Considering a new Yeti

[clv101]

My Fabia vRS is approaching its 11th birthday and an awesome, reliable car it's been. However, I'm now looking for something larger and with 4x4.

 

The Octavia Scout looks great, but not worth (in my mind) the extra over the Yeti so after brief consideration of the Sportage, ix34 I'm pretty much set on the Yeti. My intention would be to own for a long time as I did with the Fabia, which I bought new. Question is, should I buy new or used this time?

 

I'm not bothered by waiting a few months, and the only extra I'm set on is the tow bar. Likely looking at the 110PS Outdoor S 4x4 or possibly the 140 SE (shame the 140 engine isn't available in S trim). Looking at the 1-2 year old Yetis, the savings from new don't seem huge (maybe because most have options I'm not fussed about?), especially considering the 'spent' warranty period.

 

A few questions:

• How do the 110 and 140 engines compare - basically identical fuel consumption/CO2? Is one more reliable than the other? Coming from the 130PD vRS will the 110 feel slow?
• Am I right in thinking the 110PS Outdoor S 4x4 comes with a 6-speed gear box?
• The 'Outdoor Plus Package' is a £690 option on the Outdoor S - what exactly does it include?
• The standard radio, does it accept a aux-in from a phone/MP3 player or USB stick or do you have to add the 'multi device interface'?
• £630 for the '2 yr extended warranty' seems a bit steep - especially if something catastrophic happened requiring >>£1000 repair in year 4, I'd like to think a Skoda would help out through 'goodwill'? Do folk generally think this is worth it?
• What are the downsides of ordering through a company like carfile.net - which seem to offer decent savings? 

Thanks in advance!

Edited 10 January, 2015 by clv101

[eribaMotters]

I cannot comment on 4x4 as my Yeti is a 2WD, and I believe radios have changed since collecting my ne Yeti in June 1014.

 

As regards carfile and similar brokers sites, the discounts are a little missleading. You need to read the small print as the 10/14% off prices are only generally available on cash purchases. If going the trade-in route, making the most of finace and service deals 5/6% is typical. I used this as my guide when phoning around deaers I could get to within an hours drive or or so.

 

The tow bar is always a good cause of "discussion". If you only want basic electrics without the capacity to run a caravan fridge/charge battery, get the factory fit.removeable with 13 pin.[it is a bargain]  If you want the fully functioning 13 pin get the dealer to quote as this could alter your choice of supplying dealer.

 

Colin

[prodata]

As regards carfile and similar brokers sites, the discounts are a little missleading. You need to read the small print as the 10/14% off prices are only generally available on cash purchases. If going the trade-in route, making the most of finace and service deals 5/6% is typical.

Sorry, I don't agree. Deals with finance can be 'cheaper' because the dealer is making an extra margin on the finance package. But whether the rates on offer are necessarily the best available will vary from deal to deal and it's impossible to generalise. And on p/ex, I've been offered significantly more via Carfile than from Skoda dealers within 30/40 miles.

I've no hesitation in using Carfile, have done so before and I know others who've used them too. The only real downside of brokers like Carfile is that you may be dealing with a showroom a good way away from home, but only you can decide if that's a deal-breaker.

I guess the real benefit of buying used is that you can do a deal now, today even (or, realistically, take ownership within a few days of agreeing the deal) and so you're spared the hassle of waiting maybe 8-12 weeks, with some potential uncertainty about what the value of your trade-in might be at that point (unless you've been able to cover this aspect in a binding way as part of your deal).

[James I]

One of my all time favourite cars has been my Yeti, it was not the new face lift variety it was  pre facelift.

 

 I had the 170 TDI Elegance, no optional extras were chosen it was just how it came from the factory, the car was fantastic, it was a great family car, it was a "B" road blaster when the need arose, it also quite happily sat on the motorway and kept up with the rest with ease.

 Traction was outstanding, braking was also done with ease as the 170tdi has bigger discs/callipers on the front, the car covered 130,000 miles in three years and the only time Skoda assist was ever called was to attend a puncture when we were in the highlands of Scotland, this was more of a Dunlop issue than a Skoda issue.

