Octavia Scout Rear Shocks - do I need all new?

[silver1011]

Noticed yesterday that the rubber bellows (bump stops?) on the passenger side rear have split. The hard plastic sheath that pushes over the bellow has as a result dropped exposing the shiny ram of the shock.

 

I'm guessing that to replace the rubber bellow the shock needs to come off?

 

If so then for the sake of £80 for a new pair of shocks I'll replace the lot, however if the bellows can be replaced without removing the shock I'll go for the easier option!

 

The car is a 2008 with 50,000 miles. The shocks are still working well, no complaints but I could do without a bill for new shocks if I don't need them.

 

Interestingly all the YouTube video's of the rear shocks on the Octavia show them inside the spring. On my 4x4 they are outside of the spring.

 

This is the good side, although the bellow is beginning to perish / crack...

 

 

This is the bad side, the orange is where the rubber has cracked and flaked off revealing the inner foam material. A bit of the bellow has come away completely and is still inside the plastic tube that has now dropped down the shock...

 

 

Me holding the plastic sheath up where it should be...

 

 

A picture from under the car looking up from the bottom...

 

 

Whats the best thing to do?

Edited 25 January, 2015 by silver1011

[trundlenut]

You need to take the shock off as the bump stops have to cone off the top. IIRC the bolts on the top mount are stretch bolts and the one at the bottom of the shock will be rusty as wotsit so replace all the bolts. You may well need a crows foot spanner to get the top mount off the shocker. Or you can use mole grips but then you can't torque it back up properly.

Did this on my mkI, wasn't too hard, you don't need spring compressors, just use a jack under the spring to compress it while you undo the bolts.

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[silver1011]

Thanks trundlenut, when I saw that the spring didn't have to be compressed I did think about having a go myself but I think I'll be sticking it in the local garage.

 

I have visions of getting half way through and then not being able to get one of the bolts off!

 

Having a look on eurocar parts it looks as though the bolts and bump stops are not included in with the shocks so this will no doubt have to be figured into the cost.

 

I guess I'm looking at the thick end of 300 notes.

 

If the shocks have to come off then it makes sense to replace them too.

[trundlenut]

For the mkI the bump stops were something like £17 each. The bottom bolt is probably the hardest one but once loose it should come off OK. You should be able to each side in under an hour.

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[wiilydog]

It's not a difficult job and half hour max per side for a experience mechanic, if the shocks don't need changing, you may be able to save some time by just droping the above top mount and change the bumpstop with shock still in place but never tried it that way before.

[silver1011]

After a little more digging around (and for your help guys - thanks) it seems that it is quite common place to replace the bump stops and dust covers whilst retaining the original dampers/shocks.

 

It seems the bump stops are a known weak point on the Octavia.

 

They can be had for around £30 a pair, plus an hours labour to fit.

 

[trundlenut]

You only need the bump stops you just slot the guards over the new ones.

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[Guest]

I could be wrong but I think you'll find you've missing top mount bolts, on the good side it's the forward of the two and on the bad side it's the rear plus you've a suspiciously new looking bolt!

I replaced my shocks last year and I've a suspicion there was an extra hole on the mounts but wouldn't put money on it.

[trundlenut]

I could be wrong but I think you'll find you've missing top mount bolts, on the good side it's the forward of the two and on the bad side it's the rear plus you've a suspiciously new looking bolt!

I replaced my shocks last year and I've a suspicion there was an extra hole on the mounts but wouldn't put money on it.

 

Good point.  You need to get the arch liner off for a good look though.

 

The top mount bolts were pretty shiny even after about 8 years on my old car.

[silver1011]

When I was under there I thought exactly the same! There is a hole with no bolt through it, however after pulling the wheelarch liner away there are two bolts holding the top mount in place, the second one is hidden.

I think they look clean because they get a good blast when I wash the car, which incidentally might be what's shortened the life of the bump stops?

[Guest]

The bump stop part number is:

1K0 511 353 F

F being the revision number on a 2006 so you may well get a later letter.

