Sump Drain Helicoil

[Normski55]

Hi all, took my Octavia in for an oil and filter change today. Shock horror, the fitter said you better come and look at this. The sump plug was loose and he showed me that he could not tighten it up so was unable to change the oil. He said the threads had gone and gave me the contact details of a local garage who he said would helicoil the sup for £45 ish. Has anyone had this done and does it work? i.e. is the sump casting thick enough to be drilled out to take the helicoil? Thing is, the thread must have been stripped at the last oil change, 10k miles ago. I wonder what's holding the sump plug in?

[Guest]

Seen it done on many cars and works fine. Joys of having ham fisted people tightening thing up too much. There is a torque setting for the sump plug can't remember what it is off the top of my head though.

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[Zukabak]

It'll definitely work, as the sump on mine is helicoiled.. be aware though, it's not really a permanent fix.

Normally, the helicoil wouldn't budge at all as it's much harder than the surrounding the aluminium of the sump.. but after two oil changes, mine's started to weep.. so I used it as an excuse to get a new sump (only about £40 when GSF/Euro have a sale on) and swap out the pickup pipe. 

[Tech1e]

Seen it done on many cars and works fine. Joys of having ham fisted people tightening thing up too much. There is a torque setting for the sump plug can't remember what it is off the top of my head though.

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30 Nm and install a new plug.

[Tech1e]

It'll definitely work, as the sump on mine is helicoiled.. be aware though, it's not really a permanent fix.

Normally, the helicoil wouldn't budge at all as it's much harder than the surrounding the aluminium of the sump.. but after two oil changes, mine's started to weep.. so I used it as an excuse to get a new sump (only about £40 when GSF/Euro have a sale on) and swap out the pickup pipe.

ECP always have a discount code about somewhere. However if you have time stick something in your basket but don't check out. Within a few hours you will get an email with a discount code.

[Martin191]

Get in touch with tierod69 on ebay, they sorted me a new sump for £30-40 delivered the next day. 

 

It'll be a much better fix than heli coiling it.

[Normski55]

Hey guys, thanks for all your advice, some good comments there. I didn't realize a replacement sump could be picked up at that price, I will definitely check it out. Thanks again, Normski.

[StevesTruck]

Bear in mind you'll need to seal the new sump's mating surface to the bottom end. Personally, mine's on with silicon (yeah, bathroom sealant, sounds worse than it is) and it's not dripped in 30-odd k. If you're paying somone, I don't think access is bad on the 1.6, so labour would probably be about the same as for getting it coiled, and you can get them to clean the pickup out while the sump's off. 

[cheshire_cat]

Get in touch with tierod69 on ebay, they sorted me a new sump for £30-40 delivered the next day. 

 

It'll be a much better fix than heli coiling it.

my tame ex R-R  tech says a properly done helicoil is stronger than the original------for what it's worth

[Normski55]

Hello again fellas, I got in touch with the helicoil guy today and he proposes to drill the sump out and fit the helicoil without removing the sump pan from the car. I wonder how much metal swarf gets into the engine? So, I've looked on e bay and I can get an aftermarket sump and gaskets for about £35 ish. However, when I looked at removing the sump pan there are two of the bolts in a deep recess and at a weird angle next to the clutch/gearbox casing. Any ideas how I get these out? Can you get a small diameter 10mm socket on the end of an extension in there. The bolts do have a 5mm hexagon socket recess but will a T bar of 5mm be able to provide enough torque to turn the bolt? Any advise appreciated.

[kentphil1]

5 mm ball end hex key is your friend there.

[Normski55]

Thanks for the advice about the 5mm ball end hex key. When I replace the sump tray is it better to use a gasket or sealant? If sealant, which is preferred? Gaining confidence that I can do this now but I don't have a pit, can it be done using ramps?

[SuperbTWM]

Thanks for the advice about the 5mm ball end hex key. When I replace the sump tray is it better to use a gasket or sealant? If sealant, which is preferred? Gaining confidence that I can do this now but I don't have a pit, can it be done using ramps?

 

I got some sealant from the dealers last time I changed a sump.

[StevesTruck]

Thanks for the advice about the 5mm ball end hex key. When I replace the sump tray is it better to use a gasket or sealant? If sealant, which is preferred? Gaining confidence that I can do this now but I don't have a pit, can it be done using ramps?

 

Pretty sure all VAG sump gaskets have been superseded by a tube of goo if try and order one from the dealers.

 

Like I say, good quality silicon sealant's fine in my experience. I thought I was getting bull****ted when I got told to use it, but it's been fine.

[kentphil1]

If you use sealant, just use it in a sensible quantity, don't smack it on like it's going out of fashion, as it will spew out inside the sump as it is squashed. It will then harden and break off in little lumps and block your strainer again.

 

There are a couple of build threads on here that have had new sumps with good pictures to guide on what is sufficient, I also seem to remember a Bowders how to somewhere, I'll post it if I find it.

 

I used a loctite sealer that I purchased in Halfords, I'll have a look tomorrow to find its full number.

[kentphil1]

OK finding the sealer was easy as I kept the invoice on the pc, it was this - http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/head-gasket-exhaust-repairs/loctite-si-5980-flange-sealant - just remember to let it cure as it says in the instructions before you use the car to avoid any annoying leaks.

 

This is the how to -http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/191103-how-to-vrs-pick-up-pipesuction-pipe-replacement/ , it is for the sump strainer, which if you are dropping the sump, it is only about £10 for the strainer and seal, takes about 3 minutes extra to do and is so worth doing if the car has a fair mileage on it.

[Normski55]

Thanks again fella's for all your advice, these are the things that really help. I will have a good look at the replacement thread. I need to order the parts and then carry out the switch over which I can only do at the weekends but I figure if I take my time, don't rush and think things through I should be OK. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers, Normski

[kentphil1]

Take your time, and take care with the awkward transmission side sump bolts that you don't cross thread them putting them back in and you should be good to go.

[Normski55]

Hi folks, just to update you all. I successfully fitted the new sump tray this morning as the weather was fairly decent (no garage). The dodgy sump plug would not some out. I tried removing it with a socket but it was just spinning, I even tried using mole grips to turn and pull at the same time, but still no good. So I had to drain the oil by removing the oil level sensor. This was no big deal as it had to come off anyway to transfer to the new sump. Got all the bolts out OK, ball end hex key at the gearbox interface. The longest job was getting the old gasket sealant off and cleaning the face on the block. Applied new sealant and in it went.

 

I bought the replacement sump from a company called Energized Customs on e bay. It was only £22.00 delivered. Anyway it seams to be a quality part and it fitted perfectly which you don't always get with a pattern part so I'm well pleased. Went for a run out and no oil leaks (always a bonus) so job done.

 

Thanks again for all your help. I have taken a photo but can't seem to upload it, just not computer savvy enough.

 

Normski

[Liverpool-Lad]

Nice work...£22!