 

 I have had many cars, from Audi's, BMW's etc and if I could choose one car from all the cars I have had in my past I would relive my time in a Yeti.

 

As for where to get one, best deals and so on, I would go to Mitchells in Chester/Ellesmere Port and thrash out a good deal, they are usually very fair, speak with Neil Gregory or Dave Alexander.

 

 Happy Yeti Hunting 

[YetiJames]

Hello,

I've had a 1.9 130 unit and they were good engines. I've driven 110's, 140's and 170's from vw group and I like the latter two - I think the 110 will disappoint if you seek performance (or simply want it to compare well to the 130).

Please note I didn't drive these in Yetis though.

The 140 is good, the 170 a peach. For economy I'd skip the 110 and get the Greenline 1.6 105...

I love my Yeti though and if I was keeping a car for ten + years I would get new if the budget allowed. I would drive for a large discount late Feb' on a 64 plate - it's still new and a facelifted model!

Cheers

I

[speedsport]

I agree with James. If I were buying a car to keep for over 5 or 6 years, I'd pay the extra and go for new if i could afford it. Taken over the whole of your ownership of the vehicle, the premium you pay for new spread over your whole ownership becomes negligible.

 

I'm a bit confused about Colin's advice in post #2 though. I'd have gone for the factory fitted fully functioning detachable tow bar every time, as I still think it hard to beat the price, and you'll have no issues with coding ('cos its done at the factory). And it will have the same warranty as the vehicle, including any extended warranty you might buy. Also, you won't have a dealer (or their fitting agent) removing interior trim to run wiring looms around the interior either.

 

As for wisdom of extended warranties.... it's a "toss a coin" job in my view.

You could be lucky and never have a fault in years 3 - 5, in which case you would have wasted the cash.

Or, you could have a fault that costs less than the warranty anyway, or one that Skoda contribute towards the cost of repair.

Or you might not buy an extended warranty at all and have loads of faults!

 

Several Yetiists say they've never had a fault on their car.

Others (like me) have had a whole string of them. It's impossible to advise with any degree of certainty really.

 

Whatever you decide, I am confident when I say you'll love the car - hopefully fault free!

[runswickstag]

Just to add my comments! our first Yeti was a 140 SE 4X4, and the one we have now is the same car with the 110 engine. Prior to placing the order I drove the 110 and was surprised at how little difference there was between it and it`s bigger brother! the current Yeti we have now tows a 1300kg caravan with no trouble, and in daily use has plenty of power /torque for our needs. I would try and drive both if possible. Can`t really comment on the petrol variants, but in my opinion the diesel `suits` the Yeti and would be probably more attractive to sell further down the line.

[eribaMotters]

To clarify ?? my comments in 2nd posting above:-

[1] -http://www.carfile.net/results.php?type=business&vehicle=car&make=SKODA&model=SUPERB&modtext=&budget=&emissions=&bodystyle=&transmission=&fuel=&doors= shows expect 7% discount on Superb and not up to 18%

[2] - I wanted a factory fit towbar, but it did not have the fully functioning 13 pin wiring that I wanted for the caravan electrics. As such I needed either a dealer or after market fit. I went for dealer fit that was done before collection. This means the same 3 yr warranty as the car.

 

Colin

[Llanigraham]

It appears from some reports that the new, factory fitted system does include the additional wiring.

It is cheaper and easier ordering the factory fitted towbar in all cases, since you then get all the correct coding and the proper cutout in the rear bumper; the 2 things that some dealers don't seem to be able to cope with.

[DGW]

The Outdoor Plus pack has gone up from £485 in November when I placed my order to £725 in the 01/15 Yeti brochure. According to that brochure it consists of the following:

Tailpipe trim, black protective side mouldings with chrome ledges, decorative side sill covers and rear bumper cover in aluminium look.

The 01/15 Yeti Accessories Brochure which I have downloaded on my iPad, but can't now find the link to, has photos. It describes the pack slightly differently as below:

Rear bumper protective strip - aluminium look.

