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Genuine MkII Skoda Superb Twindoor LED Rear Light Clusters


silver1011

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Genuine (UK sourced) Skoda Superb MkII Twindoor (hatchback / saloon) LED rear light clusters (x4).

 

Outer and inner clusters included, so four separate light units in total.

 

As these are UK sourced they are fully E-Marked, unlike the VAG Shanghai units available on eBay and Alibaba that are not.

 

After several attempts trying to code my 2011 Superb to run these lights without resistors I've discovered the CECM on my car is too old.

 

I've therefore decided to let them go and for someone else to get some enjoyment out of them.

 

These lights are plug and play. Without the resistors you'll get the blown bulb warning on the dash. With the resistors the blown bulb warning disappears.

 

The resistors are included and are currently fitted using temporary wire connectors, this will allow you to easily remove them if not needed.

 

I paid £380 for them back in May last year and created a detailed 'How To' thread here including lots of photo's...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/317380-skoda-superb-mkii-pre-facelift-led-rear-light-cluster-conversion/

 

They can be yours for £300 including shipping (UK only).

 

All original Skoda packaging is included. The lights are as new, no scratches, scuffs, chips or damage of any kind. All LED's work perfectly.

 

Any questions please just let me know.

 

 

IMG_4549_zpsc450d9f3.jpg

 

IMG_5178_zps8387a7da.jpg

 

LEDRearLights_zps76c0208b.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there, yes they will work on your car, although you will need the resistors to cancel out the blown-bulb warning.

Whats the issue with your current lights?

I keep getting the bulb failure light on, either one side light or reverse one, often it says "rear left side light". Bulbs are working fine, changed them to leds and normal ones a few times, after replacing I didn't get it like a week, then it starts! Checked the wires/conectors etc

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

Edited by alextan
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Hey mate, I just got your recent PM and replied.

 

They are now listed on eBay for £250 including free shipping...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381429976524?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

The LED rear lights I have need the resistors that I've fitted to them to cancel out the blown bulb warnings, however if there is an underlying issue with your car that is causing the warnings you are getting now then simply replacing the rear light clusters from standard to LED's might not fix your issue.

 

There have been a number of threads recently discussing strange bulb warnings from the rear lights, it seems to be a bit of a weak point with the MkII Superb.

 

A few members have traced the issue down to the wiring, not behind the lights themselves but around the hinges on the Twindoors complex hatchback and saloon boot opening mechanism. There have been reports that the wiring loom becomes brittle with age and the constant movement of the boot opening and closing stretches the wires and damages them. This can then cause rogue issues with the boot mechanism and rear lights.

 

On a 2009 your Twindoor is one of the older models, I wonder if the wiring is beginning to show signs of wear?

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I'm not trying to put you off the sale by the way, I'd just hate for you to get the LED lights and still get the blown-bulb warnings.

 

Here are a couple of threads from members also suffering the same issue as you...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/372558-false-warnings-of-bulb-failure/

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/170749-bulb-failure-warning-light/?hl=%2Bblown+%2Bbulb+%2Bwarning#entry4266982

 

Then finally here is a thread with pictures detailing where the wires fail and how they can be checked and fixed...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/286139-superb-twindoor-wiring-fix/?hl=%2Bsuperb+%2Bboot+%2Bhinge+%2Bwiring+%2Bfix#entry4073217

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

Cheers,

 

Roy.

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I'm not trying to put you off the sale by the way, I'd just hate for you to get the LED lights and still get the blown-bulb warnings.

Here are a couple of threads from members also suffering the same issue as you...

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/372558-false-warnings-of-bulb-failure/

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/170749-bulb-failure-warning-light/?hl=%2Bblown+%2Bbulb+%2Bwarning#entry4266982

Then finally here is a thread with pictures detailing where the wires fail and how they can be checked and fixed...

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/286139-superb-twindoor-wiring-fix/?hl=%2Bsuperb+%2Bboot+%2Bhinge+%2Bwiring+%2Bfix#entry4073217

Hope this is helpful.

Cheers,

Roy.

That's a scary and time losing procedure [emoji25] replacing the wires, must be a cheeky one or 2 as I usually get "left side".

