Citigo starts and dies in seconds - help needed please!

[SC1]

Hi all

 

New to this as need some help with my other halfs Citigo. Its a 62 plate manual car and has developed a problem. She is away for a while and I gave it a good 200 mile run. After that it worked fine as I moved it around to give it a wash and polish. Next time I tried to start it.....

 

When started it runs for about 3 seconds normally, then dies. Attempting to restart it just cranks. Video attached.

 

It is being started with clutch depressed. I have tried the spare key in case of an issue with the immobiliser chip. I have tried ensuring the start-stop is off before start. It has the correct fuel. On turning the key off and on I can hear what I believe to be the fuel pump priming - but it will still only crank unless left for half an hour or so and then itll fire again - but only for the 3 seconds. 

I have tried applying power after start, but if anything I would say that killed it slightly quicker which was leading me to think fuel starvation. I have checked the fuel pump fuse.

 

Video if dash during start attempt:

http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah304/scg661/th_IMG_29271_zps9yzwwvtq.mp4

 

Any ideas would be great as she'll be back in a couple of weeks. Thanks in advance!

Edited 9 March, 2016 by SC1

[KenONeill]

I still find myself thinking immobiliser or fuel pump, but without diagnostic codes it's a case of "they're only golden, not crystal" I'm afraid.

[Chris GB]

Need to get a code reader on it. The check engine light is staying on longer than it should, so there should be a code stored.

[deejay1001]

I would guess fuel filter or kink/dent in fuel line, throw any stones up on your run?

I could of course be completely wrong but without access to diagnostics they're what I would check first.

[smargh]

Since the battery light pops up again (I know it's after the engine has stopped, but still...), and in the absence of a VCDS reader, if you have a multimeter then perhaps check the battery voltage before cranking (engine cold and left idle for a day), and then with the engine running.

I'm happy to check my own '63 plate greentech if you want a comparison voltage. Should apparently be 13-14 volts on a running engine.

I think some places also do a free battery check service, which includes a cranking amps check. My second service included a battery test printout.

Also, you mentioned a wash and polish. You didn't pressure-wash the engine bay, right?

Edited 9 March, 2016 by smargh

[Updown789]

I guess either Crank sensor or coolant sensor

[Hyphons]

So, to get it straight,

 

Your warning light "Control system for exhaust" is staying on, then your "Generator" in the owners manual it says:

 

Exhaust

 

"The warning light  comes on after the ignition has been switched on. If the warning light does not go out after starting the engine or it lights up when driving, a fault exists in an exhaust relevant component. The engine management system selects an emergency programme which enables you to drive to the nearest specialist garage by adopting a gentle style of driving. "

 

Battery

 

"The warning light  comes on after the ignition has been switched on. It should go out after the engine has started. If the warning light does not go out after the engine has started, or comes on when driving, drive to the nearest specialist garage. The vehicle battery will be discharged in this case so switch off all non-essential electrical components."

 

Bearing that second one in mind, perhaps change the battery?

Edited 10 March, 2016 by Hyphons

[Updown789]

Nahh if battery was knacked it wouldn't start

[Hyphons]

Nahh if battery was knacked it wouldn't start

Mm, but if it's the exhaust (I guess a sensor) why would the car not start? The owners manual says if that is the case it should in theory go into limp mode

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[Updown789]

It's not the exhaust, but without a vcds scan then we better get out our crystal balls

[Scottk]

Isn't there a clutch switch? Try starting without depressing the clutch.

[SC1]

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Multimeter was broken but got a new one today and it was 12.2V engine off, couldnt get an engine running reading as it wont last long enough and Im by myself. It still fires after being sat so I would have thought the battery is OK - could be wrong of course.

 

Stupidly I hadnt even noticed the "Control system for exhaust" (I always thought to be an engine management warning) warning light staying on when the engine runs for the few seconds. As quoted aboveIve looked at the Owners Manual and it suggests it should be in limp mode with an exhaust related component failure. This also reminded me that just before the other half went away in early January, she had driven back with this light on and I looked it up as it should have been in limp mode but she hadnt noticed any difference and it had gone on the next start.

 

The generator light only comes on once it has died again which is, I suppose what would be expected, as it would should you stall.

 

I dont have a code reader available to me so I suppose Ill need to get it towed to a garage for diagnosis.

 

The possibility of it being the crank sensor is what was worrying me - sounds common enough from previous searches...and expensive. Would that illuminate the "Control system for exhaust" warning light?

 

Re the clutch switch - I suppose there must be something as they wont attempt to start at all without the clutch depressed, will they?

 

Thanks again for all the replies.

[Hyphons]

Which model do you have? Mine starts all the time with the clutch depressed

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[SC1]

According to the service book its a Citigo ElegG 55KW - which Im assuming makes it an Elegance G-Tec? (wouldnt normally be as clueless but as I say its not mine!)

[Hyphons]

According to the service book its a Citigo ElegG 55KW - which Im assuming makes it an Elegance G-Tec? (wouldnt normally be as clueless but as I say its not mine!)

Yeah Greentec, explain why you have to depress the clutch

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[SC1]

I know its sensible to do it anyway but if the clutch is not depressed nothing at all happens when you turn the key - the starter wont run.

 

Page 60 of the owners manual - 'Starting engine' "Fully depress and hold clutch pedal, switch on the ignition [2] >> Fig.61 and start [3] - do not operate the accelerator. Depress the clutch pedal until the engine starts"

 

Therefore I am assuming there is a switch on the clutch pedal as 'Scottk' asked.

 

I know my own car requires the brake pedal to be pressed to start.

[dave hendy]

The Citigo along with the majority of manual cars have a clutch switch. Your car wouldn't crank if this was faulty. I don't think it's your crankshaft position sensor either as the car starts. Your cheapest option might be to get a cheap code reader that covers VW off eBay but this doesn't always give you the exact cause. If you are not mechanically minded it might be a better option to get a reputable local garage or mobile mechanic to look at it. This might be the quickest and cheapest option in the long run?

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[SC1]

Well it's been towed to a garage. AA say there's no voltage over the fuel pump. There is at the fuse box so he reckoned an issue somewhere in the wiring loom between the fuel pump and the fuse box.

[Ychuter]

What was the problem with the car in the end? My car is exactly the same and it has been diagnosed as needing a new dash panel at a cost of £600!!  My car broke down 14 weeks ago today and it has been in the Skoda garage all that time as they can't get the part.  have been told today that part will be in on the 19 September!!!!  I am exasperated with it all now and I just don't know what to do if the part doesn't come in.

[Updown789]

I can't imagine it would actually be needing a cluster at the cars age. I think the dealer is having you on.

[KenONeill]

What was the problem with the car in the end? My car is exactly the same and it has been diagnosed as needing a new dash panel at a cost of £600!!  My car broke down 14 weeks ago today and it has been in the Skoda garage all that time as they can't get the part.  have been told today that part will be in on the 19 September!!!!  I am exasperated with it all now and I just don't know what to do if the part doesn't come in.

I'd be using phrases like "not of merchantable quality", and "not meeting a reasonable expected life" in a meeting with the "Dealer Principal" if that was my car.