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is this normal?


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http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/345651-dyno-results-disappointing-and-confusing-any-ideas/page-3

Most charts on page 3, think there's some on page 2 and 4 as well. May give you an idea for some comparison. Hope it helps. Note logging should generally be done in 3rd with wide open throttle (not always practical) but in your case if you log in general driving and open throttle until you've had problem this may give enough info.

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If you go into the spreadsheet on laptop and insert, graph, 2 line graph it will plot them. I still haven't figured out how to get engine speed on the bottom axis but should still give you some info. I did all mine with lite, it is the full version though.

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Ah ok, are you able to select groups,get to start measuring, drive and then save? Think you have as you've had a spreadsheet full of numbers. Sorry I can't open the link as I'm sure I'd know where you're at.

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Just go into engine.

Measuring

In group put number, 3 is 003, 31 is 031 etc

Click log I think

Click save then select a folder for the data, I made one for them but you don't have to.

click start

Drive, when done (pull over!) click stop. Close controller, saves to that destination automatically as an excel file. When you open them up its an excel spreadsheet. Get a graph do as described (insert, graph, 2 line).

There's also guidance online and on Ross tech website I think.

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Thought that might be the case, I think the trial version used to include logging but not anymore. Kind of forgotten where we're at now, you've checked maf, done visual on pipework...are you trying plugs next and maybe ringing the mappers? Would have thought someone can help with vcds, shame I'm not closer. Here's a thought that would get it diagnosed pretty dam quick, Badger 5 is in your area and he knows these engines inside out, talking £60ish for a diagnostics session. A bit of a spend but could be a quick way to a solution.

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yeah just checking out badger 5 earlier i will ring them tomorrow only down the road too,  yep pipework checked best i could, maf, throttle body, plugs will be done this week too, 

 

i have check with a few members but nothing so far for help,  i dnt think its terminal just annoying im not sure what it is!

 

really appreciate ur advice  

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so just spoke to badge 5, .......but unfortunately the guy is maxed out till mid- end of july/!   he did say it sounded air leaky suggested checking inlet manifold pipe under there.  also one for the pcv valve. suggested a smoke test,   so need to find someone who can do a smoke test localish! 

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Sounds like a plan, don't think places charge too much for a smoke test. Should be a few around. Yeah under the inlet manifold is a bit of a minefield. It could be some of the pipes attachrd under the metal bracket as these are lines for the n249 which has something to do with vacuum (forgive my lack of technical knowledge). As mechanics and such remove the bracket to check and fix things in that area the pipework gets pulled around. And yes the 90 degree elbow behind dipstick, lower breather (which comes down from the big y pipe alongside crankcase, sort of a stretched S shape). The one way valve and 90 elbow can get clogged up as well, so it could be something like that being restrictive rather than a split...Smoke test be good though. Ring your local garage, if they don't have the equipment I'm sure they'll know who does, or someone will...

The fact badger is so busy is testament to how good they are, keep them in mind for any future work that isn't such an emergency. Quality remaps too and great mechanics on vag.

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so car is back from " md performance."  said they scanned everything only one issue "ecu fault code 1"   im waiting for the actual code off him but so far nothing,  He says to get it remapped.  and is safe to drive,   Any way rang badger 5 up again queried this,  says they need the fault code to see if it was ok to remap. 

 

Now "md performance" have range again to tell me that it might sort my issue if i unconnect the positive lead for 5 mins off battery. now this made me wonder about them, i cant see this would work, but in for a penny!  

 

rang aldon automotive to find out what was put on there, nothing so far from them, one thing i was told to check last was the dv valve by R tech. stick my tongue on top part, finger under to push up spring and suck, if it hold up all good, if it falls bad!  i need to get some clips to clip hoses back on tho. 

 

so where am i, sounds like needing a new map

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Don't panic yet, find out what the code is first. If the map is the issue you'd be entitled to get aldon to revert it to standard for free I'd have thought. Then run it properly until you can get it mapped again. Disconnecting the battery will clear the code but don't be surprised if it doesn't cure it, but like you say it can't hurt.

Forgot about the dv actually. What's on there is it standard diaphragm (like a black plastic thing) or is it alloy? Do you have a very loud tsss when you come off gas following boost? Not an atmospheric dump valve is it? Mind you if you're looking at those awful one use clips its probably standard. But yes the test is easier if you take it off, don't have to put your tongue on top your finger will do. If it drops notably or completely then yes, an issue there.

Not sure why md didn't give you the actual code? Should imagine they had vcds/vag com

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black dv valve ill try it tomorrow, not that i hold up hope.  ill be going over the road before i finish get the code i need to know what the issue is. but as badger said if it was v bad ecu would've shut down by now. 

 

aldon were not keen reading between the lines im not the owner at the time so im fooked,.  think ill save up a few pounds get badger bill to do it right. if md tested it correctly then he says the car other than the ecu is spot on,  but i have a small doubt on them now,

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my car was doing that for months , i checked and changed all stuff mentioned above and when i replaced the crappy vacuum hoses with new silicone ones problem sorted , i'd bet there is a torn or ripped hose somewhere you havnt found .

It would accelerate normally till about 4000rpm a,drop off then resume again as normal 

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so he never smoked checked the hoses !  going back in again tomorrow with car for him to get me the ecu code gunna insist he smoke check hoses too , need to rule out everything

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black dv valve ill try it tomorrow, not that i hold up hope.  ill be going over the road before i finish get the code i need to know what the issue is. but as badger said if it was v bad ecu would've shut down by now. 

 

aldon were not keen reading between the lines im not the owner at the time so im fooked,.  think ill save up a few pounds get badger bill to do it right. if md tested it correctly then he says the car other than the ecu is spot on,  but i have a small doubt on them now,

Indeed, you've had no limp mode so ecu isn't too concerned. With md sometimes you get that feeling with places. He probably would have only read and cleared the codes.

my car was doing that for months , i checked and changed all stuff mentioned above and when i replaced the crappy vacuum hoses with new silicone ones problem sorted , i'd bet there is a torn or ripped hose somewhere you havnt found .

It would accelerate normally till about 4000rpm a,drop off then resume again as normal

Could well be that some are hard to spot, smoke/pressure test will get it though.

so he never smoked checked the hoses !  going back in again tomorrow with car for him to get me the ecu code gunna insist he smoke check hoses too , need to rule out everything

Getting that code and a smoke test are your best next steps, pretty sure one or the other will show something significant. At the end of the day I know it's a bind but it will get it sorted and you can drive the car as it is. We'll get to the bottom of it one way or the other don't worry.

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^^True that, my nearest one is in a tiny garage at the back of a barely populated village. Probably more likely to find one in a repair centre than a tuning place.

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