Where is MAP sensor?

[crni]

Hello

 

I'm owner of Škoda Octavia Combi RS 2007 2.0 TDI 125/170 BMN.

 

I must check MAP sensor, because my car won't accelerate from 0 to 1500-2000. But explodes from 2000.

I was looking on internet but couldn't find any picture or description?

 

Thanks for any instruction, link or picture....

 

Best Regards,

Dejan(Slovenia)

[roaddetective]

I think you mean MAF sensor. Mass Air Flow. You will find it fixed onto the large plastic air pipe between the air filter and the throttle body. If you look it up on the internet putting in MAF, not MAP, you should find all the details you need. It explains how to clean it, usually with spray electrical cleaner. Be careful not to touch the element as it is fragile and wait for it to dry before putting it back in again. It is usually fixed onto the air pipe with 2 screws and has wires plugged into it.

[sniper29a]

MAP is usually around intercooler.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/125279-map-sensor-location/

 

What you describe looks like sticky vanes or actuator rusted or vacuum system leaks...check it out

[crni]

Hello

 

Thanks for answers. Today i'm going to pick up my car from mechanic and hope that MAP caused this problems with acceleration.

 

I will report.

[crni]

Hello

 

The problem is NOT solved. The MAP sensor changed and it still doesn't accelerate beetwen 0 to 1500-2000. Now they will check  all yours ideas.

 

Thanks

 

[trundlenut]

Are there any fault codes?

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

[crni]

No fault codes. Today i drove the car to another mechanic. They deal with these kind of unknowen problems. Probably not today but tomorow i should get response from them.

[sniper29a]

MAP is rarely a problem.

 

my guess is MAF. There needs to be certain flow rates at idle according to ETKA. Diagnostic rarely gives a fault code

 

you can try standard sticky vanes/rusted actuator/leaking vacuum hoses VW test...drive on straight road on third gear. Let the engine drop to around 1500revs...then floor it (of course all at operating temperatures). turbo must start to kick in at around 1850 up to 2500 revs

[sniper29a]

I've read your description once again and you seems to create problem yourself ;-)

 

No Skoda kicks in under 2200revs ;-) especially factory calibrated ECU.

 

vRS factory turbo is GT17 and it has got max boost at 2500rpm. 1850rpm is bottom limit where turbo starts to kick in. If you really wanna "kick in" drive, you have to forget about family style driving.

 

BMM/BKD/BMN engines need to push it hard up to 3000> revs so that you have always at least 2500revs when you have up-shifted  and clutch is engaged. Especially, in mountains. before I did recalibrate my ECU, my car was lazy...calibrated/tuned for economy. I had to rev it up to 3500 to get it running.

 

Don't forget that at 1800-2000revs there is just 80HP. 2500revs = 120HP and so on. 4000rpm = 170HP on vRS. Check out dyno graph . Many people are confused and don't know how to use engine power optimally. If you check out dyno graph, your shifting should be made at certain revs so that you have minimum revs where two curves torque/power crosses. vRS is around 2200-2500 (never saw dyno graph)

[sniper29a]

learn how to utilize your engine output properly

[crni]

Very nice description. Will read few times and print it for mechanic. But my problem is that when i stop at red light and want to "normal" start. Car start so slow that bikers are faster then me sometimes it even wants to turn off. I dare not to stop on small hill, while it needs 20 sec to go few meters. Or if i have it in 2 nd gear and go in roundabout and don't have enought revs i have to shift down and put gas and then shift back in 2nd. 

I will ask for may dyno graph and put it on.

Thanks

[crni]

Hello 

 

Car is repaired. It was sensor for temp "on" or "before" turbine. Now car goes like rocket again. But still i have to read and learn: learn how to utilize your engine output properly

 

Thanks for advices.

[sniper29a]

before turbine is EGT sensor for exhaust temps. Unless, you have some really new car. It usually doesn't reduce power output of engine. But it might be some sort of failsafe. If sensor gone > limp mode