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Skoda felicia engine info and help please


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H guys not been here in a while but just aquired a felicia 1.3, ive been thinking for a while to do a engine build so im going full commitment on it. So what i want to do is build a low pressure turbo engine on a budget, seen it done with the 1.4 8v golf engine but i want to use the aee engine as i understand the blocks used in a high power vw engine. Firstly i want to know if the 1.3 gearbox will bolt to the 1.6 block, secondly does anyone have sny input for the engine. My plan is do it on a budget. Thinking of decompression plate and 2x headgaskets, buy a manifold or get one fab'd. Thsnks in advance chaps

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Hi, yes the gearboxes are interchangeable between models, the 1.6 engine has a cast iron adaptor plate bolted to it to adapt it to the skoda bellhousing.

The 1.6 engine is pretty robust itself, the connecting rods are the weak link.

you can buy off the shelf turbo manifolds from Germany to take a k02 turbo for these engines but they are quite pricey, you could just adapt the original manifold to take a turbo.

extra fueling could be dealt with by way of an additional injector which operates on a pressure switch so it only comes on when on boost.

the aee engine has relatively low compression as standard at 9.8:1 so you may be able to get away without fitting a decompression plate if you keep the boost to sensible levels, personally i dislike decompression plates, they are a bit of a bodge. Another option is to have the original pistons machined

the oil feed could be taken from the oil pressure switch outlet on the back of the cylinder head, you could weld a short piece of pipe into the sump to use as an oil return

downpipe could be adapted with a few elbows and flanges etc

the stadard factory fitted fuel pump is good for around 200bhp before it falls over.

packaging an intercooler is a bit tricky on a felicia, but it is possible to fit a front mount intercooler in front of the radiator if you put your mind to it.

theres lot of things you can do but ultimately it boils down to how fat your walllet is.

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Thanks tom, hoping it was you that would reply, if i was to get the pistons machine (which was a idea) , how much do you think would need taking off? Also are the aee ecus remapable? Just thinking for fuelling? I dont want to spend thousands and dont want silly boost. Just that little extra, thanks again

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Yes they can be chipped, but only by physically removing the eeprom chip and soldering in a new one, they can't be serial port flashed like later more modern ecu's can.

machining pistons is a complicated task, you dont just slice the top of the crown off, this has negative effects on combustion quality and accelerates piston ring wear from heat exposure, you need to make the dish in the centre deeper, it would require some measurements and volumes to be taken and carefully machining each piston so they have identical weights.

For fueling it could be posible to use a rising rate fuel pressure regulator in series with your existing one, so as to increase fuel pressure in relation to boost pressure, as a rough rule of thumb for 4psi of turbo boost pressure you would need approximately 20% increase in fuel quantity hence why i suggest a 5th injector because you could 'get away' with running it wired upto one of the other injectors but only feedding power to it when the boost goes over a certain level, this could be achieved by a simple pressure operated switch.

I could make myself sound like a complete anorak and bore you to death wih theory, i could probably write a book on turbocharging to be honest, its a subject that i do know an aweful lot about even if i say so myself.

the biggest design choice you need to make is what turbocharger unit you are aiming to use, the size of th3 turbines and impeller trim need to be matched to th3 engine size.

ideally you also need to retard the igniton timing too, this is because the extra heat load from the pressurised cylinder charge is easier to burn so needs less advance to get it burning, but again as with extra fueling its only required when it's on boost, there are aftermarket boxes from luminition thqt can do this, but the quick and dirty method is to just leave the timing retarded a few degress from standard and just let th3 knock sensor deal with it,

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Yes the static timing at the dizzy should be 6 degrees btdc, this is why the timing belt cover has a 0 mark and a Z mark, but it can only be acurately set by locking the advance by selecting basic settings in channel 0 on vcds or similar. You could set it to say 3 degrees btdc instead.

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