Getting at wiring for luggage compartment lights - Twindoor

[Figment]

Hi

 

I eventually got around to investigating why one of my luggage compartment (boot!) lights isn't working on my Twindoor, and discovered it's not even connected!

 

I cannot see or feel the connector for it inside the housing, which leads me to ask how the cable is routed, and what parts of the car I need to pull apart (and how) to get access to it.

 

If it's relevant, it's the offside lamp that's not connected.

 

Thanks in advance

[Figment]

Pulled the trim apart as far as I could, but could not find the connector for this light, so gave up.

[CombatWombat]

The cable comes from behind the grey carpet-like trim, over its top edge, directly to the right of the light (viewed from rear bumper). It is easy to forget it needs pulling through when aligning the trim pieces.

 

I don't think it can drop very far down the back of the vertical/carpet panel, that's where it probably is now.

 

The hard plastic panel (with the parcel shelf hinge), that is above it, is more easily removed when the fabric-covered C pillar trim is removed (C pillar trim has 4 spring clips - v. stiff). The hard plastic parcel-shelf-pivot trim has three screws and many clips and an extra screw into the retracting curry hook at the bumper end of the boot.

 

And that is more easily accessed when the rear seat side bolster has been removed. Which needs the rear seat base taking out.

 

There must be an easier way.

 

Perhaps start with the C pillar trim, loosen the screws nearby and see if you can retrieve the connector with a bit of stiff wire down the back?!

Edited 10 January, 2016 by CombatWombat

[silver1011]

The pictures in this how-to thread should help too...

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/286139-superb-twindoor-wiring-fix/

[Figment]

The cable comes from behind the grey carpet-like trim, over its top edge, directly to the right of the light (viewed from rear bumper). It is easy to forget it needs pulling through when aligning the trim pieces.

 

I don't think it can drop very far down the back of the vertical/carpet panel, that's where it probably is now.

 

The hard plastic panel (with the parcel shelf hinge), that is above it, is more easily removed when the fabric-covered C pillar trim is removed (C pillar trim has 4 spring clips - v. stiff). The hard plastic parcel-shelf-pivot trim has three screws and many clips and an extra screw into the retracting curry hook at the bumper end of the boot.

 

And that is more easily accessed when the rear seat side bolster has been removed. Which needs the rear seat base taking out.

 

There must be an easier way.

 

Perhaps start with the C pillar trim, loosen the screws nearby and see if you can retrieve the connector with a bit of stiff wire down the back?!

@CombatWombat

 

Many thanks, this looks like the info I needed, but seems a lot of hassle just to get that bit of wire out.  Maybe one for a rainy day!

 

Oh and in my efforts over the weekend I managed to break one of the clips (the big one just in front of the latching mechanism) on the hard plastic parcel-shelf-pivot trim, so now it doesn't stay click into place and there's a gap between trim and the keep for the latch.

 

 

@silver1011

 

Excuse me if I'm missing something, but those pictures appear to be related to fixing the wiring that runs down the twindoor, whereas the light I'm referring to is in the bottom of the hard plastic parcel-shelf-pivot trim that runs from the rear seats to the back of the boot.

[silver1011]

The link I posted to shows how the power is routed into the boot of the car from the battery.

 

This is the single entry point / route for all electrical loads in and around the boot, such as the rear lights, 12V power socket, parking sensors, boot lights, electric boot opening etc.

 

When these wires chafe it results in strange electrical faults at the back of the car, however after re-reading your opening post I can see that only one boot light isn't working, the other side is OK - ruling out the main wiring loom as being the issue.

 

The main reason for posting the link was in case it helped to illustrate how the panels and carpet was removed to gain better access to the boot lights.

Edited 11 January, 2016 by silver1011

[CombatWombat]

Just a thought about your reluctant trim.

 

Even if one of the clips has broken, the trim not going back into place could be due to one of the locating pegs and clips not fitting into its hole.

 

The trim needs to go back 'just so' (i.e. square on). If just some of the trim is levered off, then the distortion can misalign the outstanding clips etc. and prevent it refitting fully.

 

Its a bit of a s0d at the best of times, that's probably why a (triumphant but forgetful) previous repairer thought to leave the wires where they were.

 

BTW, if your fuel cap locking mechanism is ever replaced then the trim will have to come out again, perhaps it already has been?

[Figment]

Just a thought about your reluctant trim.

 

Even if one of the clips has broken, the trim not going back into place could be due to one of the locating pegs and clips not fitting into its hole.

 

The trim needs to go back 'just so' (i.e. square on). If just some of the trim is levered off, then the distortion can misalign the outstanding clips etc. and prevent it refitting fully.

 

Its a bit of a s0d at the best of times, that's probably why a (triumphant but forgetful) previous repairer thought to leave the wires where they were.

 

BTW, if your fuel cap locking mechanism is ever replaced then the trim will have to come out again, perhaps it already has been?

 

 

Hmmm. I think you may be on to something, as one or two of the small pegs haven't gone back home. I thought this was due to me distorting the trim and the broken larger clip was stopping it all going back true.

 

Looks like the toolbox may be coming out again at the weekend after all.

[Figment]

The cable comes from behind the grey carpet-like trim, over its top edge, directly to the right of the light (viewed from rear bumper). It is easy to forget it needs pulling through when aligning the trim pieces.

 

I don't think it can drop very far down the back of the vertical/carpet panel, that's where it probably is now.

 

The hard plastic panel (with the parcel shelf hinge), that is above it, is more easily removed when the fabric-covered C pillar trim is removed (C pillar trim has 4 spring clips - v. stiff). The hard plastic parcel-shelf-pivot trim has three screws and many clips and an extra screw into the retracting curry hook at the bumper end of the boot.

 

And that is more easily accessed when the rear seat side bolster has been removed. Which needs the rear seat base taking out.

 

There must be an easier way.

 

Perhaps start with the C pillar trim, loosen the screws nearby and see if you can retrieve the connector with a bit of stiff wire down the back?!

 

@CombatWombat

 

 

Your suggestion was spot on!

 

• Removed the 'C' pillar trim
• Removed two screws at top of the rigid plastic section, plus the one securing the bag hook
• Pulled rigid plastic away far enough to see down behind the carpet, and there was the absent connector
• Pulled the connector through and reassembled

Both lights now working (YAY!) and as suggested in you other reply with a little patience and determination refitting the rigid plastic section it now fits flush.

 

Thank you.

Edited 23 January, 2016 by Figment