driver's door if the CCM has been set up for selective unlocking. If you want all doors unlocked, press unlock again.

[rfk1983]

my car currently

 

1 click on lock, all doors lock, no light on door flashing

2 click on lock, all doors keep locked my door opens no light on door flashing

1 click to open, my drivers door open

2 click to open, rest of doors open

 

any way to test if deadlocks are enabling without the light flashing?

[Danny 57]

I believe that if you sit in the car with dead locks on you are not able to open the doors from the inside.

[jimbof]

Danny is right; I just gave it a go.  Don't tug the handle too hard - you don't want to stretch the cable! But it does resist.

[rfk1983]

ok guys, thanks for replies,

 

tried locking car and opening from inside, if pull to unlock from inside, my door pin pops up, pull again door opens and alarm goes off

 

when lock car, my indicators do flash, but seems my deadlocks not working

 

is this related to seperate wire?

 

as my central locking/alarm seems to be working

[jimbof]

I dunno; I'd quite like to not have working deadlocks. As far as I know there isn't any way to disable them, and they become a massive pain if you get a broken lock and they are stuck on.

If you find out how come the deadlocks aren't working then let me know; I'd like to disable mine now my locks are headed into old age. Let's face it - getting into a car is easy (brick)...