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Reversing cameras - high version this time


tmg

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I've been considering the lowline kit for a while, but the highline seems to be about the same amount of work. Since I never seem to have time on the weekends to pull the car apart and fit it, all I can do is admire other people's upgrades for the moment :)

Edited by psycholist
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a quick update. 

 

when i went to fit the controller box into the space under the top trim in the boot, it didn't quite fit where I had hoped. so I had to do a bit more trim removal. 

 

to make space for the controller, you need to remove the side panel that goes from the boot floor up to the base of the D panel.

 

this is easy enough but needs a few steps:

 

Rear seat side trim removal: 

 

first up, remove the seat side on the back door as per below. tip up the seat base, then remove the 10mm nut. pull the bottom of the panel inwards towards the other side of the car firmly but gently. once this is done take the top part of it and rotate it about 90 degrees back towards the outside of the car, and it should pop out. this lets you get at the last screw for the top trim piece in the previous post, to get it completely out.

 

warning: I dont have an airbag here, so if you do, the process is different, so please dont just pull this piece out until you know exactly how to deal with the airbag.

 

post-16889-0-26813000-1444517845_thumb.png

back to the boot:

 

once you have that out, back to the boot. you need a torx 20 bit to remove the three screws that hold in the trim at the base of the tailgate door (the flat silver panel thing). you need to take out your spare to get at one or two of the screws (see below for position) then the trim pops off with upwards vertical force.

 

post-16889-0-64068100-1444517838_thumb.png

 

then remove the bottom side of the boot trim which is two screws, then pull the panel inwards with a trim removal tool, and it will pop out.

 

note: I have the rail things in my boot, so the one on that side had to come out as well. it requires a m10 spline, and I had to do it before I could pull out the side panel.

 

at that point, you can lift the whole side panel out. note that none of the screws in that diagram were present.

 

post-16889-0-66000800-1444343113_thumb.png

 

there is an earth point in the side well, its a 10mm nut if there isnt one there already. happily, the one from the door handle you remove should do the trick.

then find someplace to snugly fit in your camera controller, and put it all back together

Edited by tmg
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I.m not sure where you ended up fitting the controller?

I assumed it would be in the right hand boot cubby hole where the tv module is in mine. (in fact the tv module bracket has a spare slot under it which I assumed would be for the camera control box)

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Great writeup TMG :)

 

I've heard that in order to get the Hi-Line camera to work that you have to use an original calibration image set up behind the car, and that seems to have put off a lot of people - guessing you didn't need to do this?

 

I'm considering putting this on the hatch version, assuming it should work the same once I can route the wires past the twin lift boot mechanism.

 

Finally, I'm assuming it works reasonably well at night too?

 

J

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@superbdreams - yes - its in the cubbyhole behind the side trim. i dont have the TV tuner, but its "secured" in there with a bit of wedging, and and some duct tape. main thing is to keep it off the bottom of the space in case the drain for my sunroof (or on the other side, the water pipe for the window washer) ever leaks, as it will drown if its down the bottom of the panel

 

@jonathanmcnamee i didnt know that it needed to be calibrated until I put the damn thing in, and it threw the code in VCDS that it was uncalibrated. it seems to work ok, but I cannot wipe the code. the ross-tech wiki is very detailed on how to do it, and there is a thread on audizine on making a fake calibration target, but it seems to work ok. 

 

I may at some point talk to my local skoda dealer and see if they will do it for me, but its not bothering me much at the moment so may also leave it totally alone.

 

hth

t.

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so in the interests of leaving no stone unturned, and to address the calibration issue, here goes.

 

note: it was working fine without this, but just knowing that there was a code on the controller was enough ………

 

anyhow, here goes.

 

Calibration:

 

you need a VAS 6350 calibration target and vcds to do this.

 

as it happens, several kind folks have made versions of this over the years available as PDF files, so you can print them out on large format printers - I happen to have access to one, so I made one this morning. if you dont, any local print shop should be able to help you out on this, and should be around a tenner.

 

here is a pic of it in action - http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kehvein/media/Audi/2014-02-12142901_zpsa4d7bc04.jpg.html

 

I got mine from here - http://www2.zippyshare.com/v/86679736/file.html but no guarentees this will work for you. search online for it, you should get many hits as its a v. simple pattern

 

Procedure

 

First up, you have to put the sheet of paper on the ground behind the car -  51.5"/1.31m behind your car to be exact. . The measurement is from the center of your rear wheel to the leading edge of the calibration sheet (the thick black line), and center it on the centerline of the car. easy enough in my case, as I could line it up on the towbar :)

 

our wheelbase is 2761mm

 

the next bit is direct from ross-tech’s wiki, but slightly adapted for our cars with the correct measurements:

 

[select]

[6C - Back-Up Camera]

[security Access - 16]

Enter 22351, to enable the adaptation.

[Adaptation - 10]

Channel 005

[Read]

500 mm is the basis value of channel 005. Measure the heights between the Calibration Device (VAS 6350) and the surface (e.g. 80 mm), add 500 mm to it and enter the final value as new value (e.g. 500 + 80 = 580 mm).

in this case, the paper is on the ground, so leave it as 500mm. the actual vag one is a foldable table type thing, hence the need to input this value.

