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Latest mod (main beam DRLs)


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OK, so I planned this for a while after being inspired by a fellow Briskodian (@DieselV6) as I do a lot of Continental driving and in a lot of countries I visit, Daylight Running Lights are a must, or burning the low beam xenons...

I caught myself many times forgetting to turn the dips on, and this could get expensive in terms of police fines.  SO, decided on some DRL set-up, but on the Superb having a neat aftermarket DRL light installation is difficult, so I went with a DC DC converter and running the main beam bulbs at 4.0 V and isolating that circuit from the main beam circuit with a 16A capable Schottky diode.  The whole thing cost me under £20, and the brightness is adjustable on the DC DC converter.  I have found 4 volts works well, nobody is blinded, and they are visible enough.  They are driven off the TFL pin on the light switch, which is live whenever the ignition is on unless you turn the sidelights on or dips.

The start up is soft, around 0.7-0.8s.

Before anyone starts criticising (!), main beam DRL set-up is pretty common in North America, where they tend to run them at 6V, and that's much brighter than 4V.

I attach a photo of the lights now for information, although with naked eyes it looks a bit different.

No fancy LEDs here, but I like the sheer simplicity of it!  And I can isolate the circuit on a switch in case I am concerned it might not pass the MOT :-)

 

http://s46.photobucket.com/user/oh_superb/media/photo_zps92a8791b.jpg.html

 

 

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That's very interesting.  You used a DC-DC converter something like this....?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-300W-12A-DC-DC-Buck-Step-Down-7-32V-To-0-8-28V-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-/191322306869?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item2c8bb2b935

 

 

I might investigate that.....I drive around with the side lights on anyway, just so that I can see the instrument panel dials, and the front side lights look a bit silly in the daylight.

 

 

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I used exactly something like that, but lower spec, I think 75W rather than 300W, but more is never a problem...

 

The input into that converter comes out of the TFL pin from the light switch (you need a length of repair wire).

I found an old stereo ISO connector lead set that i surplus to requirements and pulled one of them out, and presto, fitted perfectly into my light switch spare location (to match the TFL pin).

 

The output from the DC DC converter goes into the back of Fuse 19 (main beam circuit).

 

Between the output of the DC DC converter and the wire that goes into the main beam circuit you need a Schottky diode, oriented the correct way around.  This will block the 12V from the main beam feeding into the DC DC converter, but it will still allow the 4 volts from the converter to go into the main beam circuit.  I got a 16A current capable one from Maplins, £1.34.

The case to house it all was a fiver (die cast).  It does get hot though, so I think I will drill some extra holes in it, and also accommodate a silent fan to run when the DRLs are on, to prolong the life of the electronics - which by the way all sit in the void above the fuse box.

Almost forgot; a DPDT switch (around £2.50) can simultaneously isolate the 12V feed into the DRL box, and the 4V outlet from the box.

 

Mind you, the DRL function will NOT illuminate the dials, unless you also feed the 12V from the TFL pin into the specific wire in the fuse box (don't forget another diode), in addition to the 4V into the main beams (or fogs).

Edited by oh_superb
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