Got your pm, I'm sure is no rocket science to fit them, seen your howto guide (very helpful btw), I will look into it to see if I spot any ugly one, wiring indeed looks a bit scuffy (the ones to the bulbs). Would be dissaponting to still get errors with the LEDs. What I understood from your topic, you've tried to code the comp so that they'll work without the transistors, but these are cancelling the error, then why do you want to sell them? I guess these Led's were made for the late 2013 mkII when they made the l&k pack which makes your 2011 an old VCDS version and mine even older, they might not work in full power on mine? Like brightness and response wise ?

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

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The reason for the sale is two-fold.

 

The first reason is that I couldn't get them to work on my car without the resistors. They have worked fault free for the last two years with the resistors but been the inquisitive guy that I am I wanted to have the car coded properly so that I didn't need the resistors, for no other reason than I know it has been done successfully before (by another member outside of the UK) and I prefer things being done properly. Some people see the resistors as being a bit of a bodge.

 

My 2011 car (and I suspect yours too with it being older than mine) would need a new CECM to be able to code them correctly.

 

I am running the 'K' revision but I would need the later P, Q or R revisions. Unfortunately these are between £80 and £100 on eBay. After sinking £380 into the lights themselves and after all of the efforts over the last few years to get them coded correctly I decided to admit defeat and let someone else have some enjoyment out of them!

 

Secondly, the LED rear clusters do not operate in quite the same way as they would if the car was coded correctly. The lower line of LED's run a little brighter than the upper rows. It is offset by the difference in light output from two rows of LED's versus one so barely noticeable but it was still not 100% OEM so bugged me.

 

You can see here how close the brightness is between the top two rows of LED's and the very slightly brighter lower (single) line...

 

LEDRearLights_zps76c0208b.jpg

 

I can assure you though that the fitment for all MkII Superb's is identical and the response times of the LED's is not affected by the resistors, with the resistors they are literally plug and play. Being E-Marked they are also fully legal for use in the UK too.

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The fitting is dead easy.

 

Open the boot to expose the inner edges of the rear light clusters.

 

Use a flat bladed screwdriver to prise / pop off the two (each side) little black plastic caps that cover the screws.

 

Undo and fully remove the two T20 (Torx) screws.

 

Slide out the cluster away from the body of the car as far as it will go (restricted by the length of the wiring).

 

Using your fingers / finger nails gently prise off the big rubber grommet from the main body of the car (this is where the wires from the light cluster pass into the car and so is a fully water tight seal). It's is a tight fit but the grommet is quite supple and is designed to be removed for when bulbs need replacing etc.

 

Once the grommet is off you can then pull the wiring and cluster away further from the car. It also then provides access to the electrical connector. Push in the two little locking tabs to disconnect the connector and the cluster is now free from the car.

 

At this point you can apply the sticky backed Velcro down below where the lights would normally sit ready to attach the resistors to.

 

Take the new LED cluster, attach the resistors to the Velcro (I've added some extra length of wire too so that this can be done with the cluster still some distance away from the car improving visibility and accessibility).

 

Reconnect the electrical connector (it is identical to the non-LED cluster connector), feed it back inside the car and replace the rubber grommet (again this is supplied with the new clusters and is identical to the original).

 

Make sure all wires are out of the way and slide the new cluster into the bodywork lining up the two screw holes (and a small lug round the other side near the rear wing). Re-insert the two screws, tighten and clip back in the black plastic caps.

 

The inner clusters are also easy. The securing bolts are accessed from two little flaps cut out of the boot lining in the saloon lid. Once the little carpet flaps are removed (just a push fit using little lugs) there are two 8mm nuts for each side. Undo them, disconnect the electrical connector (again two little plastic clips to push in) and the cluster can be pushed out from the inside. Replacement is the opposite of the removal.

 

10 minutes each side - max.

 

The only tools you need is a T20 screwdriver and an 8mm open / ring spanner.

 

Job done!

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  • 1 month later...

I read the wrong log when speaking to Alextan so although his current BCM doesn't support the LED rear lights it can be switched for one that does.

 

Absolute steal at the price though and as Mike and Gizmo mentioned, I'd be very tempted to switch the BCM as they can be had for ~£100.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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