Wiring an Aftermarket Remote Kit for Central Locking

[mollusc]

All,

 

Firstly an apology if this has been covered succinctly somewhere else, but I'm damned I could find the information I needed and my investigations lead to be being locked in the car for an hour at one point! I'm hoping this might save someone else from the same interesting predicament.

 

I got a cheapy Remote Kit with two HAA style transponder keys from eBay. The 'manual' I got (the one I've found photographed a few times on here) was horribly ambiguous.

 

I now understand that the Octy uses a "multiplex" system that means it doesn't need two wires to activate the central locking - It just uses one, and it locks or unlocks dependent on the signal on that wire.

 

I used the GREY/YELLOW wire inside the driver's door as the central locking entry point, although I put the control unit inside the dash.

 

At this point I'm only talking about the remote receiver box, not the car wiring:

 

For the purposes of fitting to the car, the remote receiver box seems to be three remote controlled switches (i.e. relays); one for locking, one for unlocking and one for the boot release (which I'll be ignoring). Pressing the lock button on the remote triggers a relay to temporarily disconnect the white wire from the orange wire and connect it instead to the yellow wire. Pressing the UNlock button on the remote triggers a relay to temporarily disconnect the white/black wire from the orange/black wire and connect it instead to the yellow/black wire.

 

It's very flexible but a bit confusing when there are 6 wires and only one of them actually does any triggering. I'm aiming to provide the correct signal on each of the yellow wires (i.e. yellow and yellow/black) at all times so that, when buttons are pressed, the correct signal passes from that yellow wire into the corresponding white wire. We also need to make sure the orange wires are disconnected from anything so that - without any buttons being pressed - the white wires are effectively connected to nothing (i.e. open circuit). Lastly, because we can't lock and unlock the car at the same time we can connect the white wires together so that either the correct lock or unlock signal ends up on one wire.

 

The lock signal for the YELLOW wire is a direct earth connection, and the UNlock signal for the YELLOW/BLACK wire is a connection to earth via a 180 Ohm resistor (well, that's what worked for me after trial and error). To put it another way, I connected the YELLOW wire to the BLACK wire, and then the YELLOW/BLACK wire to the BLACK wire this time via the resistor.

The WHITE wires were joined and that made my Central Locking signal.

(I actually opened the box and made the links linked the solder points of the connector with little jumper wires and the resistor to make it a bit neater)

 

So, I ended up with a black wire that needed to be connected to the chassis; a red wire that needed volts and a white wire that needed connecting to the GREY/WHITE wire in the CAR. I cut everything else off.

 

Two things -

 

1 I don't seem to be able to unlock the whole car with the remote - just the drivers door. A second press doesn't do anything.

 

2 I'd stupidly assumed that the non-remote key wasn't chipped, but alas they are. Getting the new keys cut was easy but I now need to get hold of chips for your new keys (or transfer them from existing keys) in order to be able to start the car properly. I've just been quoted 90 quid to do this. Gutted.

 

I hope this helps someone who was in my position. As I say the information is probably out there but I really couldn't find it.

[chris777]

hi did you get working ok regards chris