Jump to content

Misfiring cylinder one


Recommended Posts

Yep.

Or you could just disconnect the flap from the mechanism and fix it in the cold-only position for the coming months at least, if not forever.

 

I used Volvo part number 1266826, like this one (except from a UK seller) with a few (3?) mm cut off the end of the pin, 'cos the whole thing was a bit longer.

 

Not sure what to suggest with the readiness code, surely if all those things were currently faulty, you'd have lots of codes for them?  Secondary air injection will come up as working OK, 'cos you don't have that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just swapped the cables from ignition coil 1 to 2 and vice versa, and when I turned the ignition the engine was shaking really bad and stalled but no error codes were logged?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn't sound like a good plan to me; timing of the input signals to the two 'mis-fed' coilpacks will be all wrong, won't it, hence the shaking. Surprised it started at all.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On so I have found the problem, can you only find out by testing the continuity then? It shouldn't be coil packs or spark plugs as they are new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I mean is, you altered the firing order so the engine wouldn't run, you needed to physically swap over the coil pack between 1 and 2 but keep the wiring in the same orientation to see if the misfire followed the coil pack, not just swap the wiring over between them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know this I've determined coil pack 1 was faulty, replaced all spark plugs and coil packs, I only it isn't necessary to replace everything but a lot of people have recommend it to me. I was intending on finding out with the wiring was faulty by seeing if cylinder 2 misfired when wiring swapped. I didn't know it would affect it like it did, just trying to determine my problem, considering buying injector pullers and cleaning my injectors, engine flush, new oil and filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cylinder 1 misfire appeared again today. Also when taking off in low RPM the engine sounds like its rattling. Maybe the thermal valve in my engine cover is dodgy or the EGR is blocked? It just doesn't like idling lol.

Is it a pink, pink, pink... noise?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it a pink, pink, pink... noise?

 

That was just what I was going to ask, in an earlier posting you, (OP) said rattling noise coming from engine while moving away, I'd reckon that that was pinking - so, is your car drinking lots of oil? If so, it might be an air/oil separator problem, that was why wife's Polo 1.4 16V BBY was doing a lot of pinking under load at about 1800RPM.

 

Or, are you accidentally loading it up with far too much oil? (checking oil level on that engine accurately is an art - it should not be though!)

Edited by rum4mo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That was just what I was going to ask, in an earlier posting you, (OP) said rattling noise coming from engine while moving away, I'd reckon that that was pinking - so, is your car drinking lots of oil? If so, it might be an air/oil separator problem, that was why wife's Polo 1.4 16V BBY was doing a lot of pinking under load at about 1800RPM.

Or, are you accidentally loading it up with far too much oil? (checking oil level on that engine accurately is an art - it should not be though!)

Well providing I think the dipsticks are rubbish and it takes several attempts to actually get a accurate reading, I don't think it's an oil drinker. In fact, I've topped up once since I've bought it a few months a go. But I wouldn't say its a "pink" noise, I'll try get a recording.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well that is one area that should not be causing you problems as you are saying that you don't need to add lots of oil, I'm suggesting 0.5 litre every 1000 miles is a lot of oil BTW - just as a ball park figure to gauge your car against.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's probably lower than that.

I'm going to flush my engine next week anyway, can't imagine the previous owners have been using superunleaded. I do have a feeling it will be something to do with not getting enough air when idling as it only ever goes into limp mode when warmed up and idling. It's fine when cool. Turning the engine off for a few seconds and back on again sorts it, although I can't imagine it doing the engine any good at all. How would I go about cleaning out the 'pipe that connects to the throttle body from the egr(?)' and is there anything else you can suggest I try?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As said already and not accurately enough by me, it is not the EGR or its pipes that normally get clogged up, it is the where the EGR valve pipe connects to the Throttle Body or an interface plate between it and the inlet manifold. Conditions are very nasty at that point, so you have hot dirty exhaust gases mixing with colder nasty oil inlet air in the plenum area of the inlet manifold, result is that the soot etc and oily mist combine and choke the port this pipe fits onto.

 

So, what I did was to remove the fixings for the throttle body, remove the EGR valve pipe securing bolts, remove the bolt from the EGR valve pipe support which hides under the plastic water pipes area, ease up the throttle body and move the pipe away from it a bit, then you can see where the pipe goes and if its port is choked, poke etc clear and clean the area with carb cleaner. If you leave the wiring connected to the throttle body and don't try to move the flap you should not need to use VCDS on it. As an extra bit of maintenance maybe remove the MAP sensor and clean it with brake cleaner without blasting the cleaner directly into it, the MAP sensor hides on the driver's side of the inlet manifold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I to buy anything just in case?

Now we know there is a noise, hearing it is pretty critical.

 

@Rum4mo and I have got different ideas about what it might be, and they'll sound different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like a mechanical rattling noise coming from the engine when taking off in low rpm, particularly when in limp mode, it almost sounds like its straggling, takes off rather slow until it reaches the 4krpm range and then it goes quickly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I need to replace my coolant, been topping it up with RO water as I have a slight leak. But I don't want to do this until I've fixed the leak, bottom of the engine and the sump looks oily and there's what looks like a ball joint coming from one of my wheels that leaks when the wheel is off the ground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Change the engine coolant temperature sensor, sounds like yours is goosed, then do an ECU reset by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

I'll give that a go thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Change the engine coolant temperature sensor, sounds like yours is goosed, then do an ECU reset by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

I'm having trouble finding this sensor, is it the lambda one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.