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Haldex Clutch Pump


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I've just scanned my 2010 Yeti with a view to changing the auto wiper behaviour and it flagged up a fault code on the Haldex.

 

It's not listed on the Ross Tech Wiki and a general Google (there is nothing relevant on this forum that I can find) shows that it may be just the Haldex Clutch Pump (V181) that is causing the fault code.

 

However, I can only find reference to the fault code (00448) on Gen1 Haldex units and I thought an April 2010 Yeti had Gen3 Haldex! Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

On some (Audi) threads it suggests that it might just be poor connection between the plug and the contacts (the fault is shown as intermittent) although some threads show corroded circuit boards from the internals of the Haldex controller.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (full, relevant scan below) and can offer advice as it sounds like it might be rather expensive...

 

Address 22: AWD        Labels: 0AY-907-554-V1.clb

  Part No SW: 0BR 907 554 A    HW: 0BR 907 554 A
  Component: Haldex 4Motion      3016
  Coding: 0000005
  Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
  VCID: 438FB6F802A3882600-8016

1 Fault Found:
00448 - Haldex Clutch Pump (V181)
           011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
            Freeze Frame:
                   Fault Status: 00101011
                   Fault Priority: 3
                   Fault Frequency: 1
                   Reset counter: 16
                   Mileage: 113050 km
                   Time Indication: 0
                   Date: 2010.05.09
                   Time: 18:37:59

 

​PS: The date on my Columbus is correct as is the date on my laptop. Why does this scan show a date in 2010?

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Should have added that I have had no other warnings of any issues and the car (to my knowledge) drives exactly the same as it has before.

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Possible. I did hit some kerbside puddles quite hard on the dark Cornish lanes last week.

 

I've cleared the fault code and will see when / if it returns.

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Pre-FL Yetis are Gen 4 Haldex.

Thanks for clarifying that. Not sure where I got Gen 3 from.

 

Anyone got any experiences or information on this fault code?

 

Where is the Haldex Clutch Pump (and connectors)? Perhaps I can get them off, clean them up and reseat them.

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Maybe not much use but if it does transpire that there is an issue, there are plenty of threads and advice on who to fix on many of the other VAG group forums.

 

I had the same fault show up, I cleared it but it came back a few days later (after pulling off a junction sharply). It did transpire that the clutch pump had gone. It was done under warranty and have forgotten the cost that I saw but when I did some searching, I did see some specialists that can fix or provide a guaranteed refurb at much less. I believe a weak point is the seals go and allow moisture in.

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Mine did the same thing, error still there too. Only drives the front wheels now unfortunately......

That's bad. How do you know it's only driving front wheels?

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Mine also had a Haldex oil pump fault code at its 3-year service, according to my dealer;  I don't know what code came up but I wasn't aware of any issue (no warnings) although I had noticed a tiny bit of wheel spin on acceleration once or twice just before the service.  Anyway, the pump was replaced under warranty.

They still charged me for the Haldex oil change I'd requested, saying the pump can be changed without draining the oil.  Fair enough - if they hadn't checked the codes I'd have discovered the problem eventually and as the 3-year warranty expired a couple of days after that service I would have had to pay for the pump replacement.

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That's bad. How do you know it's only driving front wheels?

They spin when I accelerate, when the 4wd system is functioning correctly this doesn't happen. I'm considering buying a new car hence my reluctance to spend money on this one....

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They spin when I accelerate, when the 4wd system is functioning correctly this doesn't happen. I'm considering buying a new car hence my reluctance to spend money on this one....

Think I need to give it some wellie when pulling away from a safe junction to see if I can get any wheel spin...

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I've trying to get the wheels to spin by pulling away from (safe) locations on wet roads, but to no avail. I can't even get the traction control light to come on.

 

I'll check the fault code to see if it has come back, but fingers crossed it hasn't.

 

Think I'll take a look at the connectors on the clutch pump. Anyone know exactly where it is located?

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  • 1 month later...

Snap! Did you get yours sorted?

 

Address 22: AWD        Labels: 0AY-907-554-V1.clb
   Part No SW: 0BR 907 554 C    HW: 0BR 907 554 C
   Component: Haldex 4Motion      3018   
   Coding: 0000005
   Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
   VCID: 4586CB2C0CD12A1602-8010
 
1 Fault Found:
00448 - Haldex Clutch Pump (V181)  
            011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 11000000
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 57
                    Reset counter: 48
                    Mileage: 3618101 km
                    Time Indication: 4

 

Pulled out of a junction yesterday and got wheelspin, and the flashing traction light. First time I've seen the TC light since having the Nokian Weatherproofs fitted, and have never had noticeable wheelspin in the Yeti before. Later on I got what I presume is torque steer, pulling out to overtake & accelerate past a car, and yet more wheel spin pulling onto a busy roundabout.  I've no idea what the mileage figure refers to, as the car has only done 46K miles.