[Test]

[save]

Channel 004

[Read]

20000 mm is the basis value of channel 004, 2761 mm is the wheelbase of a 3T superb. Measure the Distance between the Calibration Device (VAS 6350) and the rear axle (e.g. 1500 mm), and subtract it from 20000 mm minus 2855 mm enter the final value as new value (e.g. 20000 - 2855 - 1500 = 15645 mm).

in this case, my calculation was: 1310 mm behind the car, 2761 mm wheelbase, so

20000-2761-1310 = 15929

[Test]

[save]

Channel 001

[Read]

To save your above adaptation save a new value of 1 to channel 001.

[Test]

[save]

[Done, Go Back]

Now double check the calibration status.

[Meas. Blocks - 08]

Block 130

[Go!]

Block 005 Field 3 (Calibration Status)

Specification: 0x0000 (Calibration Successful)

[Done, Go Back]

[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

 

hope that helps!

 

support docs:

the audi calibration procedure is here - http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a5/vehicle_electrics/communication/infotainment/reversing_camera_system/ and pretty much the same for our cars.

 

the VCDS procedure is here

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Touareg_%287L%29_Back-Up_Camera#Special_Procedures


 

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small update to the above. 

 

mea culpa and all that, but I thought it had completed, but had not (it was still running when I looked). it then threw up a code about out of range. 

 

after a quick check, it turns out that you need to put the target back to 1.6m (1600mm) from the rear wheel center - the official range is around 1500mm to 1900mm. the 1310 measurement is for various audis. but i digress. also, when you code the camera, you set a height range (4th or 5th digit iirc). there is one more adaptation present which should show up as "camera height" and you need to set the same height here as you did in the coding section. 

 

so 

target back 1600mm, set the camera height to the same height that you set when coding the module. 

 

this also changes the calculation above, so you now have 

 

20000-1600-2761 = 15636

 

then you are good to go. the camera adaptation took around 4 minutes to run, you can keep an eye on what its doing by looking at measuring block 130 in the camera module controller (6c)

 

here's a pic of it all too...

 

post-16889-0-44032700-1444722385_thumb.png

 

hope this helps

 

t.

Edited by tmg
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@superbdreams forgot to say - yes - works fine at night. its well illuminated by the reversing light, and I have LEDs in the number plate lights as well, which also help. 

 

hmmm - maybe time to put in some LEDs into the reverse light too :)

 

t.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...

Well, inspired by this fantastic guide, I have taken to my Skoda Combi with a dremel, wired up with all the same parts as above, bought a genuine VCDS, but stumped at the coding.

 

I have managed to activate 6C controller, it accepts the security access (22351) but won't let me code the unit as described above, I just get "out of range" when I try to code.

I was hoping mine would accept 0020011 much like above. 

Any ideas would be great! 

 

As per OP's:

 

"VCDS: 

 

This was supposed to be the easy bit. but. nope. 

 

short version of what to do is as follows: 

 

1: make sure that the camera module shows up in the CAN Gateway (17) installation list - the group for the camera is 6c

2: code the RVC module for your car. this is module 6c, and you then go to "Security access" to log in to the module (following the VCDS directions very carefully so you dont get locked out), then go to "coding' 

 

this was a pain. there were no instructions with the kit I received, so I had to play around a bit to get this to work. the module I was supplied was a VW one which (it turns out) cant be coded specifically for a skoda. I wasted a lot of time here but eventually figured out that you could code it for a Seat Alhambra (listed in the options list) and it would work. the coding I used was 0030011 as I have a towbar."

 

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  • 1 year later...

Digging up an old thread, but it's probably the most comprehensive one here for this install. I've just finished mine and wanted to add a few observations/tips. I ordered the kit from Cars-Equipment and it seems they've improved it in the last few years: mine came with the power cable terminated in a fuse-box terminal, and the CAN lines were terminated with the standard pins for that connection, along with a y-terminal (see attached pics).

 

I hooked the power up to slot 17 on the fuse panel at the end of the dash (it's not used on the Superb and has a permanent +12 V supply). I thought I was going to be fierce crafty by tapping the CAN lines into the CAN connection used for the towing harness I fitted a few years ago, but it turns out that the towing controller is on the Convenience CAN network while the RVC controller is on the Infotainment network. Because it was late and I wanted to get finished, I pulled the CAN lines to the back of the Columbus and Scotchlok'd them (terrible I know!). Some further research through the wiring diagrams highlighted that the Bluetooth module under the driver's seat is on the Infotainment network and uses the same type of pins as those supplied on the harness for the RVC, so I'll be going back in to tidy that up and reroute the CAN lines.

 

When it came to cutting out the opening in the tailgate for the handle, I realised I had a better option than a Dremel and cutoff wheels (this was after watching @psycholist spend half an hour and 4 wheels cutting out his) - the multipurpose saw thinger in the pics below coupled with some metal cutting blades (readily available in hardware stores, I got mine in Screwfix). 5 minutes was all it took to cut out the opening in pic below: I used the half moon blade to do the long cut, and the narrower straight edged blade for the sides and a little notching out to make the handle fit. Some cleaning up was still needed with a file to take away rough edges. Once I had it cut and cleaned up, I masked off and painted it up, primer, paint, lacquer.

IMG_20210708_183705.jpg

IMG_20210710_115409.jpg

IMG_20210710_121559.jpg

IMG_20210708_183705.jpg

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