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Bolero rear view camera


jeleoto

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Thanks to all for your posts.  I have changed the Mk2 Octy VRS for a Yeti 1.2.  It has the Bolero Infotainment radio with Reverse parking sensors installed.  I want to install a camera but the Stealer now says:

"I have spoken to our parts department regarding the cost of the reverse camera. They have informed me that we do not sell one as an accessory to be retrofitted".

Bah!!!  Hard to believe!  However I shall look into the Aliexpress item that Pab567 mentioned.  Fitting is not a problem, just a question of applying a little Zen ;)

A question please: NTSC is mentioned in the postings above.  Elsewhere I read that I need an RGB camera. Can I assume that an NTSC is indeed RGB  (Red/ Green/ Blue) ?  I suppose that all this means that it is not a PAL system?

Cheers

Clive

 

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  • 1 month later...

Further thoughts:  Has anyone fitted a camera to the tailgate internal trim of the Yeti?  Mounting a camera high up may not be ideal for aiming into a parking bay but I think that the mirrors are still ideal for that. An internal camera would of course keep clean and not be affected by mud or rain. Probably can't be seen from the outside, because of the tinted glass.   I experimented with my iPhone to get a general idea of what could be sighted at the back glass point and it seems that it would work OK.  Now to try and select a camera with a low profile case that will mount into the trim panel.

 

I also slipped the radio out and checked the connections, I now understand the business of Blue Connector, 6 and 12.  The pins are actually numbered in the moulding, visible when the big black socket is removed (it has a locking handle built in).

 

 

Edited by Clive1942
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My wife recently bought a Toyota Yaris Hybrid. Lovely device, but not a great fan of CVT gearboxes. However, a reversing camera is a standard fit, on all trim levels, I think. Great piece of kit and full colour display. Tempting to ask local Skoda dealer if retro-fit to the Fabia is feasible, and at what cost?

 

the Yaris is a really nice car and when she plugged in her iPod it just played with full functionality. My Fabia just says "Device not recognised" or somesuch claptrap, when I connect any iPod....and there doesn't seem to be a fix, either.  It's the little things that brass you off.

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My Yeti has the 'Infotainment' Bolero radio.  As such it should accept a camera signal input, once the coding has been sorted.  I asked the stealer about the Bluetooth and his reply was:

Majority of the Skoda range has the facilities to have smartlink activated however it is not a standard feature. I believe we can supply an activation code for £136.

 

If you would be interested in this please do let me know and I can arrange our parts department to give you a call!

What this means is that I would have to buy a licence from them to get the functions activated.  A nice profit line in 'Extra Overs' having paid a lot for the car.  This car was only 6 months old when I bought it and I wonder if they deactivate the functions when a car comes in from the previous owner, so they can resell the licence!

Possibly the iPod connection falls into this category too.

Regarding the camera, have you seen my post above (April 19th)?

On my Octavia I fitted a camera and that had a monitor built into the interior mirror.  I used Parkingcameras.com.  A bit pricey I thought but the service is sound.

 

Cheers

Clive

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Due to size restrictions, this will have to be in several parts:

At last the Yeti has a functioning reversing camera.  Here's a description of the installation.

 

Tooling Required:

*Multimeter.

 

*Forceps. <http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forceps-Fishing-6-8-10-12-Inch-Straight-Or-Curved-Carp-Pike-Sea-Fly-Locking-/261350566327?var=&hash=item3cd9b529b7:m:m6enPB2R-o4YgwBycwunP-w>

            (No, don't laugh, they really are useful. I've had some in my toolkit for well over 40 years and wouldn't be without them).

 

 

*Splined screwdriver bits.

 

*Trim removal tools:

<http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162439497701> 

 

*Springy curtain wire for threading and pulling wires through cavities.

 

*Electricians Cable Access rods:-

<https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p50619?table=no>

 

 

*Soldering Iron.  (Mine is a Dremel which is gas-powered.  Therefore, no danger of stray electrical charges feeding into the job).

 

*Terminal release tool:-  <https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_1505410463&feature=iv&src_vid=5rlXZUvhEsQ&v=bbW9Yc36RPE>  There are some el-cheapo terminal release tools on Ebay but they are made of aluminium so I imagine that they would not last very long.

 

*Heat-shrink tubing.

