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2.0 tdi fuel filter replacement


dfps

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Hi,

 

Has anyone one the forum changed the fuel filter on a post 2009 2.0 tdi.

Mine is a 2012 170 Skoda Yeti with the 2.0 tdi CFJA engine.

 

With earlier VAG tdi engines it was possible to replace the fuel filter and simply top up the filter cannister with diesel

and reconnect the pipework and turn the car over for the diesel pipes to prime with fuel.

On post 2009 engines I am led to believe that VCDS is needed to prime both pumps as they do not now self prime  but I have seen youtube vids showing people following the old method of filling the filter and cannister with diesel and not using VCDS.

 

Don't want to screw my engine up so would appreciate any advice for someone who has done the job.

 

Thanks

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I've done my CEGA engine three times. Once without using VCDS!

Didn't have any issues but I did ensure I primed the fuel line by turning the ignition on a couple of times first.

As I have VCDS, I'll be using that from now on having read some of the scare stories about not using it. There most be some truth in there somewhere.

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Thanks for the reply.

Have seen so many videos on youtube of the post 2009 2.0 Tdi  fuel filters being changed without doing anything more than filling the filter and cannister with diesel before refitting the canister lid but  have now found this youtube clip showing how to use VCDS to prime the pumps.

 

Comments, opinions please-----thanks

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I'm in the same boat - the fuel filter is due a change on my 2012 Yeti (CFJA engine).  Looking at ElsaWin, the "bleeding operation" using the VCDS runs the fuel pump for 180 seconds to purge the system.  I would assume that turning the ignition on and off (without starting the engine) a good few times should achieve the same effect.  The issue is that if there is air in the high pressure system, the injectors and pump will run dry leading to potential damage.

 

Not sure whether to risk it or get a quote from the dealer to do just a filter change (and possibly the brake fluid) - did my old Octavia (1.9 TDI engine) without VCDS no problem.

 

Cheers,

Andrew

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After seeing that video I'm deffo going to utilise VCDS when I'm ready to change my fuel filter. Too many fuel pumps to risk getting an airlock although I bet you would get away without doing it 99% of the time but who knows what problems it can lead to further down the road.

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I am in the same position with my Yeti 2.0 TDI CR SE 2011 model having covered 72,000 miles. Have just had the cambelt and water pump changed by a main dealer in Norwich and the car came back with a 10mm nut missing on the fuel filter bracket plus the lower timing cover clip not fastened properly. Wanted to change the fuel filter myself as it is at the front and dead easy to takeout. Then read up about using VCDS that I do not have thinking just topping up the fuel would be no problem and screwing the lid back on?

Had read that you can take off the electrical plugs to the two pumps and hot wire  them with a 12 volt dc source. But what a pain and having forked out for a BMW GS-911 software package did not want to pay out again for another one that would run the Yeti.

Can you get away with filling up the container to the top and making sure there is as little air as possible at the top. Assuming that the fuel pick up is far lower down in the diesel fuel for the mechanical pump and let the electric pumps bleed out any small pockets of air right at the top once the engine starts up. Anybody put in a new filter without the cambus purging system? Rather loath to take it back to the main dealer and get charged after the recent work done.

 

FlyingBrick

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I am in the same position with my Yeti 2.0 TDI CR SE 2011 model having covered 72,000 miles. Have just had the cambelt and water pump changed by a main dealer in Norwich and the car came back with a 10mm nut missing on the fuel filter bracket plus the lower timing cover clip not fastened properly. Wanted to change the fuel filter myself as it is at the front and dead easy to takeout. Then read up about using VCDS that I do not have thinking just topping up the fuel would be no problem and screwing the lid back on?

Had read that you can take off the electrical plugs to the two pumps and hot wire  them with a 12 volt dc source. But what a pain and having forked out for a BMW GS-911 software package did not want to pay out again for another one that would run the Yeti.

Can you get away with filling up the container to the top and making sure there is as little air as possible at the top. Assuming that the fuel pick up is far lower down in the diesel fuel for the mechanical pump and let the electric pumps bleed out any small pockets of air right at the top once the engine starts up. Anybody put in a new filter without the cambus purging system? Rather loath to take it back to the main dealer and get charged after the recent work done.

 

FlyingBrick

 

Instead of wiring 12v straight to the lift pump, find the fuel pump relay and make a short with 2 spade crimps on. These fit nicely in the relay base and will allow you run the lift pump for a few minutes to get most if not all of the air out of the filter. A little bit of air in the system isn't going to harm anything but a full blown air lock with no fuel being delivered to the main HPFP isn't going to be good.

 

So I would say if you don't have VCDS, at least run the lift pump for a few mintues

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I've done it without using VCDS or any additional pump as I've already said.

Did it on the Yeti and my Octavia prior to knowing that VCDS should be used.

It can be done without, and perhaps I was lucky on the occasions I did it (only once on the Yeti), but I'm not taking any responsibility if it goes wrong.

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I've done it without using VCDS or any additional pump as I've already said.

Did it on the Yeti and my Octavia prior to knowing that VCDS should be used.

It can be done without, and perhaps I was lucky on the occasions I did it (only once on the Yeti), but I'm not taking any responsibility if it goes wrong.

Ditto on my Yeti (CFJA 170)
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Thanks SuperbTWM

 

Had not thought of that one.

Sounds like the safest way to go about it without VCDS in my garage. Would have given it a go without any pumping as KBPhoto and muddy boots but as it is not mine but the Mrs who has to travel around the countryside every day for work did not want to **** it up and get an ear full.

Might be able to get the garage in question to put one in for me with the use of VCDS having made a couple of mistakes fitting the belt and pump that I decided not to do on this occasion. Otherwise I will use my spade jump leads I mad up years ago for testing out white goods to hot wire the relay.

 

Thanks everybody for such good advice before I make a mistake and wreck a high pressure pump.

 

FlyingBrick

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  • 4 weeks later...

Nothing will happen to a fuel pump if there is air in the system...do not turn it on for more than few seconds if you thin there is air ! ...

these systems don't fail easily...

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