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Haldex Clutch Pump


KBPhoto

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....from what I could see and feel it is the kind of soft grey sludge you can get from decomposing epdm rubber brake lines seen in a brake master cylinder or from wear on seals with rotating shafts.

When I changed my Haldex fluid, the stuff I drained out had some small greyish "lumps" in it; nothing of substance to them - if you squished them between fingers there was nothing solid at all. IIRC someone else changed theirs and found similar.
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Simple AWD test? and the one used on the Volvo XC90 forums (the XC90 uses an almost identical setup) is to plonk the front wheels on a wet grassy slope with the rears still on the tarmac/road etc, and floor the throttle, if the front wheels just spin, then you only have 2WD operational. However if the car then tries to push/pull you up the slope also using the rear wheels then the Haldex unit is operational.

 

Hope that helps.

Thanks I'm going to try something in my driveway. I've cut 2 lengths of 1200gm builders polythene into strips 500mm x 2.5M long. I'll put those under the front wheels then brush over some washing up liquid, try to get the front wheels over and spinning to see if the car still moves forwards. Not sure if ABS will interfere though.

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Awesome peace of work, bet SKODA dont have that sort of information. Probably not found in the service manual.

 

Will be looking at fitting led to show pump activation as soon as weather permits, my garage is not heated ! 

 

Brilliant.  :clap:  :clap:  :cocktail:

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MY12 Yeti is outside 24/7! After your suggestion I had an idea: You know the problem is usually getting any wires from rear to front neatly, but I will have a look see if they can go through a plug in the boot spare wheel panel. Then I thought of 2 options. Best is to put the led in a spare switch cover, but a simple option could be to have it up high on a rear corner so you can see it in the rear mirror. I think I'll go for green and set the brightness so it isn't too annoying.

Edited by voxmagna
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I have repaired a few of these pumps now, the wiring loom into the pump gets corroded and causes a higher resistance so the haldex thinks the pump is bad, I usually run a new pair of wires thru from the haldex to the pump and it fix's the fault, its mainly the power wire (green or blue from memory and if you inspect it close to the where its soldered to the motor you can usually see green corrosion on the wire itself, change the oil at the same time and its fixed. 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi folks,

 

I'm getting the 00448 error telling me the haldex clutch pump is open circuit (2012 yeti CR140 4x4).  I've tried clearing the fault code, but it comes back within seconds of starting the engine.  I know this will obviously disable the 4x4 system, and only allow drive to the front wheels.  Does anyone know if this affects anything else, such as the EDL (i.e. braking a spinning wheel to send power to the not spinning one on the front axle)?

 

I'm going to have a look under the car to see if it is the wiring that is at fault.  Hopefully it won't require a replacement pump.  I think I'll change the oil and filter whilst I'm under there.  Are the replacement filters and oil available from Skoda/VW?

 

Cheers

Andy

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If you read through the post replies you should get your answers:

 

Unlikely there is a wiring fault. Most likely the wires inside the motor have corroded or the brushes are sticking. Your option is to test the pump resistance at the connector with a multimeter. If it's high (bad motor) then second option is either to replace the pump or if you are electrically skilled, disassemble the pump as done in this thread and check for stuck brushes or corroded internal wires.

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Just had mine replaced under warranty,thought it may have not been working for some time as the TCL was coming on too   often and had been watching this topic for a while.I did ask what the reason for the failure of the pump was but not really given a difinitive answer,anyway job done and the Yeti is once again a pleasure to drive in adverse conditions so let's hope the new one has been modified to stop failure in the future.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Yesterday I exchanged my existing pump for a new one. Although I replaced my filter back in January, bad weather and the need to prep my two other cars for MoTs prevented me from dealing with the pump.

 

The pump strainer was very nearly blocked with what looked like a black, jelly like substance. It was darker and firmer than the filter debris - and I guess the darkness is friction plate material, and the gel was oil degradation.

 

I also fitted a pre-prepared extra length of wiring harness with VAG plugs and sockets to aid pump replacement in the future. Now I have a new pump, which seems basically ok, I can swop pumps at the next oil/filter change very quickly. I'll strip the cover off the "old" pump and see if there any brush/wiring problems etc. I've also included a spliced in an extra length of wiring to fit an led when time permits.

 

I think the Gen 1V Haldex may have an advantage over Gen V, as I believe Borg Warner "cheapened" the basically same unit by removing the hydraulic accumulator and replacing with a nearly constant running pump with inbuilt pressure regulation. Possibly the accumulator can cope with restricted output from the pump due to "blockage" by using the pressure stored in the unit until it catches up and is back to normal. Certainly my vehicle was fine, only last week balancing on two opposite wheels and then driving off! 

Edited by Yety
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2 hours ago, Llanigraham said:

So it was you in Myherin over the weekend!

 

Yes, but not only me!!!!

