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Guide for changing water pump on a 1.3L carburettor felicia (Steps with photos)


raedalbandak

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Hi,

 

Since this forum is of great value and benefit to all members including me, I like to add this thread as a gratitude from me to all of you here.

 

It all started after flushing the cooling system and renewing the coolant, the water pump has given up after 271000 Kms of service and started to leak coolant significantly and therefore it needed replacement.

 

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These photos show the water leakage from the factory fabricated hole as it appears from above and beneath the engine bay.

 

 

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Was busy at work and around the house for much of the time, here are the steps i did to replace the water pump:

 

 

  1. Park the car on level ground, apply the hand brakes and engage 1st gear, also make sure to secure the car from moving by locking the rear wheels.
  2. Disconnect the car battery (-negative clamp). DSC00086.gif
  3. Slightly slacken the front right wheel nuts.
  4. Raise the car using a hydraulic trolley. I placed a brick beneath it to ensure a sufficient height to work underneath.DSC00087.gif  
  5. Place an axle stand just below the rear big bush of the right wishbone then lower the car slowly until the car sits securely on the axle stand.DSC00089.gifDSC00092.gif
  6. Remove the wheel and the small rubber gourmet from the inner wing that hides behind the big bolt which holds and locks the engine mount bushing integrated in theDSC00093.gif DSC00094.gif
Edited by raedalbandak
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7. Undo the clips then undo the 4 nuts holding the air filter housing cover then remove the cover and the filter element.

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8. Slacken the breather hose clamp then remove the hose from the cylinder head cover.

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9. Undo the three bolts that hold the lower part of the air filter housing to the carburettor then remove it including the air intake hose.

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Edited by raedalbandak
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10. Unclip the two clamps that hold the distributor cap.

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11. Remove the HT cable from the coil then put aside the cap without removing the HT leads.

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12. Pull out the vacuum hose from the distributor's vacuum advance and retard diaphragm.

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13. Slacken the bolt and nut for tightening and loosening the alternator-water pump v-belt then slightly push the alternator back and remove the v-belt from the pulleys.

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14. Slacken the upper clamp that holds the large water hose to the water pump using a socket with a long reach or a flat screw driver. You can access it from underneath the car or from above from the space between the firewall and the water pump beneath the battery.

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15. Undo and remove the bolt that attaches the metal cooling pipe to the oil pan.

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16. Slacken the metal clamp around the coolant hose connected to the automatic chock then pull away the hose. After that, carefully pull down the metal cooling pipe from underneath the car just enough to take out the large cooling hose from the water pump. You do not need to disconnect the cooling pipe from the radiator or the coolant hose attached to the heater matrix beside the battery.

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17. Slightly loosen the nut and bolt that attach the gearbox-side engine rubber mount to the car body. Also loosen the big bolt and nut of the rubber mount from underneath the car.This step is very important with the next step to freely tilt the engine up from the engine bay from the water pump side. 

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18. Place the hydraulic trolley jack beneath the gearbox near the bell house surrounding the flywheel. Slightly support the gearbox with the jack then completely loosen and undo the bolt and nut that attaches the gearbox-differential rubber mount to the car sub-frame. This step is very important to freely raise the engine up from the engine bay.

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19. Place the hydraulic trolley jack and a wood block between the jack arm and the engine oil pan then slightly support the engine.

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20. Completely loosen then remove the nut from the water pump rubber engine mount. While jiggling the engine, slide the big bolt sideway out of the mount's rubber bush through the hole in the inner wing. Very slightly adjust the engine lift upwards or downwards if removing the bolt was hard at first.

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21. After completely removing the bolt, carefully raise the engine with the trolley jack until it is barely easy to reach the four bolts that holds the water pump to the engine head with an open ended spanner wrench or a small ratchet and socket.  

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Good photos, nice guide.

Two small critics:

- using hollow bricks to support the car may be dangerous

- the GIF format for photos has two drawbacks compared to JPG format: the file size is bigger and has only 256 colors.

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Thanks Ricardo for your remarks. I absolutely agree with you regarding the hollow brick. I used it for a short while before removing the wheel in order to put the axle stand. I recommend using a bigger trolley Jack for it is safer.

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I guess I forgot a very important step at the beginning. The coolant must be drained from the cooling system. There is a bolt in the metal cooling pipe that needs to be removed for drainage.

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22. After raising the engine as described in the previous step, loosen and remove the four nuts that holds the water pump to the engine head. I preferred to do the lowest one from under the car.

