Handbrake adjustment

[spartacus68]

I've serviced the Fabia last weekend at 62k miles. The handbrake has never been great on account if the rear drums, but now it's shocking. I fitted new front vented discs (surprisingly 288mm vented) on a 1.6 oil burner! Bled brakes all round, etc.

Anyway, rear cylinders were leaking, so fitted new parts including spring kit. Prior to that it had new shoes, so after cleaning everything up I rebuilt. I adjusted the shoes using the shoe lever pin and a bradawl via access hole on the drum. I also dismantled the central console and checked the handbrake cable. It's at the maximum, so no further adjustment possible.

Handbrake feels tight enough, and I know it's meant to self adjust, but quite honestly it's dangerous, and MOT is due soon, so can't see this passing. Could rear drums be worn significantly that they need to be renewed too?

Any tips please?

[Tech1e]

Sounds like either the cables have stretched (less than £20 for a new pair) or something isn't assembled correctly.

[MarkTB]

I have been told my a VAG independent garage that i use that they only fit genuine shoes. They told me that no matter what they did/tried they could never get the hadnbrake to hold on aftermarket shoes, but never have an issue with genuines. I'll be honest, i'm looking at retrofitting discs to my wife's fab.

[Tech1e]

A chap in the classifieds is selling a whole rear beam from a VRS.

[2ndskoda]

I would say that your first move is to let off the handbrake cables completely. This allows the mechanism to fully return to the correct at rest/starting position (ensure that they do) - it is the very first part of applied mechanical movement that is the most effective. THEN you do the adjustment to the rear brakes.   With this done, you can then correctly adjust the cables accordingly. If you are alive to this procedure - then fine.

 

I mention this because as many years as a MOT tester - the number one failure was handbrake, and in almost all cases owners wrongly tightening the handbrake cable(s) in the false belief this would overcome their problem.

[spartacus68]

Thank you for the tips. Half decent day today, so raised the car and took the wheels off. Cleaned the drums with methylated spirit, and the lightly cleaned the shoes. Also sprayed white lithium grease on some of the springs, and the shoe arm as I know these invariably seize.

Fully opened the shoes and took the tension off the adjustment lever pin. Put the drums back on and adjusted the lever pin back down with a bradawl, so the shoes lightly contact the drums. With handbrake on now it's perfect, and the car remains stationary. Even tried slightly edging forward, solid as a rock.

[Tech1e]

I would say that your first move is to let off the handbrake cables completely. This allows the mechanism to fully return to the correct at rest/starting position (ensure that they do) - it is the very first part of applied mechanical movement that is the most effective. THEN you do the adjustment to the rear brakes.   With this done, you can then correctly adjust the cables accordingly. If you are alive to this procedure - then fine.

 

I mention this because as many years as a MOT tester - the number one failure was handbrake, and in almost all cases owners wrongly tightening the handbrake cable(s) in the false belief this would overcome their problem.

You would be amazed to how much the foot pedal improves too when adjusting the rear shoes correctly.

[2ndskoda]

Hi Spartacus68

glad you made some progress with the handbrake problem - I note that you " Cleaned the drums with methylated spirit, and then lightly cleaned the shoes". I assume you mean the swept inner area of the drums?

Without being a smartass, or trying to be critical of your actions - next time use emery cloth to slightly rough up the swept surface - FAR more effective, using methylated spirit achieves nothing, unless you were degreasing brand new drums that sometimes have a wax type coating for corrosion protection.

[spartacus68]

Yes Tech1e, braking has definitely improved, although to be fair I've got new vented discs and pads up front which have bedded in. Feels safer and more responsive.

2ndskoda - cleaned the drum liner only to remove brake dust. Take your point about lightly sanding the shoes though to remove any surface glaze. Good tip.

[hutchysrs50]

A chap in the classifieds is selling a whole rear beam from a VRS.

Do you happen to know if the mk1 rear axel is a straight fit?

Can get plenty from 2004'ish ibizas / Fabias but not sure it will fit my 2012 Fabia?

Thanks

[Tech1e]

MK1 and MK2 aren't interchangeable.

[hutchysrs50]

Okey dokey, guess I'll keep an eye out for a mk2 rear axel with discs then unless people have a conversation kit.

[Tech1e]

The drum rear axle can't be converted as it doesn't have caliper mounts.

[hutchysrs50]

Excellent as always, thanks for the heads up

[Guest]

I just got my rear drums, shoes, new springs and cylinders replaced by a garage. They literally have been on for 1 day, but noticed a slight squeak off them when braking. Is this because they are new and will take a few hundred miles to wear in?