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wheel alignment feedback please


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I've been hearing this sound coming from the back, at around 30 mph, sounds like a lumpy tyre. Tyres on rear are goodyears Eagle F1 AS2's, with around 4-5mm tread left fitted 25k ago.

 

On checking the rear offside, the outer edge seems seemed to be sawtoothed slightly, and the wear on both rears looked pretty even, to my eyes.

 

I had a hunter 4 wheel alignment done which is shown below:

 

wheel alignment Aug 15012.pdf

 

 

Are these settings ok and was the cause of the sawtoothing due to the alignment before?

Will this solve the sawtoothing now on the rear offside?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

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Thanks Mike, we can always rely on you here :thumbup:

 

The previous alignment was done in Oct 2014, but despite my best efforts to avoid all those flaming bumps and holes, this is what happened!

 

That's my 3rd alignment since March 2014, around 35k ago.

 

Looking at the rear left, you could clearly see it was out, which I had seen, but not really seen if you know what I mean! I must be more trusting of my eyesight in future!

 

Cheers

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you could move the rears to the front and wear them out quicker.

 

I have same car and tyres and have set rear to about -1deg 20min camber and toe in 9min each side which is supposed to minimize the dreaded sawtoothing.

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back left was fuxored and i still wouldn't be happy with -1.5 even though it's in the green.  Maybe it's at the limit of adjustment?

 

For most people that just run along motorways rather than windy roads, I'd aim for -1.

 

For the number of alignments you've had, I'd be having a good look at the rear arms for a slight deformation & also the bushes for compression / wear.  I'd also have a good look at the adjustment eccentrics as they might be moving.

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i get it rechecked in 2wks and i will ask the questions re arms and bushes,

Hopefully the readings will still be the same and not any different, if so it may indicate a problem?

 

So what settings are recommended for 50% city driving and 50% mway?

 

Thanks 

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Thanks Mike

 

Got my first alignment done in march 2014 @ skoda ashford, and it did not require much adjustment

 

Will see how it goes when checked in 2weeks

 

Cheers

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i get it rechecked in 2wks and i will ask the questions re arms and bushes,

Hopefully the readings will still be the same and not any different, if so it may indicate a problem?

 

So what settings are recommended for 50% city driving and 50% mway?

 

Thanks 

As close to -1 as you can  get it - that is still within the factory specs for a vRS. 

 

2 - 3mm total toe-in.

 

My settings take into account that the chassis is no longer factory fresh

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As close to -1 as you can  get it - that is still within the factory specs for a vRS. 

 

2 - 3mm total toe-in.

 

My settings take into account that the chassis is no longer factory fresh

 

Is that close to -1 camber for rears or front too?

 

Also 2-3 mm what is that in degrees?

 

Thanks

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Is that close to -1 camber for rears or front too?

 

Also 2-3 mm what is that in degrees?

 

Thanks

Front is NOT adjustable for camber or caster (unless you move the subframe) and the factory spec toe setting is fine.

 

I was just talking about the rears as that's where you had issues.

 

Your aligner should be able to convert it on his rig.  My machine only ever had toe increments in mm, so that's what I know.

 

According to this chart, 2mm is 15' on an 18" rim or 16' on a 17" rim  http://www.trackace.co.uk/manual/conversion%20chart.pdf

 

Supposedly, this is how it's calculated but I haven't checked it

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?87837-Converting-wheel-angle-degrees-to-mm

 

I think the above is too complicated.  If you take the circumference (because you are looking at the tyre like a sphere) & divide by 360 that will give you the figure for 1 degree.

eg: 225/40r18 has a circumference of around 2000mm / 360 then 1" =  5.56mm. 1"=60' so  if 60' = 5.56mm then 1mm toe = 11'  (someone tell me if I'm wrong).  If that's the case then he's got the toe spot-on, you just need to get the rears more upright.

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several reasons not to run zero camber:

*It will probably tram track - follow any groove / line on the road.

 

*As you corner, the body roll will take you into positive camber and therefore only the outside edge of the tyre will be in contact, which will cause slip and excessive outside tyre wear.  Positive camber up front was pretty popular pre-1970.

 

* It's supposed to be a "sporty" model, so it needs to feel stuck to the road.  If you went to track days or lived somewhere that you could belt through lots of corners (and did so) then you'd probably want more negative camber.

 

* There's probably other reasons but I can't think of them right at the moment.

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When we got our VRS it developed the droning very quickly. Dealer did alignment and it dropped 80 miles per tank of fuel. They did it again and was just the same. Took it to a specialist and miles per tank went up by 80 to 100. Sawtoothing cut right down but still did it eventually. More recently got alignment done with Hunter kit and all seems OK so far.

Edited by FatblokeVRS
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just had hunter alignment done at Station Garage Castleford. Heard mention of them around the Internet mainly on piston heads.

Very pleased with the service.

£54 in total.

Here's my printout. Whatever it all means!

New%20Doc_1_zpsaebfctxz.jpg

The car was pulling to the left slightly with an off centre steering wheel. The steering feels much better now I must say.

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