BLT Stutter

[ConnorVRS]

Looking for some help from you guys,

I want to fix the stutter at low rpm now from what I've been reading on here the common cure was an egr gasket?

However I can't seem to find where to buy one?

My second thought is to have the egr mapped out, i am wanting to get mapped in a few weeks by shark. Are they able to so this?

Final question, will having the egr mapped out give the same outcome as the gasket? And is having the egr mapped out as effective as an egr delete?

Any help would be really appreciated!

Cheers

Is this possible to have done without the CEL

[Jon_woo]

Mine is currently being mapped (alongside other things) to delete the EGR completely and its the same as removing it or deleting it

[Dean-]

Looking for some help from you guys,

I want to fix the stutter at low rpm now from what I've been reading on here the common cure was an egr gasket?

However I can't seem to find where to buy one?

My second thought is to have the egr mapped out, i am wanting to get mapped in a few weeks by shark. Are they able to so this?

Final question, will having the egr mapped out give the same outcome as the gasket? And is having the egr mapped out as effective as an egr delete?

Any help would be really appreciated!

Cheers

Is this possible to have done without the CEL

 

Turn off ASR for some strange reason I found that helps alot!

[ConnorVRS]

Who is mapping yours Jon? And is yours a BLT like mine?

I've always wondered if mapping out the egr had the same effect as removing it completely? And if so then would cleaning it out before hand have any additional benefits?

An given the current weather and my heavy foot I better keep the asr on

[wja96]

Your best bet is to go to your local Skoda dealer and ask them to fit the new EGR plate. It's a free factory modification. This does help. It comes from the factory with a very small hole and the dealer is supposed to drill it out to 14mm, but from memory leaving it at 9mm is best but drilling it to 11mm doesn't trigger the light on the dashboard and cures the stutter.

There is a sticky about this somewhere.

Alternatively, ask Shark to fit a blanking plate and then map out the light. I would not suggest an EGR delete on a BLT as the anti-shudder on shutdown makes a HUGE difference to your comfort when you turn the engine off.

[silky16v]

Your best bet is to go to your local Skoda dealer and ask them to fit the new EGR plate. It's a free factory modification. This does help. It comes from the factory with a very small hole and the dealer is supposed to drill it out to 7mm, but from memory 5mm is better and doesn't trigger the light on the dashboard.

There is a sticky about this somewhere.

Alternatively, ask Shark to fit a blanking plate and then map out the light. I would not suggest an EGR delete on a BLT as the anti-shudder on shutdown makes a HUGE difference to your comfort when you turn the engine off.

Rubbish you can retain the anti-shudder on a BLT engine and fit an egr delete, and even if you fit a full delete pipe all you do if press the clutch in when u turn engine off to stop the engine from shaking and tbh it's not that bad to even notice

[DubDub]

You can keep the anti shudder valve on the BLT and still delete the egr! http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-1-9-8v-pd105-2-0-16v-tdi-pd-ppd-and-cr-egr-delete-race-pipe.html

Also need this

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/1-9-8v-tdi-pd130-and-pd160-egr-cooler-delete-pipe-for-ibiza-polo-fabia.html

ASV(left) and egr delete(right) on blt

[wja96]

None of the solutions I've seen have worked properly. And the blanking plate solution is the cheapest and easiest to implement.

Your idea of what is tolerable is your idea of tolerable. I know people who are quite happy with SMF solutions that would drive most people mad. I found the 'acceptable' anti-shudder solution unacceptable.

If all you want to do is cure the stutter the 11mm hole in the plate is the best solution as the engine runs smoothly with all the emissions kit still in place. EGR deletes are fine on the ASZ engine but the additional complexity involved with the BLT means you have to make more compromises and given that the 11mm hole solution is basically free and works, why would you waste £110 on an EGR delete pipe?

[wja96]

Part number for the 9mm gasket/plate is 028 131 547 B. Cost is under £3 incl. VAT.

Assuming your car has not already been done, your Skoda dealer should fit this for you for free.

[ConnorVRS]

Thanks for the input so far lads

I've read about the gasket from the dealer however I've heard that some dealers no longer do this and those that do like you say drill to 14mm to meet emissions. Ideally I would like the gasket to be 11/12mm as this seems to give the best results.

With regard to the egr delete I would like to keep the oem look but just disable the egr from operating..

I just wasn't sure if the map would fix the stutter without the gasket

[wja96]

You can reduce the amount of EGR activity with VCDS but it doesn't cure the stutter. Unless you physically block up the hole I don't think the action of the EGR can be overcome just in software otherwise no-one would buy an EGR delete pipe.

To cure the stutter you need to make the hole in the gasket/plate less than the standard 25mm. 14mm is much better, but needs to be less than that to completely remove it. You could ask Shark to fit the 9mm hole part and then map out the resulting warning light on the dash.

I'm getting old and I'm increasingly unwilling to accept any form of behaviour in cars that makes them rattle, shake or generally not work right.

Talk to Ben Wardle at Shark. He's incredibly experienced with these cars and he'll be able to tell you exactly what is or isn't possible and he'll tailor your remap to give the closest results he can to what you want within your budget. Even if you're only paying for a stage 1 standard map, he can still make a few small changes to give you what YOU want.

