Electric window and CL unit wet.... and G17 air temp sensor problems.

[eka567k]

Hi All

I have had some funny behavior on my 2004 Octavia VRS recently. Central didn't work on the drivers door, micro switch on the drivers door was intermittent and the led light by the door lock indicator was always on. I traced this back to a wet connector for the control module in the door which i have since removed as it was smoking and running my battery flat!!!

But another thing that has happened is the temperature on the dash display and the climate control is reading 10C below actual. I removed (what i think is) the environment sensor from under front valance and the temp is still reading 10C below ambient. Is there another temp sensor somewhere or do I need to put a new one on to 'reboot' it.

 

Also is there any way of cleaning up the connectors for the CL control module and loom or do i have to replace it? the module has probably been shorting for a few days. And how do I remove the white clips holding the loom on, a good hard pull? 

 

[YellowCar]

You may find this useful, for future protection if nothing else. It looks like the female plugs in the block are a bit corroded, male pins don't look too bad but the unit itself may be too far gone.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/336309-how-to-check-and-protect-your-door-multiplugs/

Your led light could be a knock on effect of water ingress, and you say the multiplug was smoking? Could be fried. Check sections of the loom for other damage. Microswitch has been talked about alot lately, there's a how to on replacement, or its a new lock mech (or used if you dare). Your temp sensor issue I can't really help with I'm afraid.

[eka567k]

Thanks for the reply. Any idea where the aftermarket door membranes came from? mine is pretty trashed now.

[YellowCar]

Think I saw them on www.skodaparts.com should have some tthere. Google should be pretty helpful also.

[YellowCar]

This is well timed it seems

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/341574-central-locking-led-on-door-on-all-the-time/

[pikpilot]

But another thing that has happened is the temperature on the dash display and the climate control is reading 10C below actual. I removed (what i think is) the environment sensor from under front valance and the temp is still reading 10C below ambient. Is there another temp sensor somewhere or do I need to put a new one on to 'reboot' it.

 

Also is there any way of cleaning up the connectors for the CL control module and loom or do i have to replace it? the module has probably been shorting for a few days. And how do I remove the white clips holding the loom on, a good hard pull? 

 

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Your corrosion is slightly less than on mine, which I cleaned up and got working this afternoon. See link to my post in YellowCar's post #5 above.

Take a close look again at your last photo. It seems to me that the middle row pin on the left hand side has corroded away and may no longer be able to reach the mating contact. This is the +12 V feed pin. You may be able to break it off/drill it out and put in something to take its place that is longer. Nothing will work when there is no connection on this pin.

 

On the question of climatronic display, the unit reads the temperature in two places  - the bumper sensor and the fresh air intake.

I have a list or error codes which gives:

Error Code 030B   Outside Temperature Sensor – Front Bumper

Error Code 0313  Temperature Sensor – Fresh Air Inlet

 

Treat these numbers with caution as they are from an earlier model but it least it may indicate your problem could be the fresh air intake temperature sensor. Search my previous posts on how to do the self test on the climatronic unit if you don't know.

 

For the loom clip I would just snip it in the middle with a pair of side-cutters then wiggle the cable through the gap. Reinforce the cable at that point if you use the clip again as it will have sharp edges.

 

Best of luck with your problems. As a guide it took me just over four hours from taking out the first screw to putting it back again but includes a lot of head scratching and testing at each stage of re-assembly.

[eka567k]

Thanks for the help. Will probably be a good job to get done this weekend. Will be a little chilly though. Brrrrrrr.

[eka567k]

I have scanned the car for error codes using one of these Bluetooth dongle things and torque software on my phone and nothing has come up. but im not sure if that will run a decent diagnostic any ways. Anyone had any luck with these?

[YellowCar]

I can't even to get my dongle to talk to the ecu lol, tried 2 now.

[AndyPants]

I had the same problem with my air temperature being around 10 deg C below what it should be. I found this thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/308536-outsideambientclimatroinc-temp-sensor-problems/ very helpful.

 

Basically my faulty sensor was the one in the air box intake. You can see the sensor when you remove the pollen filter but you can't actually replace it from there. To replace it you will need to remove the glovebox, and I also loosened the bottom panel and took out the blower motor to try and aid access (although the latter probably wasn't necessary, but it did mean I could take a peek inside to see the airbox from inside the car).

 

To remove the sensor you will need to rotate it 90 degrees and push it through, i loosened it and then felt the wires around the left side of the dash board until I could feel which one it was and then finally carefully pulled it out. It was very fiddly! Putting in the new sensor was even worse, some people I've read used an old hose to pull it back into place - I had no such hose. Instead I feed a series of small cable ties through the airbox at the top and then carefully pulled them down the left side of the dash, then for ultimate bodgery I attached some twisted strong detailers blue masking tape to the end of the sensor, plugged the new sensor in and carefully pulled it back through the top. Trying to get it at the right angle back into the airbox took a lot of patience and was very fiddly and annoying but got there in the end. Finally just need to rotate it again (and remove my bodgy masking tape!) and hey presto my temp guages were about correct as confirmed by the climatronic diagnostics.

 

I actually found that the bumper sensor made no obvious difference to my climatronic/dash normal readings.

 

I'd also order a new sensor as this job is such a pain in the backside, although be careful as the original second hand sensor I bought off eBay was a slightly earlier type which was angled unlike the one that came out. It also had different sized pins and  the sensors 'prong' was as slightly different shape. I ended up buying a new genuine one for circa £20ish They don't make it easy!

 

I'd echo the comments about doing the diagnostic test to ensure which sensor is faulty. You can get live readings which is pretty cool, I only checked it afterwards and I could see post-fix each sensor had a slightly different reading, but all in the same region = job done

 

Good luck!