Central Locking Led On Door On All The Time

[pikpilot]

It started seven days ago. First the red led was glowing dimly all the time. Then it started to glow when the doors were locked and the led was flashing. After a few days the background light was brighter and then after 4 days the driver's door could not be opened with the remote. Everything else was working perfectly - puddle light, door open display, mirrors, windows etc  Luckily the driver's door could be opened with the key - and would still lock with the remote!

 

Having read the many stories of corrosion in the connector at the back of the window winder motor, and which carries the wires for the central locking, I decided to take a look.

 

There are many photos on other threads in this forum which show corrosion of both the male and female part of the connector. Sure enough, mine was the same but not as bad as some. I cleaned up the parts with switch cleaner and also inside the female contacts. All the pins and sockets look like new after I had finished, but just to make sure I cut down a plastic haired small paint brush to make a stipple brush to clean the pins in the connector on the winder motor. I put it back enough to do a test and nothing worked. 

 

Other threads mention the red/yellow wire (12V feed) that is connected the end pin of the middle row. During my stippling, this pin had disappeared! I guess that is the place where corrosion will be heaviest as it is sat in water (lowest point) and has 12V on it longer than the other pins. I found this thread helpful (starting from post 22)

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/222541-central-locking-problem-help-needed/

 

but I could not get the connector off the motor. The problem is releasing the catches round the back  - the gap to the door skin is tight.

 

The only step worth taking in the short term is to try to replace the pin. I figured the red light was being lit by current tracking between pins via the corrosion products so the red/yellow wire may not be that corroded.

 

So I wondered if I could make a new pin that I could push up into the wire and make connection. 

I looked in my electronic component spares boxes and found a 3W Zenner diode with thicker lead out wires than normal as they are used for cooling the component. I pushed it into the female contact (in the male plug) first to see if it would fit. It didn't but I made it fit by cutting a 60 degree slope on the lead. I then pushed this up into the wire in the other connector to replace the missing pin, then cut it to the right length and put a 60 deg slope on the end.

 

Long story but now it was time to put back the connector and make a test. I wanted to leave the door open initially in case it locked permanently but, using the remote, the other doors operated normally and the driver's door made noise when pressing open. So I put back enough to allow me to close the driver's door and tried gain. All doors locked and unlocked as they should.

 

I then put put back all the trim and door controls and switches, and the mirror controls. Everything still worked so I screwed the lot back as normal. Full set of tests on all controls - everything back to factory function.

 

I don't know how long this zero cost repair will last but it has at least bought me time. However, I expect it to last several years.

 

Just a minor point - many threads say you need a T10 bit to take the seven screws out from around the door. On mine I needed a  T15 bit.

 

Many thanks to all the other Briskodians who pointed me in the right direction with their posts.

[eka567k]

Thanks for this!