Side protective strips with aluminium look insert.

Door sill covers - aluminium look.

The rear bumper protective strip (cover) is useful but the rest could be regarded as bling.

P.S. You can see what the decoratve side sill covers look like in the photo on page 21 of the brochure below.

http://www.skoda.lt/katalogai/documents/yeti_catalogue_eng.pdf

[Ryeman]

The 4x4 ain't light ~1600kg and 110 is all about torque not acceleration so if if you think you are a power person go for the 170, for you that may be the cheaper route in the long run.

[Sporky McGuffin]

I think anything less than the 170 will feel slow after the PD130's slug of torque hitting.

[muddyboots]

I think anything less than the 170 will feel slow after the PD130's slug of torque hitting.

What he said...

 

I used to own an 2003 Ibiza PD130 - essentially the same as what you're replacing.

 

There are some significant differences to take into account.

 

1) As above - the CR diesels don't have the low down torque surge of the PDs, they are more linear in output and *feel* slower, although they do rev more freely.

2) The Yeti will be heavier than the Fabia, more so in 4x4 guise, so this will blunt acceleration.

3) The 4x4 drivetrain will sap a bit of power too.

 

If you're wanting to match the performance you're used to in the Fabia, I'd completely discount the 110, look at the 140 as a minimum, and consider the 170 as the closest match.

 

When I had my Ibiza, it was my favourite car that I'd owned.

After that, I had two B5.5 Passat estates (both PD130s); despite the same engine as the Ibiza, performance was really blunted because of the extra weight. I remember driving to a RR day with some Ibiza owners off seatcupra.net, and from roundabouts etc they left me standing despite having the same engine, and the Yeti I think is even heavier than the Passats were.

I then had a Focus TDCI 136 for a couple of years. zzzZZZZ. 

Then I got a Yeti 170, and this has now taken over the title of "my favourite car", I love driving it It's fairly quick, has higher specced brakes than the rest of the range, and feels so planted on the road it was a real surprise.

 

In terms of new vs. used, everyone has their own preference.

FWIW, I've only ever bought one new car (the Ibiza as it happens - which I imported) - but watching it's value tumble away was enough for me, I only ever buy used now, generally between 2 and 3 years old with low mileage, single owner, and good history; and let someone else take the depreciation hit.

[muddyboots]

I've no hesitation in using Carfile, have done so before and I know others who've used them too. The only real downside of brokers like Carfile is that you may be dealing with a showroom a good way away from home, but only you can decide if that's a deal-breaker.

Not sure if it was Carfile or not, but my Dad bought his Yeti through a broker, yes it came from a distant (UK) dealer - but it was delivered on a trailer to his door, and all servicing/warranty work is done at his local dealer.

Personally I can't see any downsides to this route; if I were to buy new, this is certainly how I'd start.

[g6zru]

It appears from some reports that the new, factory fitted system does include the additional wiring.

It is cheaper and easier ordering the factory fitted towbar in all cases, since you then get all the correct coding and the proper cutout in the rear bumper; the 2 things that some dealers don't seem to be able to cope with.

Even if it didn't include the "extra" wiring I'd still go for the factory fit for the reasons given by Graham. However I disagree with Graham about SOME dealers being unable to cope, I think it's ALL dealers. Certainly all the ones I've dealt with were consistent in their ignorance.

If, and it's a big if, I decided that I couldn't live without the additional wiring I'd get it fitted locally after delivery, by a genuine towbar fitter. However. I've managed, and so have our Continental cousins, without for 10 years.

[Llanigraham]

Even if it didn't include the "extra" wiring I'd still go for the factory fit for the reasons given by Graham. However I disagree with Graham about SOME dealers being unable to cope, I think it's ALL dealers. Certainly all the ones I've dealt with were consistent in their ignorance.

If, and it's a big if, I decided that I couldn't live without the additional wiring I'd get it fitted locally after delivery, by a genuine towbar fitter. However. I've managed, and so have our Continental cousins, without for 10 years.