Easy to DIY fit, I used a cable tie to secure the plastic dust shield to the bump stop as it kept slipping off and exposing the chromed damper rod.

[trundlenut]

When I was under there I thought exactly the same! There is a hole with no bolt through it, however after pulling the wheelarch liner away there are two bolts holding the top mount in place, the second one is hidden.

I think they look clean because they get a good blast when I wash the car, which incidentally might be what's shortened the life of the bump stops?

I think it is more that they are exposed to the elements and have the plastic guard dangling from them which wobbles around a lot.

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[wiilydog]

here's a guide to change them with shocks still on the car and just by removing the top mounts

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/322550-rear-bump-stops-done-easier-than-i-thought/

[silver1011]

Thanks wiilydog, good find!

 

I've posted a few questions on that thread too but as it's old I'm guessing I might not get a response, in which case I'll be back!

[Guest]

For the sake of 1 bolt holding the lower damper I would remove it and get to grips with it properly.

That guide isn't a short cut it's a waste of time fiddling about.

Hoik car up and secure, wheel off is an option but recommended.

Remove both upper mounting bolts, no need to remove arch liner just move it aside, be careful as the bolts go in at an odd angle.

Remove lower mounting bolt and remove the damper to do the job properly.

You'll most likely need vice grips at the very top of the damper rod while you remove the nut, use thick card to prevent scratching the chromed surface. If you do scratch the chrome, dress it with a fine file and give it a smear if grease on reassembly to protect from the elements.

An easy job and not worth the hassle tackling it in situ.

[Guest]

Tighten the damper rod but back up tight, again using the grips with protection.

The flats being mentioned are the end shape on the damper rod which you can grip to prevent it rotating when you turn the nut, only thing is you cannot grip it unless you have a deep offset ring spanner. Use grips and a socket.

I can't tell you the torque setting for the upper and lower damper bolts off hand but not king kong tight.

Edited 26 January, 2015 by MicMac

[wiilydog]

If you plan to remove the shock absorber from the car you will find the lower bolt is restricted by spring, so you will end  up removing another bolt to drop the spring tray to remove the spring before the lower shock absorber bolt can be accessed, as a spanner does not give enough leverage to remove the lower bolt as these are pretty tight.

 

I completely removed the liner as it gives you a better view of what you are doing, as I wanted to ensure the socket was fully square to the bolts as it will be easy to round the bolts due to odd angle

Edited 27 January, 2015 by wiilydog

[brad1.8T]

If you plan to remove the shock absorber from the car you will find the lower bolt is restricted by spring, so you will end  up removing another bolt to drop the spring tray to remove the spring before the lower shock absorber bolt can be accessed, as a spanner does not give enough leverage to remove the lower bolt as these are pretty tight.

 

I completely removed the liner as it gives you a better view of what you are doing, as I wanted to ensure the socket was fully square to the bolts as it will be easy to round the bolts due to odd angle

You don't have to remove the spring

 

Undo the bolt until the thread is disengaged, then rote the shock 90 degrees with the bolt in it.  It's tight but do-able

[silver1011]

Just out of curiosity I rang my local Skoda dealer for a quote to replace both rear bump stops...

 

£202.08 inclusive of parts, labour and VAT.

[trundlenut]

Just out of curiosity I rang my local Skoda dealer for a quote to replace both rear bump stops...

£202.08 inclusive of parts, labour and VAT.

I realised one of mine had gone last night. I have bodged it back together with zip ties for now. I rang TPS at lunch and they want £43 for the bump stops, top mount bolts and the nuts for the top of the shockers.

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[silver1011]

So that is £163 for fitting then, assuming the Skoda dealers prices are similar.

[trundlenut]

So that is £163 for fitting then, assuming the Skoda dealers prices are similar.

At say 2 hours and £80/hour labour then that is not that outlandish.

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[nickguzzi]

My local garage charged 1/2 hr labour and I think about £15 per foamy thing last year.

[silver1011]

Now I have the Skoda price I'm going to ring my local garage too.

[sniper29a]

lift the wheel - remove shock and replace damage parts if shocks still work ;-) First time job, it will take longer - perhaps a half day?