 

And the two wheel stuff was at Walters testing/playing.

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  • 9 months later...
On 05/01/2016 at 09:57, KBPhoto said:

I've just scanned my 2010 Yeti with a view to changing the auto wiper behaviour and it flagged up a fault code on the Haldex.

 

It's not listed on the Ross Tech Wiki and a general Google (there is nothing relevant on this forum that I can find) shows that it may be just the Haldex Clutch Pump (V181) that is causing the fault code.

 

However, I can only find reference to the fault code (00448) on Gen1 Haldex units and I thought an April 2010 Yeti had Gen3 Haldex! Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

On some (Audi) threads it suggests that it might just be poor connection between the plug and the contacts (the fault is shown as intermittent) although some threads show corroded circuit boards from the internals of the Haldex controller.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts on this (full, relevant scan below) and can offer advice as it sounds like it might be rather expensive...

 

 

PS: The date on my Columbus is correct as is the date on my laptop. Why does this scan show a date in 2010?

 

hi

 

could you see the error code using a ODB2 reader?

 

cheers

martin

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 28/01/2018 at 22:37, goldiiman said:

 

hi

 

could you see the error code using a ODB2 reader?

 

cheers

martin

 

 

 

Don't know - I don't have a generic OBD reader, only an official version of VCDS. The actual fault code is in the first post on this thread.

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  • 10 months later...

Hi everyone. New here...

I got the no contact message from my V181 pump the other day after determining that the rear wheels were not getting power. Two things, the plug was loose, for how long I have no idea, but the 4WD was working last winter. Because of that the motor was not getting power and had "frozen". I was getting 0 Ohms resistance. A few taps on the motor with a wrench and bingo!, 7 Ohms, and the 4WD was up and running. I have already ordered a new pump and filter to be on the safe side, (2010 with 111000 km) but I will for sure open up the old one first and see how the brushes look etc. If it is still OK I will put it back in after a thorough cleaning. Oil was just changed, and the filter will for sure be changed.

Simple 4WD test? Yup! Put ALL FOUR wheels on a slippery surface, wet grass, snow, soapy plastic foil etc, and gun it. Just see if the rear wheels also spin. I do it on a slightly inclined snow covered road  by opening the door and looking out, but a second person to observe would make it easier.

Cheers, and greetings from the Vienna woods.

Voxmanga... great posts. Very helpful!

 

By the way, is the yellow wire on the motor +?

Edited by DanCLicks
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Finally had a nice enough day to change the pump and filter. Wasn't too gunked up, but the pump only measured 1.3 Ohms so I ditched it. All went according to plan by following the instructions here: https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/repl...er-andor-pump/. Only problem is, the last guy who changed the oil buggered up the thread on the fill hole. The plug seems tight enough and isn't leaking, so I will just have to keep an eye on it.

Edited by DanCLicks
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  • 1 year later...

I’d just like to add my thanks to everyone who has posted on this Haldex thread and the other ones with all the helpful info and advice – and especially for the heads up on cleaning the pump filter on the Haldex 5 unit.

 

I asked Allams to do the oil change at 3 years (47k miles). It wasn’t on their to do list as standard service items. At 6 years I assumed the dealer at MK would do it (and I forgot to check beforehand) and it wasn’t done, so it was on my to do list.

Then I read the pump filer cleaning info and that became a high priority now being 6.5 years and 88k miles.

 

I bought the service kit from  haldexrepairs.co.uk and I’m well impressed with their service and the info on their website.

Yesterday, I jacked the Yeti up (many jacks and axles stands) and got on with the task. Probably the most difficult job is undoing the adult-proof pump harness plug from the controller… Yes, I watched all the videos but it’s still impossible! In the end, I unbolted the controller and that made it all possible.

 

The oil looked pretty clean as it drained out and I wasn’t expecting to see the pump filter (and pump housing) in the condition they were – a sort of congealed mess covering at least 80% of the filter.

How well it was working, who know. I ran a VCDS check before and after as well as the ‘pump learn’ program from VCDS.

 

I don’t blame the dealers – the manual doesn’t tell them to pull the pump and clean the filter but it certainly should. I am surprised the dealers don’t even have the oil change on their radar – but then, MK told me my Citigo cambelt change was due (it doesn’t get replaced according to the Skoda manual), failed the MOT on it for having the headlights too low (then they found the headlight adjuster on the dash) and told me the wheel bolts ‘won’t tighten, they just keep turning because there’s copper grease on them’…. I won’t be going back there.

 

Anyway, thanks again for the wealth of good info once again on Briskoda. I took a load of pictures and will write up a bit on how I did it in case it’s of use to other Haldex V owners.

 

 

 

 

 

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And after cleaning....

 

IMG_5853.thumb.JPG.3f247c61aaa19d54814d6b544cb370c0.JPG

IMG_5862.JPG

Edited by aerofurb
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