 

No Fred, I know of 2 that have done the job properly first time: Sinclairs and Faintree, so definitely SOME.

Ditto on the not-needed extra feeds.

[valep]

I went on the carfile web site and noted down all the prices for the car I specked went to the dealer with it, I had got a price from a dealer for my part exchange and they match carfile price and my part exchange worth a try

[prodata]

I went on the carfile web site and noted down all the prices for the car I specked went to the dealer with it, I had got a price from a dealer for my part exchange and they match carfile price and my part exchange worth a try

 

It always is (worth a try). In other words, it's never wrong to pester a dealer into trying to match an offer for cost-to-change from elsewhere (provided you do it in a reasonable manner) - the worst they can do is to say no and just sometimes you may strike lucky.

 

Sometimes you may happen to be talking to the same dealer that the broker might be using; if so, the broker may be only too happy to pocket the 1% (or whatever) that they would otherwise be committed to paying to the broker as the agreed introduction fee. And even if this isn't the case then the broker deal will still have included some profit for the parties concerned so it shouldn't be unmatchable in the wider world. But just don't be too surprised if your local dealer politely declines your offer.

[Ryeman]

Things can happen when you just get up and walk out..........

[jlwah]

No Fred, I know of 2 that have done the job properly first time: Sinclairs and Faintree, so definitely SOME.

Ditto on the not-needed extra feeds.

Add Robert Eardley & Son of Stoke to that list. They did ours perfectly and were the cheapest dealer fit option I could find within sensible driving distance of us.

[muddyboots]

Things can happen when you just get up and walk out..........

Indeed !

 

Last few used cars I've bought from traders, we've had the chat about price, they give 101 reasons why they can't come to down to my offer, so I politely suggest I'll look elsewhere, and get up and leave.

Always get a call within a day (when I bought my last car, within an hour of getting home) offering to knock a tiny bit more off.

Decline that, and there's a good chance they'll call back again with more money off.

 

I find dealing with car salesmen quite amusing.

[eribaMotters]

Since 2002 I have bought 1 Renault [don't ask], 2 VW, 1 Seat, 1 Toyota and a Skoda. In each case I got a price from a brokers site and contacted dealers directly with this as a bargaining tool. In all case they matched the deal. In 3 cases the dealers were within 1 mile of home, another 4 miles, and the last two 25 miles and 60 miles.

As my late father said "if you don't ask you don't get", I can cope with these distances, and with the unfortunate exception of my recent Skoda purchase the garages have all been very good to deal.

 

Colinwith

[clv101]

Many thanks for all the comments, really appreciate it.

 

I'll have to test both the 110 and 140. Though it does sound like the 140 will be worth it in the long run. No chance for the 170 as it's only available in the expensive Elegance trim and above. Ideally, I'd have the 170 in S trim!

My 04 Fabia, I bought that through Drive the Deal - just stock for £10900 - so pretty happy with the broker approach. I'd certainly try and get the dealer to come close.

 

Assuming I go for the Outdoor 2.0 TDI CR [140] SE 4x4, with factory tow... and rough road pack. Are the any other options I'll regret not choosing? Heated windscreen??

North of £20k is a lot of money and makes me consider ~4 year old ~50k cars for half that price. But given I'd hope to keep this car for 10yrs I'm trying to convince myself it's not daft.

[muddyboots]

No chance for the 170 as it's only available in the expensive Elegance trim and above. 

You'd get a 1-2 year old one with less than 20k miles on for a good bit less than £20k...

[Ryeman]

Indeed !

 

Last few used cars I've bought from traders, we've had the chat about price, they give 101 reasons why they can't come to down to my offer, so I politely suggest I'll look elsewhere, and get up and leave.

Always get a call within a day (when I bought my last car, within an hour of getting home) offering to knock a tiny bit more off.

Decline that, and there's a good chance they'll call back again with more money off.

 

I find dealing with car salesmen quite amusing.

Sales psychology

If you don't show any sign of getting out of the chair they assume they got you and you will sign..........if you walk out it looks bad for them.