Some electronic issue

[Ackeofsweden]

Rum4mo: Exactly what he told me he was doing

[KenONeill]

Is this not just due to the "way it was said/written" ie, did the mechanic not just do what is normally suggested to clear faults and clear some memory locations, ie "disconnect battery and short the leads together for a minute or two" - as opposed to sparking the battery -ve terminal back to the car earth? Just a thought that is all to avoid the OP raging at his mechanic.

Well, if I caught a mechanic shorting wires rather than using a fault reader or lappie and VCDS to clear faults on my car, I'd break his fingers. Point taken?

[fabdavrav]

He unplugged the "-" from the battery then I put a screwdriver between them. So the minus wasn't connected to the battery.

He said that he erased some memories or something

 

Ok so he removes the "-" cable which connects the battery to the car body, this is ok. But what did put the screwdriver between? Which "-" & "+"..............If he had the main cable still connected to the battery "+" at this time & then placed the screwdriver between the + & - with the battery still in the circuit on the + side then be has shorted out/back fried the circuits.

 

Did he remove the battery + cable as well? & what exact points did connect with the screwdriver?

 

Do this on new VAG car you will fry the battery control module.................not a very clever thing to ever do on a car. I always disconnect & leave for 30mins if I don't have my VCDS

[Breezy_Pete]

I thought about saying something like that ^. But then I concluded that once the negative post of the battery is disconnected from everything by removal of the clamp/cable (which is what I understand the OP to have done), then the battery is out of the system, incapable of supplying current to anything. So no different to removing both leads and then shorting the leads together. :think:

[fabdavrav]

I thought about saying something like that ^. But then I concluded that once the negative post of the battery is disconnected from everything by removal of the clamp/cable (which is what I understand the OP to have done), then the battery is out of the system, incapable of supplying current to anything. So no different to removing both leads and then shorting the leads together. :think:

 

I know but removing the earth cable from the battery "-" & shorting it to the battery "+" it not what I call best practice. I would remove both cables from battery & connect together. if I was feeling that way

[Breezy_Pete]

Yeah, I think I'd sooner wait half an hour whilst having a nice cup of tea.

 

However, the OP no longer has that choice so...

 

...does anyone have Mk1 Fabia instrument cluster, un-fitted, that they could look at and see if there are any fuses evident on whatever circuit board(s) can be seen?

 

I can only imagine that this is a blown fuse, caused by the sudden high current flowing 'backwards' through the short.The OP has checked (visually at least) the seemingly relevant ones that are external to the clocks.

 

If it was my car, I would go through every fuse, one by one measuring for near-zero resistance, in both the cabin and battery-top fuseboxes, just to be sure that there isn't one that affects the instrument cluster that isn't listed as such in the manual.

 

Good luck Acke, and please let us know the solution when it happens.

[Ackeofsweden]

He disconnected the "-" from the battery before he put them toghether.

Thank you Wino and everybody for all help.. I will keep your guys updated. He still got the car and he will try to change the ECU box. I haven't heard from him. But he said he will fix it. Or else he will buy the car.

[Ackeofsweden]

He asked for some code for the ECU. He change the ECU but need some kind of code. Where can I find that. I don't have it on my extra keys. Do you really need that code?

[KenONeill]

I think the ECU code he needs can only be obtained from a Skoda dealership, and you'll need proof of ownership to get it.