Oil & Fuel Filter change 2012 2l TDi CR E189

[voxmagna]

As  regular service operation for a 2l Tdi engine you wouldn't expect this to be difficult. MY12 Yeti has the CFHC (E189) common rail engine.

 

I lift the hood and expect to see the oil filter straight in front of me like other VAGs but I see nothing!  I pull off the top plastic engine cover and still see nothing obvious. After some research I discover the filter  housing is underneath a solenoid. You remove one torx screw and lift the solenoid over to the right and just below is the black plastic filter can cover with a 32mm Hex head. You can start undoing it but it still won't lift through. You have to unclip two wiring loom clips and move the loom to the right to create sufficient space to lift the filter cover out.

 

II'd pre-ordered a replacement Bosch oil filter in advance. The old oil filter was just like a cylindrical sleeve with the centre spigot part of the cap and not part of the filter as on the replacement. There are TWO versions of the Bosch filter used on my Yeti, don't rely on Registration for online ordering use your VIN.  Fit a new O ring on the cover and replace. The tightening torque varies between 20-25 Nm. Mine was 25Nm stamped on the black cover.

 

Replacing the fuel filter should be easy, I've done it before on other VAGs. The shop manual tells you to remove the filter carrier (2 bolts). You don't need to do that. Remove all the torx screws (5) on the top cover and lever up using a screwdriver in a slot provided around the edge. It may be stiff due to the O ring seal binding. With the cover loose  and folded back a little on the hoses, I allow as much diesel fuel as possible to drain from the filter back into the can, then fit the new filter and O ring. The shop manual refers to using diagnostics to operate the pump and purge out air. I've never had to do this yet. Put it all back together crank and idle for a few minutes.

 

 

Edited 26 June, 2016 by voxmagna

[FlintstoneR1]

Agreed on every point! :clap:   Is exactly the same on my 2010 CR 2.0 / TDi / 110 / EA189 Yeti.  

 

The 2 different types of filter foxed me a little the first time. Had to re-order a filter ostensibly for a 1.6 diesel engine instead of the "2-litre". (Traced by cross-referencing the old filter's type code to different engines). I suspect which engines got which design of filter housing was down to whatever was available on the line on the day? My car's engine like yours has the long, plastic centre spigot built into the cap, not a fresh spigot every time built into the filter cartridge. Seems to make the new filters a touch cheaper this way round too! The filters themselves seem identical. Mann, Bosch and Crosland filters come with a pair of new O-rings for the spigot. One about 15mm dia. The other even smaller, for the lowermost part of the spigot. In addition to the much greater dia. cap seal O-ring.

 

From memory, the Bosch filters also include a new sump plug washer, which the others don't. (Useful if you are draining the oil conventionally. Or if using something like a "Pela" vacuum oil extractor, then you won't be bothered, as you won't be disturbing the sump plug anyway).

 

More recently, Euro Car Parts now seem to be able to send me the correct filter each time, when ordered via the car's registration number through the ECP web site.   

 

After 7 filter changes* now on "our" Yeti, I believe I've mastered the knack of angling the old filter out of the housing without having to mess with the surrounding pipework and wiring loom.  But that does require laying out plenty of newspaper / kitchen towel / rags (whichever is to hand), beforehand to catch the inevitable dribbles. Even after leaving time for filter to drain before trying to remove it.  Still, compared to the Ren-Oh Grand Scenic diesel that our Yeti replaced, removing the oil filter is a doddle. I just wish it was as easy as my BMW.

 

* Why so many changes? I'm old fashioned enough to choose to do oil and filter replacement every 9000 miles, even when using a VW507 spec oil like Castrol Edge 5w30. I want my engine (and turbo!) to last. Intermediate oil changes are the cheapest way I know to help that ambition along.

 

Echo your comments on the fuel filter swap. I have been known to take off the outlet pipe from the cap to help purge any air trapped during re-assembly. But have experienced no problems even without that step.

 

Aside - don't you just love the smell of new filters, when fresh out of the box?  Or am I just weird?  Or hooked on something that is going to harm me one day?

Edited 27 June, 2016 by FlintstoneR1

[baldeagle7470]

Never heard of a filter fetish before,will have to have a better sniff next time I change one haha.

Like you I still persist in an oil and filter change every year,don't want to start a thread on the pro's and cons,just what I have always done and guess I will never change now!!

[Valleyboy44]

Judy resurrecting this post if I may... 

 

Purchased all the filters, but I'm still a little freaked by the fuel filter... (never done it before - serviced the rest many times) 

 

I've gone through it in my mind... Anything I've missed... 

 

1- Put plenty of rags around filter. 

2- Loosen and remove the 5/6 hex bolts. 

3- Use flat head to gently lift up fuel filter 'lid'. (Angle out of the way)

4- Gently lift filter out at an angle and drain, drain, drain the fuel. 

5- Remove old filter. 

6- Insert new filter slowly so it absorbs the fuel left in filter sump. 

7- Top up the filter housing with fuel.

8- Replace fuel filter lid (and new o ring?) 

9- Replace all hex bolts, clean up. 

10- PARANOIA TIME!.... 

 

Turn ignition on, wait for fuel pump sound, ignition off repeat 3/4 times? 

 

Cross fingers, hope car starts go for spin round the block!

(have RAC on speed dial + innocent have no idea what's happened excuse ready) 

 

*I might do the service on the wife's golf first (same engine) 

[voxmagna]

After replacing the fuel filter or disconnecting unions on the Tdi there's always the possibility of getting an air lock and no start. Nothing to worry about: You turn the key and if you are lucky, 50% of times the engine will start, sometimes with a short splutter. To be 100% certain of a first start I now partially crack open the union nuts on each fuel injector. Then turn the starter over for a second or two and until some fuel leaks from all 4 unions. Re tighten the union nuts and you should get a first time start.