 

~~~~~~~~~~~

 

When I had the Octavia, I fitted a camera above the number plate, from <Parkingcameras.com>.  That system used the interior mirror as a viewing screen.  Fairly pricey but very good service from those people.

 

For this Yeti, I bought a cheap camera from Ebay and have mounted it inside the car, at the top of the tailgate trim.  It can be adjusted downwards and provides a good enough view starting around 60cm from the bumper.  The sighting lines built into the display show me that once I pass the yellow line, that is close enough! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252838192341  Mine was £10.29, free postage from Manchester.  I try to avoid getting stuff from China due to the timescale – even though the product is Chinese.

 

First off was to get the Bolero Infotainment system prepared so with the radio removed  (trim surround and 4 screws)  I wired up a link on a Phono cable, plugged into the back of the radio.  The wires go into terminals 6 and 12 of the blue socket. I've used Blue and Yellow wires, those colours being available to me.

Thanks to PAB567, I learned that the connections are #6 Positive, #12 Negative (earth).   

 

The radio terminals are 0.6mm diameter so finding connectors is difficult.  These might be OK

<http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-VW-VAG-High-Quality-1-5mm-Micro-Timer-II-Terminals-Seals-/131408283609?hash=item1e988b47d9>  But I have no assurance on size. 

 

 

IMG_0689.JPG

Edited by Clive1942
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Part 2

So, looking through my "useful raw materials" I realised that these Female connectors would do the trick: 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Row-of-40-pcs-Arduino-Breadboard-Dupont-Jump-Wire-M-M-M-F-F-F-Jumper-Cable-Lead-/322593831895?var=&hash=item4b1c173bd7:m:m2upkrjglA0aa3LVtIFjC_g These are jump leads for electronics breadboards.  Just flick the plastic cover off the end and there is a terminal of the right size.  You only need 2! (And much cheaper than those referenced above).

 

With a camera fully connected and laying on the seat, the next step was a visit to my local specialist, SJB Autotech in Basingstoke to get the camera code enabled.  With the camera already connected, we could see right away that the coding was correct.

 

Now to instal the camera, so off with the tailgate trim.  I recommend a set of trim removing tools as above.  I chose something cheap with postage included.  No great worries on quality as these tools are somewhat expendable as they do collect wear marks and scars with use.

 

Wiring was next.  First off, the RHR tail lamp assembly was removed and the multi-plug disconnected. 

 

Elephant's Trunk and Tailgate Wiring:

Don't worry or panic about the elephant's trunk, it's quite simple and works like this: 

Gently peel the rubber trunk from both ends, it comes away rather like a grommet and exposes the plastic inserts at each end which engage in the holes in the bodywork. 

With a tiny screwdriver or small wire hook with flattened end, release the holding catches and ease the inserts away from the apertures.

When replacing, refit the inserts into each end of the trunk rubber, then push/click back into the holes in the bodywork.  When you are doing some wiring, do remember to thread the wire through both inserts as well as the trunk!

IMG_0708.JPG

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Part three

I had marked off the trim where I wanted to fix the camera before stripping down, so I screwed it into position on the inner face of the top trim and, with a small notch filed into the front edge (away from the glass) of the trim plastic, fed the wires through one of the slots close to the high-level brake lights.   Then through the elephants trunk and plastic inserts and down into the Right hand 'D' pillar (that's the rearmost one). A bit of fishing with the curtain wire between the top aperture and the tail lamp loom soon had the camera wires down the pillar, grabbed with the forceps and out into the tail lamp space.  So, we now had the power wire, earth and video feed available.  I had real trouble finding an earth point.  There are one or two screw heads visible but they must be into plastic nuts, as I couldn't get continuity. The obvious thing was to screw the earth direct to the body, behind the tail light inner housing. (Picture is further down).

  

Next step was to provide a power supply for the camera. I tapped into the reverse lamp loom for this.  The reverse light supply terminal needs to be unlatched and removed from the terminal block with a Terminal Release Tool.  Mine was the Blue wire in the centre of three.

 

 

IMG_0718.JPG

Edited by Clive1942
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Part Five

The wrapping is textile so it's easy to make a small hole and feed in the wire.  I carefully unwrapped the loom cover and brought the new wire out to the terminal position.  Heat shrink tubing in place ready and a quick touch of solder of the Positive onto the wire end of the reverse lamp terminal.  The heat shrink was then pulled forward and heated and the terminal replaced in its block.  The top section of the terminal block opens up which helps access when pulling the terminal out and replacing after soldering the feed wire.

IMG_0721.JPG

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Part six

The earth was fitted with a ring terminal and attached to the body with a self tapping screw.  I positioned the screw close to the loom aperture so it sits inside the tail lamp inner seal area.  The terminal and screw were brushed with vaseline before installing.  I use vaseline because it's inert - no detergents or other fillers.  (It's the same when protecting battery terminals before connecting).  The continuity isn't affected because screwing the job together ensures metal to metal contact but any remaining vaseline keeps out moisture and helps prevent corrosion.

 

