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help please deadlocked octavia


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has anyone got any other idea , i have an 2002 octavia est - I have followed the thread -octavia 1 door-locked -deadlocked, by darrellg ,i have taken the door card off - cut away &  got to the cog, turned it to the right all the way , then left, - no change!

when i operate the central locking the button on the door goes up and down , but still deadlocked. this is a new lock i bought a few months ago, but only had it fitted 3 weeeks ago, it worked for a week!

2 nd problem mot is due! -

problem 3 I am a disabled driver so need the car daily

 

if i get it unlocked do folks recommend replacing it , or should it be ok?

 i have found these in stock http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151711923437?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

these are 8 pin? are they all 8 pin

- has anybody used this firm?carparts direcy ilford  or recommend another?

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I would replace it if you can get it off, alot of people fit the Chinese ebay specials with no worries. Was it this post you found?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/112185-door-card-removal-from-deadlocked-octavia/

I took a gamble and went for a used gen one and soaked it in wd40 and grease before fitting, was fine

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Thump hard..

Is it definitely deadlocked? I replaced mine with a chinese one and after 6 weeks it failed to open - button popping motor spinning but wouldnt open. Turned i had over tightened the pull cable for the outer door handle , mis counted the poxy threads when putting it back. Loosened it one after a full door stripping and its been fine since..

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I replaced the original borked door lock with a chinese ebay special (having done the usual to get it open) when i put the outer door handle cable onto the door pull it seems i pulled it too tight.

So the dead lock slide couldnt move properly (i think)

I had stripped the door card etc again to see what was going on. Loosened eveything and then, it started working while i tested it with the door open - pushing the clasp with a screw driver to simulate closing it.

literally the only thing changed was how many threads were retaining the outer door pull and it started working again..

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do you mean the bolts holding in the lock were to tight? [bolts on the door edge?], if so i cant get to them.

no the cable gripper threads on outside door pull cable

Edut - 8th pic,ignore its a furby lock mechs are all the same really

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/113882-removing-a-door-handle-fabia-and-octavia/

Edited by mac11irl
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thanks, i didint fit the lock myself,

how do i get to he outer door cable thread,

i have stripped the door card out etc, can you get to this cable while it is locked/

sorry i am probably being thick

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thanks a lot-

may be it me being thick but i think mac 11 irl is meaninghe replaced the door handle to the central locking mechanism?

i have only replaced the internat central locking mechanism & not the part that contect to the door handle itself

pics 20 - 23 seem to show the micro switch [red & blue wires,] i cant get to them? or to the torx screw that releases the outside door mechanism

 sorry if i am missing something , i will read through again

Edited by jon davies
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If we are talking about the lock mechanism that is visible with the door open and looking at the latch of the door, then it is connected to the inner handle by a cable similar to a cycle brake cable (over simplified - but you get the basic idea). It is also connected to the outer door handle by a plastic strap, similar to a cable tie on the end of a cable with serrations on its edge that lock into the outer handle mechanism.

 

If when you rebuild the car after fitting a lock, you stretch that serrated strap too tightly when refitting it into the outer handle, then the lock will not relax enough to release the deadlock, and so appear to be jammed. Resetting the cable to where it was in length when originally removed normally effects a cure.

 

If however we are talking about the door locking electronic module attached to the window regulator motor, then none of the above applies, as the lock and handle should not have needed to be disturbed to renew it.

 

The thing is, there are not to my knowledge any dedicated how to's to just remove the lock on here, so all the linked threads will be for different end results, you just stop at the point you need to, i.e, if you just want to get the lock out and replace it, don't read the bits about the microswitch or removing the outer handle, but you still need to disconnect it from the lock and then remove the lock from the door, so both threads should give enough "fill in the blanks" info between them.

 

Hopefully I explained that well enough, as I'm not good at explaining stuff, but if not just ask what you need to know.

Edited by kentphil1
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No i replaced the locking mechanism.

it just took stubornness (and luck)to eventually get the lock to release and open the door... then do as i did to relax the pull cable.

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thanks every one  for you patience,  i will have to go and try again, giving it a big thump?

when i eventually it open i will check the cable between the handle & mechanism.

does any one know , the seller on e bay wants to know is the coonector plug an 8 pin ?

[ i have also tried to remove the electric plug with no success]

Edited by jon davies
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with a lot of thumping, i got the door open!!!!

tried to undo the t20 torx to slide the blank lock cover to check the cable from the mechanism to the handle- but i havent the right screw diver - no success

squited wd40 over all parts, & it seams to work. -then it locked up again and wouldnt reopen

after lots of attempts and more thumps,i pushed the mechanism body from the inside, - towards the outside door skin, then on the next attempt to lock, it worked again

 

do folks think , this could be the short cable is to tight? or i just have a dud mechanism?

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In fairness it could be either, but the cable over tight would be higher on my list than a defective new unit - and its a lot cheaper to fix.

 

Also you only need to loosen that T20 Torx bolt, you don't have to remove it, if you do it is a bit of a pig to refit. use a torx bit in a ratchet rather than a screwdriver, it could be nipped up rather tight.

Edited by kentphil1
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That sou d s very like its the outer cable is a smidge too tight if pushing mech outwards allwed it to work. Need a fairly long torx to get in far enough,i used a long tx head and 2 adapters to make my screw driver long enough.

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