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Dashcam wiring - Nextbase kit


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I was just wondering if anyone has used this kit, and how easy it is for a total novice with basically no tools? I know where the fuse box is, am fairly sure I can feed the cable under the black edge up the side of the car as I did that with the lighter socket one, and vaguely get the fuse thing.

Mainly, I'm not sure about what to use as an earth point, whether I'll need to take anything off to get the cable from the fuse box to the edge of the car, and which fuse is best (maybe an empty one I can use?).

Any advice or even telling me I should get a professional gratefully received. :D The car is practically brand new.

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That's brilliant, thankyou!

Only questions so far are, is it possible for me to get the fuses the wrong way round, or is it literally a case of putting the one from the car in an empty gap? And would you know of anywhere in the high street that might have the tubing, as I'm going shopping tomorrow anyway? :)

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For the fuse just place the one that you remove into the empty slot on the piggyback fuse in the nextbase kit. The only thing to watch is to make sure to fit it with the wire coming out the bottom as this allows the current to flow correctly through it rather than putting extra current through the original circuit.

I don't know anywhere that sells it off the top of my head. I work for Halfords so get mine from work but we don't actually sell it, it's a consumable item for the store. However if your local store is friendly enough then they might give you some if they have plenty, even if you offer them a couple of quid.

Or try somewhere like Maplin, B&Q or screw fix. But they might sell it in too big a diameter. Ideally you want 10mm for running behind the dash.

If you search on google for corrugated conduit 10mm there are a few results.

Good luck with the fitting, let us know how it goes!

 

Edit:

 

Here's a couple of clearer photos of fuse location and earth.

 

image_zpswwy47qa7.png

 

image_zpsq4thujsd.jpeg

Edited by TheFlash
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I followed The Flash's method although I did not use the tubing (cos I didn't have any) and I did not loosen the fuse box. There is a hole in the moulding that the fusebox mounts to that I was able to push the wire through from behind the dash and in front of the fusebox. If you look down towards the fusebox from behind it - down throgh the opening that is created when the plastic side panel is removed - you will see daylight and shove the wire through that hole. The whole job takes about 30 mins to complete but about 10 mins of that is fiundding a 13mm spanner.

 

Do the job with the ignition off or you might cause problems. This is really a simple job to do and is far better looking than having the cigarette lighter cable lying about.

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Go without. That's what I did and have had no problems. As far as I could tell, there is nothing behind the fusebox which is likely to damage the wire nor is there anything behind the A pillar trim or the roof lining. I can see the tubing as a belt and braces solution but the installation is fine without.

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Yeah just go without.

Just be sure that if the wires are near the bare metal that's behind the dash panel that they won't rub and eventually wear through with vibration. Put tape over the sharp edge for example.

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It's a fairly straightforward job.

 

The next base kit comes with a piggyback fuse which will slot into an existing fuse slot and allow you to take power from it.

 

This is how I fitted mine:

.......

 

Thanks for posting this helpful info. I'd already wired my own dashcam, along with a battery discharge prevention device. However, my wires came out the bottom of the fusebox (the gap between the cover), taped to the underside and back up behind the dash.

 

As my add-a-fuse(s) were already crimped, I fully undid the right-hand T20 screw on the fusebox, giving enough room to poke the wires through from behind. The smaller wires they attach to don't seem to be pinched in any way when the screw is tightened back up. Much neater now.

 

Thanks again.

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All done, thank you :)  Not nearly as professional looking as the photos above, but it works! :D

 

Top of screen, left a little slack in case I move it slightly.

 

WP_20160529_16_36_43_Pro.jpg

 

Fuse box, I couldn't see any holes except where the cover hooks in, so we undid it quite a long way to push the cable through.... hope that looks ok.

 

WP_20160529_16_25_32_Pro.jpg

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The most difficult part was getting the fuse out!  No idea if it is because they're brand new, but it wouldn't shift. :D

 

We put the connector behind the trim panel, I'm now wondering if it should've gone on the fusebox side in case it works loose.  We could barely get it done up in the gap behind the panel, so I'm suddenly wondering if it was meant to be the other side!

Edited by Eeeekkk
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Looks a good job to me!

 

Do you mean the blue bullet connector? If so it doesn't really matter which side you put it on, as long as it was pushed together tightly it shouldn't come apart. However wrapping it  with some tape will make sure it definitely won't.

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I think ours was a red connector, but where the fuse end joins the power cable. I don't think we made life easy for ourselves as we threaded the bottom half through past the fuse box then did it up on the other side. Neither of us had small enough hands to get the tape round it :D

I don't think I would've managed without the instructions, I was a bit wary of pulling to pieces a car I've only had a week. A plastic filler spatula is great for levering edges. :D

Edited by Eeeekkk
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Don't worry if you can't get tape round it. They do have a firm hold!

 

Sometimes pulling new cars apart is easier than older cars! Everything isn't held together by years of grime  :D

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  • 1 month later...

I've just fitted the kit to the wife's Fabia. I used the last but one fuse position on the middle row (heated seats, according to the manual) as that had no fuse in it but was ignition live.  I had a roll of cloth tape and used that around the various wiring bundles to stop any rattling and protect from sharp edges when cable-tying the gubbins to the metalwork shown in the OP's 4th picture.  I didn't fit the ferrite core as, unlike my Superb, there wasn't any room behind the headlining at the windscreen.  If she reports issues without it I'll have another ponder.  :wonder:

 

Undoing the fuse box to push the cable through is a great tip  :clap:   I completely removed the screw, pushed a long cable-tie through the gap, taped the bullet connector to it and pulled it through before replacing the screw.

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HI all, 

 

I will be getting this week 2x nextbase 212 cameras. recently had a near miss and the other person said I should have been more careful. He was talking twaddle but either way I need to get some put in just incase.

 

I know nothing about any of this sort of practical thing - infact I'm useless lol. But off the top of anyone's heads - which 2 fuse ports could I safely use?

 

I assume I'll have to get 2x kits to hardline it in?

 

I'm buying the cameras from halfords and they say they're fitted with fag adaptor 12v socket for power - do these kits (i'll get from ebay??) just let the 12v plug in and you're left with a fuse to plug in?

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The kits don't use the 12v adapter. They take a feed off a fuse and then run directly onto an inline voltage dropper then onto the camera after that.

Are you fitting one of the cameras in the rear window and one in front?

If so youll need to extend the power wire and run this down the length of the car and into the boot. Then earth it from somewhere in the boot.

You could run 2 wiring kits off a single fuse slot though. Just join the 2 power wires into a single bullet connector then into the fuse adapter to create a parallel circuit.

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I have gone for a next base duo dashcam. Ok quality and saves on the installation of two separate cameras.

Bought the hardware kit.

Which exact fuse slot can I use? Any open one? Will my first time opened fuse box look exactly like the first picture?

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Yeah your fusebox should look identical.

 

You can use the second fuse slot in on the second row of mini fuses. I added a better picture further down the thread with an arrow on for a bit of clarification.

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I've just fitted my camera - looks great. Couldn't poke the red wire through the fuse board by pushing it back - that torx20 does NOT want to go back in. Done it as much as I can but still a little bit lose as the torx20 didn't fully wind in. I did as an above member suggests and used the hole that the fuse cover uses. This a Problem? it's 3/4 done up.

Getting the wire under the A pillar was a ballache for some reason. Used the exact same fuse placement (fuse 30) and everything works ok but I'm not that practical so I'm now worried I have somehow fooked the electrics lol. All earthed fine.

Turns on when ignition started and turns off about 3 seconds after switched off.

Happy days.

Will post my pics when at a proper computer. Cannot do it on iPhone.

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