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23. The big bracket that attaches the pump to the car body must be removed before removing the pump because it gets in the way as shown in the next photo. Also, it becomes much easier to fit and tighten the new pump properly. To do this, loosen and remove the three big bolts that attach the bracket to the car body. These bolts can be accessed and undone using a ratchet and a socket with long extensions from underneath the car. These three bolts appear in the previous photo. 

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24.After removing the bracket, gently pull out the water pump from the carrying studs (Be careful not to use force, it could damage the studs or the cylinder head). You may need to jack the engine upwards more to remove the water pump because there is not much space between the pump pulley and the car body as shown in the next photo.

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25. Clean out with a fine wire brush the residues of the old gasket and dirt from the cylinder head-water pump interface and the 4 studs.

26. Try fitting the new gasket provided with the new water pump because I found out that the diameter of the upper hole in the new gasket was not wide enough for the stud to go through. I had to do that myself :whew: .

27. Apply very thin layers of High temperature gasket maker (Good brand only) on the cylinder head, both sides of gasket and pump interface.

28. Slowly fit the new gasket on the four studs then gently push it until it meets the cylinder head surface.

29. Gently slide the pump in place until it meets the gasket, place four new washers on the studs then tighten four new bolts by hand then tighten them alternately using an offset ring wrench. Tightening to a specified torque is difficult here because one can not fit a torque wrench. Just make sure to tighten them equally and not too much.

30. Reattach the big bracket to the car body but keep the bolts loose. Don't tighten them yet.

31. Lower the engine slowly making sure the water pump rubber engine mount slides in place in the middle of the bracket arms, then refit the big bolt through the eye of the rubber bush and tighten the nut sufficiently. 

32. Reattach the bolt and nut that attaches the gearbox-differential rubber mount to the car sub-frame and tighten the nut sufficiently. Finely adjust the jack to the correct height here. 

33. Tighten the nut and bolt that attach the gearbox-side engine rubber mount to the car body then tighten the big bolt and nut of the rubber mount from underneath the car.

34. Attach the big coolant hose to the pump and tighten the metal clamp, put back and tighten the bolt that attaches the metal cooling pipe to the oil pan. Refit and tighten the coolant drainage bolt on the metal cooling pipe. 

34. Lower the engine and remove the trolley jack. Now, completely tighten the three big bolts that attach the big bracket to the car body.

35. Attach the coolant hose to the automatic chock and tighten the metal clamp.

36. Refit a new v-belt around the water pump, alternator and crankshaft pulleys. Make sure to make enough tension of the belt by slightly pushing forward the alternator using a small lever placed between the alternator and the engine then completely tighten the bolt and nut for tightening and loosening the alternator -water pump v-belt.

37. Put back the distributor cap, vacuum hose, HT cable.

38. Put back the air filter housing, element and cover in place over the carburettor. Refit the engine breather hose and tighten its clamp.

39. Refit the wheel, slightly raise the car and remove the axle stand. Completely lower the car and tighten the wheel nuts.

 

From here I will add the steps that our friend Ricardo recommends to fill the cooling system with coolant and getting rid of air pockets. Use only specified coolant from a good brand. Never use tap water. This really lengthens the service life of the water pump and many more engine parts (radiator, automatic chock, engine block, head gasket, cylinder head,...). 

 

1. Park the car slightly uphill or raise front axle about 20 cm (8 inches).

2. Remove coolant temperature sensor.

3. Start filling the expansion tank with coolant.

4. When coolant with no bubbles starts to flow through the hole, install the temperature sensor.

5. Place the cap on expansion tank.

6. Reconnect the negative clamp of the car battery. 

6. Start the engine and let it run at idle till the radiator fan kicks in.

7. Stop the engine and let it cool down completely.

8. Add coolant in the expansion tank till half way between MIN and MAX marks.

      

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello again,

 

Just wanted to check what coolant brands, grades or pre-mixtures this forum members use for their Felicia 1.3L engines.

I found that using the blue HEPU P999 concentrate mixed with distilled water (30%concentrate:70% distilled water) gives very good results in terms of protection from scaling and dirt-build up in the cooling system. Also, it is cheap. I renew the coolant every two years.    

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

Hello,

 

I've been trying to remove the water pump on my 98' Felicia but the pump is stuck onto the engine block (all four nuts are off). I've been trying to wedge it off/hit it off but no luck. And while raising the engine the exhaust manifold pipe contacts the frame lifting the rest of the car.

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