[alex_e3]

There's often a group buy running on here for EGR delete pipes. Not sure if Joel is still running them now that he's sold his car though. There's no way you should be paying £110 for an EGR delete pipe though!! The group buy price is about a third of that IIRC!

 

Personally I'd buy a blank and then remove it completely. You don't ever have to worry about the sludge of exhaust gasses and oil vapour clogging anything up then.

 

Fitting the correct EGR delete pipe makes no noticeable difference to the running of your car. As has been mentioned above, the ASV is kept in place and still functions as it should.

 

From what I remember, fitting the revised EGR gasket does not completely eliminate the stutter - it simply reduces it. Plus you'll still have to deal with the residue due to the system still being in place...  I know which I'd prefer! Seeing as you're getting the car re-mapped anyway, I think it would be a very unwise decision to leave it in place. They can turn down the levels on the BLT so that it does not throw up the EML.

[DubDub]

This is why to delete it...

 

ASV Before cleaning 

 

EGR Before cleaning

[FLAPPERJACK7]

I have seen much worse. I have seen the whole thing almost completely blocked up on a 250k Bora.

[DubDub]

Still not great that was at 95K

[ConnorVRS]

Really appreciate the help here

 

So from what I can understand it is best to remove the EGR - can anybody point me to the best one to buy please?

 

Apologies if im getting this confused but that would then mean there is no need for the 14mm gasket as it will be blanked off?

 

I can then have the EML mapped out by shark and this gives the best results

 

Again cheers lads

[DubDub]

I got mine from Darkside Developments

 

EGR delete pipe 

 

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-1-9-8v-pd105-2-0-16v-tdi-pd-ppd-and-cr-egr-delete-race-pipe.html

 

Cooler delete pipe

 

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/1-9-8v-tdi-pd130-and-pd160-egr-cooler-delete-pipe-for-ibiza-polo-fabia.html

 

Hope this helps

[Bogwoppit]

If you do buy a gasket and use it, the gasket comes from the dealer with a 9.5mm hole. I found this slightly too small on my Fabia, as it would very occasional trigger a fault code (low flow EGR).

I re-drilled to 11mm as mentioned by wja96 above, and my car runs smoothly and no fault lights have occurred in the last 2 years (since re-drilling the hole).

 

I just did the elephant mod instead of the EGR delete as it's the mixture of EGR and crankcase vapour that creates the sludge IMO.

[alex_e3]

Here's the last group buy thread that Joel did for them...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/320248-egr-delete-group-buy-8-pd100-105-130-140-160-170/page-2

 

I think he may not be doing any more, but you can still contact him directly and he'll be able to sort you out with one for a cheaper price than the Darkside one above.

 

It's worth pointing out that you don't have to remove the EGR cooler if you don't want to. You can just use the blanking plate on it. Although technically it's redundant then, so you'll save a bit of weight by taking it off! You don't need to buy the coolant pipe listed above. Just disconnect the coolant pipe from the cooler, snip the end off it and then just simply connect it up to the existing coolant pipework!

[Breezy_Pete]

I've said this before, but I'll keep saying it until someone persuades me it's wrong.

 

If you want to stop the flow of exhaust gases into the intake, all you need to do is pull the vac pipe off the top of the EGR, the one that goes onto the metal housing. You should plug this hose so you don't cause a vacuum leak that'll affect other systems.

 

From having taken one of these valves off a friend's car, and attempted to open the exhaust-admitting valve by hand for cleaning, there is no way, IMHO, that without vacuum assistance that valve is ever going to open at all and let any exhaust gases in (Edit; if you think about it, it absolutely mustn't open without pull from the vacuum diaphragm, as otherwise it wouldn't be fully controlled in operation). There is a strong spring holding it closed, hence the relatively large vacuum diaphragm used to open it. One proviso would be that the valve and valve seat are clean and undamaged, and therefore not 'wedged' open by soot, but this isn't hard to check/accomplish.

 

Fault light is another issue, of course.

[ConnorVRS]

Cheers lads

 

One thing im thinking if i remove the EGR is will it effect my insurance?

 

is it an easy job to remove EGR and match up the cooler pipework?

 

And does the blanking plate come with the delete kit?

[DubDub]

1. No no increase in power that's noticeable (correct me if im wrong)

 

2. Bit tight on space but not that bad

 

3. yes 

 

Got loads of pictures if you need any help!

[ConnorVRS]

Thanks DubDub

 

Did you declare the EGR delete to your insurance comapny?

[DubDub]

No worries

 

No as it will only reduce inlet temps a bit so not really making any difference to power output. 

 

Make sure to clean the ASV before fitting back together.

 

Plus look into fitting a oil catch can or doing the elephant mod loads of thread on here about both.

[ConnorVRS]

Ill have a look on here later, i cant view images in work :( lol

 

Ive read a fair bit into this elephant mod but could never quite understand what had to be done..

 

Anyone got any pics of their EGR delete & catch can set up?

 

Thanks again