Rusting discs and missing fog light

[DonjSZ5]

If turning them I doubt you would take a light skim either. A carbide tip and about 3 mm under to overcome the surface aging. Grinding much easier if you can. But as stated its far cheaper to fit new discs.

[domhnall]

I saw these discs the other day when I bumped into the OP, they are very badly scored with deep grooves

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[Rustynuts]

If turning them I doubt you would take a light skim either. A carbide tip and about 3 mm under to overcome the surface aging. Grinding much easier if you can. But as stated its far cheaper to fit new discs.

And the manufacturers wear tolerance is 2mm....

[137699]

Well whenever my disks have gone corroded (not on the Yeti yet but I'm sure thay will happen at some point) I have generally paid £15 the pair to have them skimmed. Which is a LOT cheaper than new disks and also means you don't need to throw away perfectly good pads either.

[Rooted]

£15 is usually mates rates, not a receipt / invoice with 20% VAT on it.

 

Anyway, if someone put a new pair of actually rather cheap to purchase discs on, they still may not need to replace the pads.

The days of 2-3 sets of pads before you might need new discs went long ago with Skoda / VW OEM parts.

[VAGCF]

Well whenever my disks have gone corroded (not on the Yeti yet but I'm sure thay will happen at some point) I have generally paid £15 the pair to have them skimmed. Which is a LOT cheaper than new disks and also means you don't need to throw away perfectly good pads either.

I wouldn't reuse the pads if I'd had the discs skimmed, no matter how good they looked. Won't the pads have worn to the grooves, if any, or the profile of the corroded disc?

 

Was watching Wheeler Dealers once and Edd China was skimming the discs whilst still on the car using a fancy bit of kit. Trouble is he was only doing the outside and if other cars are as reported by some as regards their Yetis, badly corroded on the inside face, then that is a waste of time!

[Urrell]

Yeti rear disks are 10mm thick and the allowable wear is 2 mm so by the time they need to be skimmed because of uneven wear/corrosion they would be below the safe limit for doing so.

[Rooted]

If you buy a used car, private or dealer,

then the pads might be new and discs with a Lip or marked as Scored on a Sales Sheet at the Workshop check.

Plenty Main Dealers have been known to Skim Discs, or just give them an Italian Tune up before the new owner collects the car, 

and maybe changing pads if needs must.

 

So if you want to replace Discs and pads then considering £140 all round buys the parts, do it.

But there is no point generalising about what to do without looking and seeing what you are looking at.

 

If you own the car from new, then you will know hopefully the history of the car / parts.

[DonjSZ5]

I wouldn't reuse the pads if I'd had the discs skimmed, no matter how good they looked. Won't the pads have worn to the grooves, if any, or the profile of the corroded disc?

 

Was watching Wheeler Dealers once and Edd China was skimming the discs whilst still on the car using a fancy bit of kit. Trouble is he was only doing the outside and if other cars are as reported by some as regards their Yetis, badly corroded on the inside face, then that is a waste of time!

Edd China bwahahahah. I had the pleasure of watching him at this years CCS. He was on stage overhauling a car inside 12 hours. He had 2 guys helping him and still they could not get the exhaust rubber mount off. I suspect skimming the outside for a quick sell on. Would you buy a car from that man..........nooooooooooooo

[silver1011]

A quick one on the rear flog light. This same issue crops up quite a bit over on the Octavia II forum.

 

A lot of UK sourced cars spent a few years over in Germany as they were purchased via some sort of MoD scheme for serving personnel. The Skoda dealers over in Germany near the military bases are all very clued up on making the required adjustments to the front and rear lights to make their use legal over there.

 

When the cars were brought back to the UK the dealers over here have a tough time putting things back to what they were as they are far less used to it.

 

Just a thought but is there any chance the original owner spent some time overseas? 

Edited 6 February, 2016 by silver1011

[jonbenj]

 

Just a thought but is there any chance the original owner spent some time overseas?

Who knows? The car was supplied originally by Ridgeway, to an Edinburgh address according to V5, then traded back to Ridgeway and then I bought it. Wasnt overly keen buying the car on the strength of a dealers photo, but there was nothing up here that came remotely close on price at the time.

I can't imagine many franchise dealers skimming discs these days: maybe a quick polish with an angle grinder. As Urrell says, there's probably not enough meat ,left to make it worth while. I might stick a pic up so you can see how groovy mine are!

Donald, nice seeing you in the car park the other day. I'll give you a shout about a scan sometime. I'll try and do some homework first!

[Rooted]

It really does not matter if many do it, some do.

Not to name any but maybe some at a Arnold Clark Dealership might, no idea about anyone at a John Clark Group Workshop.

Who knows....

[137699]

Yeti rear disks are 10mm thick and the allowable wear is 2 mm so by the time they need to be skimmed because of uneven wear/corrosion they would be below the safe limit for doing so.

 

You take off microns when skimming - not whole millimetres (unless you're doing it wrong).

[Rustynuts]

You take off microns when skimming - not whole millimetres (unless you're doing it wrong).

Depends how bad the corrosion and pitting is. If it's surface corrosion then a good hard braking session should clean then up, but if it's deeper pitted corrosion then a few microns isn't going to be anywhere near effective.

[DonjSZ5]

You take off microns when skimming - not whole millimetres (unless you're doing it wrong).

If TURNING, impossible, have you ever tried skimming age/heat hardened/rusty cast iron by turning.

 

Firstly, both outside and inside areas will be untouched by the pads and the hardest area to get into to start the cut(s). These are better ground back with a hand grinder before starting.

 

Special grade carbide inserts or tipped tools are used on CI parts.

 

40 years in the engineering business during which I tried more than once on manual and CNC equipment to TURN old discs.

 

Grinding yes but even then it ain't worth it.

Edited 8 February, 2016 by DonjSZ5

[voxmagna]

There is a maximum wear thickness for discs which is often why they are never skimmed. I think the disc corrosion wear issue is down to the quality of the steel and its carbon  composition for best friction.  I left a set of part worn pads out in the rain once after fitting new. I  was surprised how hard the pads were and how much surface rust had got on the old pads from wear metal. I might consider trying a slightly softer pad with organic content, rather than the OE metal (steel?) impregnated type.