 

I'll ring the dealers tomorrow, as the car is still in warranty (got the extended five year plan).

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It's booked in for first thing Thursday for initial diagnosis. I checked my service sheet for last year, and the Haldex transmission fluid was replaced on schedule. Judging from the entries on here and on other forums (Golf Rs seem to be prone) it's not that uncommon.

 

Most of the time I suspect it won't be noticed. Most of the power goes to the front in moderate driving and it's unlikely to need to transfer any power to the rear. It typical that it happened just when we had snow & ice on the road for the first time this winter this morning! I felt a little wheel slip on the incline pulling out of my drive, though it was fine once on the road - winter tyres to the rescue!  

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Thanks for that. At least I have a vague idea what a V181 clutch pump is now!

 

This has been about the most informative forum posting, though from a TT perspective, that I've found so far - http://www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=522650  I'm hoping the intermittent nature of the fault doesn't cause problems getting a definite diagnosis.

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After reading up the Haldex I thought these modern cars are getting far too complicated! Just had the EGR+Cooler replaced and only 31/2  years old. I pressed the off-road button today and it lit up without any dash warnings, so I assume this Haldex is working. I often work with my cars up on ramps either front or rear wheel. I haven't thought through yet if 4WD may affect how I drive this Yeti up on them and I know the MOT testers can't use their single roller brake testers.

 

Occasionally I've felt an odd forward speed surge when decelerating, as though brakes have come off. I'll need to read up and see if the rear drive is being disconnected under certain conditions giving less transmission drag or if its the fancy flywheel.

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To me, it seems a competition to see how much techno stuff you can jam onto your brochure and get the lowest CO2/consumption figure on the windscreen.

Nothing to do with long term piece of mind.

Crashworthiness is great of course but do we need so much complexity and expense added on?.

Edited by Ryeman
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...get the lowest CO2/consumption figure on the windscreen.

After all that complexity you still cannot believe the figures!

 

Crashworthiness is great

 

Stock cars hold up well in crashes, but might look a little strange on the road.

I think complexity is a plot by vehicle manufactures to bamboozle us and re-inforce their after sales profits. I would like to see 'cost of ownership' versus mileage feature highly in car design objectives. Then buyers can see and compare real world costs across different brands.

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We seem to have reached a divide in Australia

Many have given up on cars to buy some of the most expensive houses in the world

But

Others have given up on that hope and are renting and spending up on luxuries including cars.

Cars are both cheap and expensive at the same time.

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I pressed the off-road button today and it lit up without any dash warnings, so I assume this Haldex is working.

 

Just for clarity: the off-road button does not engage or disengage the Haldex.  I'm not sure whether that was actually what you were suggesting, but it's emphatically not the case: the Haldex system (if your car has it) operates all the time you're driving.  AFAIK the off-road button doesn't have any direct effect on the Haldex at all, although the change in behaviour of such features such as Electronic Diff Lock with the off-road button engaged can result in the Haldex reacting differently to the driving conditions it perceives.

 

There is also no indication on the dashboard as to what the Haldex is doing, in terms of distributing torque to the front and rear of the vehicle.  The reason for this is fairly simple: you don't need to know, and what would you do about it if you did?

 

This thread does seem to have highlighted a possible issue in that there is no indication on the dashboard if the Haldex develops a fault - at least, not in the case of the fault that seems to be affecting some owners' Haldex clutch pumps.

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Thanks for the clarification. So off road mode is disabling electronics like ABS, EDL, ESP and limits throttle to 2500 rpm? But the key requirement for traction over rough terrain is still handled automatically through the Haldex unit? With due allowance for tyre and wheel size differences, will a Yeti 4X4 and its Haldex power sharing off road come close to older Landrovers with 4WD drive engaged and diff lock? Sometimes, I see automatic control as a way of idiot proofing which can get in the way of an experienced  driver using their skills.

 

I agree on the need for a warning. But a warning that puts on MIL lights and gets the car into 'limp home' or' take to garage' mode is not something I would want. One day cars will have inbuilt diagnostics output that can show on the mfd. Then the buying public will really see how reliable their cars are.

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Off Road is meaning when you go down steep hills, it keeps the brake pressure on the pedal for you to stop the car running away with itself, i.e. it will release brakes per wheel to get down a steep hill safely (human cannot do this)

 

I did this in Wolfsberg at their test centre off road track.

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