IMG_0723.JPG

Edited by Clive1942
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Part Seven (final part)

Next problem was threading the Video cable along the right-hand-side to the front of the car.  Removal of the door seal rubber around the door lock striker area allows the plastic trim to be eased slightly.  That will expose a void where the cable can drop in.  With the rear quarter inner panel  removed and a screw or two from the boot trim plus a torch, I was able, using a combination of electrician's access rods and curtain wire to get the video cable along to the RH rear door aperture. That bit is awkward as there is some foam rubber stuffing inside the trim board.  After that it was simply a matter of pulling the door seals away and laying the cable into the void.  Up the RH footwell and into the fuse box space, completing the cable run.  The Cable to the radio was already in place (SJB Autotech previously enabled and tested the coding with the camera hanging on a test lead).

 

The door seals can be eased off using a trim tool but refitting is a matter of pushing back onto the door flanges and a quick wriggle and thump to seat them.

 

Refitting the Tailgate Trim.

Elsewhere in Briskoda there are diagrams of the trim panels and the trim clip positions.  Some clips stayed in the trim upon removal, others pulled out and stayed in the tailgate.  Remove those in the tailgate with pliers, straighten and place into the trim panels.  Being fussy, I brushed a little vaseline on each trim clip to help remounting.  At this stage an assistant with a broom is useful to support one side whilst you work on the other.  Lift and locate the upper trim panel, then when the clips are located simply thump the trim into place. Repeat for the lower panel.  Replace the pull handle screw.  The parcel shelf pegs are plastic so do not overtighten.

 

Close the tailgate, switch on and engage reverse, adjust the camera angle for desired view. The closest you can get will be 2 or 3 feet back from the bumper.

Happy and safe reversing!

Cheers,

Clive

Edited by Clive1942
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  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...

Hi Joao, Good question, it made me think hard for a few minutes! 

The camera cable is of course supplying the video signal.

Be sure that your video cable is long enough to run from the camera to the back of the radio.  On my Yeti I got the longer cable which was available.  It's easy to lose extra length by looping up but near to impossible if everything is too tight.  My video cable is threaded through the Elephant's Trunk at the top of the tailgate, then across the rear header and down the 'D' pillar towards the tail light.  Then it can be passed along the side of the luggage compartment (just below the window) until it reaches the rear door opening.  Work the cable inside the trim down to the rear floor, then along the sill interior moulding. You may have to lift off the door aperture seal to do this, it will come off with a wriggle and pull.  That will release the edge of the plastic trim.  With a little patience, you will be able to get the cable all the way forward right up to the 'A' Pillar and the fuse box.

Hopefully this answers your question, if not, please let us know.

Cheers,  Clive

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Sorry, I was I little confused but after some careful reading I think I understood. I need to cut the rca cable ad plug them in pin 6 and 12 right? 

 

The worst part is the activation. I have vcds but I don't see any place on any module to activate. I don't have original parking sensors or GPS. 

 

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Yes you will need to cut the cable, as the RCA end terminals are too large to  fit into the radio at Pins 6 and 12. (#6 Positive, #12 Negative (earth).

The terminals which will fit into the radio can be cannibalised from these:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-65-Breadboard-Jumper-Leads-Wires-Cables-Solderless-Arduino-Circuit-Test-By/201542632909?epid=1743032717&hash=item2eece085cd:g:wHgAAOSwyjBW6KwY:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

ATB

Clive

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Thank you so much. The installation is the the easy part. The only doubt was where to plug the rca cable ☺. 

I will try to activate myself the camera in the infotainment module but I think I do not have access to the long coding. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it seems impossible to activate the camera. I connected everything but it does not work. I installed the module 6c (rear view camera) in can gateway list but when I ty to access it it does not work. There is no way (that I know) to activate. I took a picture to show you what modules I have. 

What can I do?

IMG_20190120_163559.jpg

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Hello Joao, The details you show look OK but I would emphasise that I had SJB at Basingstoke do the coding for me. 

The only other thing that I can think of is to ask how you are powering the camera? The feed for the camera needs to come from the reversing light feed (which is alongside the tail light loom).

Alternatively try testing the installation with a jump lead from the cigar lighter to the camera to prove that it will work.

ATB  Clive

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Hi Clive,

Thank you for your answer.

I fed the camera straight from a car battery charger. I will try to ask directly to my dealers garage but they usually don't like to do this kind of things or ask way to much money to do it. 

 

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