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Yeti roof bars


chimp1965

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Morning all

 

Going skiing at Easter and need some transverse roof bars to pick up the roof rails and mount a roof box.  Pukka Skoda?  Steel square section/cheap? Fluted aluminium unknown brand?  Thule aluminium?  Secondhand?

 

Of course if money was no object I'd go for Skoda, but am unsure of cost at the mo.

 

Give me some wisdom please.

Regards

TM

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Hi, I just brought the thule wingbars the other day and put them on my yeti, quality is top notch, more expensive than some£170,but dead quiet at all speeds, I know a lot of people who have brought the squarebars and they drum ,howl like hell .in my view I think the skoda ones sit up high , thule ones bit lower.

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There is a separate thread that debates this subject in detail. We have a cheap £60 set from t'internet that are fine for occasional (half a dozen times a year) use in my view. If you plan to keep them on the car permanently or have them on and off regularly I would pay a little more. The Skoda ones are certainly neatest, but do restrict you to the fixed points on the roof rails. If buying Skoda ones second hand, be sure you get the fixing studs that screw into the roof rail with them.

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Edited by Falmouthboy
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try the roof box company, I use aerobars which are aerofoil sectioned and were cheaper than thule bars, little or no noise, permanently mounted(off to the corner it is then!!) with little or no difference on economy of my car!

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I've got Thule square bars and the universal feet (confusingly there are two different universal feet so be careful if you go this route), and always found them perfectly satisfactory and unlike Phil007 never noticed any appreciable noise - but I don't leave them on when I'm not using them so if they are on the car there wil be a roofbox up there as well which may make difference.  

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I went for the Skoda bars as I found the generic Thule ones stuck out too much.

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I will be going the same way. What I learned so far was that some cheaper aftermarkets have the wrap around clamp, but do not fasten to the threaded holes. A pair of  light skiis won't be a problem, but I want the full weight load carrying capacity for timber and I don't want aftermarket roof bars sliding forwards.

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I will be going the same way. What I learned so far was that some cheaper aftermarkets have the wrap around clamp, but do not fasten to the threaded holes. A pair of  light skiis won't be a problem, but I want the full weight load carrying capacity for timber and I don't want aftermarket roof bars sliding forwards.

I bought a set of Thule bars and the strap around mounts you refer to. I have loaded them to and probably above the limit when collecting rough sawn hardwood for joinery work I often undertake. They are VERY solid. They also offer an overhang facility that the genuine bars do not, making it easier to strap timber down.

 

Colin

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I bought a set of Thule bars and the strap around mounts you refer to. I have loaded them to and probably above the limit when collecting rough sawn hardwood for joinery work I often undertake. They are VERY solid. They also offer an overhang facility that the genuine bars do not, making it easier to strap timber down.

 

Colin

Thanks I'll look at them. Can you get a sheet of plaster board or ply across the Thules or the OE? I had some cheap halfrauds on another car which were flat across the top with just plain caps on the tube ends and no upward loop eyes to restrict width. I needed a couple of inches over hang each side for boards. Years ago I learned if you carry just one board, lay a couple of lengths of sawn timber across the top and tie down the front! The carrying experience can be spectacular if you don't do it. I think a lot of the extra money for the OE goes into the locks. I've never felt the need to have locked roof bars, but then if they are expensive Skoda parts, perhaps they could get nicked?

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I have Thule Aerobars with the "wrap-around" strappy footpack - there is no way those bars are moving if you clamp them down properly, plus you get to choose to locate them wherever you want on the roof rails.  I strapped a 3m kitchen work surface to mine by putting them at the extreme front and back of the rails to help minimise overhang lengths.  Conversely I also carried a lawnmower on the top by having the bars mounted close together.  The extra sideways overhang is also useful if you want to, for example, mount a bike rack alongside a roofbox.

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I have Thule Aerobars with the "wrap-around" strappy footpack - there is no way those bars are moving if you clamp them down properly, plus you get to choose to locate them wherever you want on the roof rails.  I strapped a 3m kitchen work surface to mine by putting them at the extreme front and back of the rails to help minimise overhang lengths.  Conversely I also carried a lawnmower on the top by having the bars mounted close together.  The extra sideways overhang is also useful if you want to, for example, mount a bike rack alongside a roofbox.

Thanks- Can you put a flat sheet of board on them with a little bit of overhang?

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The extra sideways overhang is also useful if you want to, for example, mount a bike rack alongside a roofbox.

 

I agree. I've been on holiday with a smallish roofbox on one side of the bars and two large suitcase strapped to a purpose made platform on the other. Wouldn't have been possible with the Skoda bars but all absolutely secure and safe throughout the journey. 

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Thanks- Can you put a flat sheet of board on them with a little bit of overhang?

You could, although there is a slight 'bow' to the bars. Using a couple of lengths of timber between the bars (at right angles) would solve this, or using a deformable support under the sheet.

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I went for the Skoda bars as I found the generic Thule ones stuck out too much.

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...and I'm still able to fit a wide Thule roofbox and a Thule Snowpack 7322! ;-)

8f1f63289ead18a2c5c8bbbddf4ca724.jpg40004bef2b5dfca65ecedadc87373322.jpg4c163b937f0489076880683b43866563.jpg

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The "integral bars" on the roof are Roof Rails.

You then fix Roof Bars to those, so they are across the car, and fix the Roof Box to the Roof Bars.

You cannot fit a box directly to the Roof Rails.

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  • 1 month later...

I finally made a decision for roof bars on MY12 Yeti. I've had a Halfrauds set of steel roof bars for an older car for about 20 years, that car is now deceased. I only fit bars for carrying 8X2ft boards and 3M tube plastic gutter etc from B&Q when I need to carry. I've no need for a roof box, skiis or bikes.

 

Decided to take a punt on cheapo M-Way Eagle 1350 Ali bars off Fleabay for £35. Friction grip with 2 locks and load carrying rated 75-90 Kg. I might fit a couple of screws with large heads on the OE threaded holes to act as safety stops, but the friction at the moment seems pretty good. On the car they look good, but I shan't worry for the price if they get scuffed.  There is sufficient overhang at the bar ends to get ropes around. They are easily fitted with a long hexagon key and I just need some marks to make alignment and positioning easier next time. The push on end caps as with my old bars are going to come off and get lost sooner or later and I will fix those with a pop rivet.

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  • 2 months later...

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