starting issue. help please.

[ty1986]

I'm having a starting issue with my fabia 1.4 8v, it bump starts not tried jump leads yet but when I try to start it by the key it gets a click then all the dash lights go out and come on again after I let key go. I'm giving the battery a trickle charge at the moment whilst at work. Also when I have bump started it there's no red battery light illuminating so I guess alternator is charging the battery. Only had the car a week, it was sat for a couple of months before I brought it. I even put my vw golf battery on it and it started once but not very easy I must say. The battery from the golf not been used for 2/3weeks either. Could it a stiff/seizing starter motor.

[TMB]

Have you tried removing and cleaning the battery earth lead at the strut tower? It sounds like a possible earthing issue to me.

 

[ty1986]

Nope not yet. Car was starting for first 5/6 days, will have a look at this in a bit

[TMB]

Nope not yet. Car was starting for first 5/6 days, will have a look at this in a bit

 

Yeah it's worth checking because it's a common issue. At least you will rule it out.

[sepulchrave]

Sounds like the battery may be marginal, measure the voltage otherwise we're all guessing.

[ty1986]

After bump starting it for the way home the red battery light came on and beeped and went straight off, Got on dual carriageway near home and when revs got to 4k battery light came on then stayed on with that got abs light, esp light, airbag light and power steering wheel light came on, few of them went off when I turn the fan off.

[sepulchrave]

Alternator is failing and battery is therefore flat.

[ty1986]

Got 12.40v with ignition off, then turn ignition on and it goes to 11.10v. But can't start car as when turn key there is nothing goes down to about 3v when key held in

Edited 21 July, 2016 by ty1986

[sepulchrave]

No good, battery is dead, charge it overnight then read voltage with engine running.

[ty1986]

Just gave the alternator bracket and connections a good sand down as thought it won't hurt.

So when I put key in ignition ON position all dash lights come on then go off except EPC, when turn fan on the abs light comes on along with the asr light when turn fan off they go off. Gonna get a set of jump leads in a bit then try jump it off the mrs' car.

Edited 21 July, 2016 by ty1986

[sepulchrave]

I think you may need a new battery if the alternator tests ok.

[ty1986]

Ok thanks, my uncle just popped over with a old battery off a car his mate scrapped and it started 1st time. All dash light went out even put all the the radio on, fan on, headlights, with full beam, fog lights and interior lights on. And none of the abs or asp lights came on either. Put a tester on the battery and its showing 12.4 when car is running and 12v when ignition off. Dunno how long he had the battery standing for so guessing that why it reading a bit low

[w.t100]

You have a charging problem..

[sepulchrave]

12.4 is mush too low while running.

[ty1986]

Just a quick one. How do I test alternator with the multimeter. It will not let upload a pic of my multimeter thou

[sepulchrave]

Just a quick one. How do I test alternator with the multimeter. It will not let upload a pic of my multimeter thou

 

You just tested it, 12.4V while running.

[ty1986]

Ok so it was fine last night after leaving it running for 5/10 mins, after about 1mile on way to work the abs and ars light followed by power steering cutting out and light on too.

So are these due to battery low again and reckon it could be alternator not charging enough because 12.4v is tested whilst running I researched it should be 13.8 to 14.8v

[Alexandru]

Have you tried using a different voltmeter or replacing it's battery? Can you trust it's readings ? Also, have you cleaned the terminals before checking the voltage ?

 

Ok..before you replace anything, try this:

 

1. When reading that 12.4V with the engine running, try turning on your headlights (full beam) and the fan blower at full speed. Check if that figure changes. Try keeping it at 2500rpms for a while. At idle, it doesn't deliver too much.

2. My mpi alternator output never exceeded 13.5V. It's how it works as I've been reading. The voltage regulator is part of the alternator, not controlled by the ECU. It's an old car.

3. Check the belt (it might be slipping or too loose). Check for cracks/cuts.

4. Check the tensioner for the auxiliary belt. If the bearing is shot, it's not good.

5. Check the alternator bearings. If those are on their way out (seizing), might cause all the trouble. Those are easy and cheap to replace.

Edited 22 July, 2016 by Alexandru

[ty1986]

Thanks, I tried 3 different batteries on it and all have slight different volts when tested, but with all the same outcome of dying within a couple of miles. I did put lights and and fan on full last night but can't remember the figures as been testing and testing and so many numbers about.

Was gonna say about the voltage regulator on alternator could this be faulty.

Got a slight occasional water leak from water pump behind the pulley I think it's coming from, Got new water pump on order and aux belt too as there a few little cracks but it's still tight. Will test the tensioner tonight when home from work.

[Alexandru]

Voltage regulator, diodes, brushes and the bearings...and then you may call it as being refurbished but, if you have the option, try measuring the voltage output at the alternator terminals. If there is a difference between that reading and the one at the battery, there is a faulty connection in-between.

Edited 22 July, 2016 by Alexandru

[ty1986]

Have you got a pic to show where to put the tester or a little explanation like where to put the red and black tester prongs. I'm no mechanic but have basic knowledge with stuff, as I like to try fix things myself.

[sepulchrave]

Dude, measuring across the battery is fine, your alternator is faulty, it isn't providing enough voltage to charge the battery. You've tried three different batteries and they all went flat within a few minutes,

Get a secondhand alternator if you're short of money but you must replace it, it's not working properly, also charge those batteries using a charger otherwise they'll be permanently damaged and you'll have to buy a new battery as well.

[ty1986]

Made it home on a battery charged at work 7.5miles. Soon as got home multimeter on it and was at 10.2v

now it is at 8.2v rev to 2.5k and it goes to 8.5v but it's dropping slightly every time was testing on the battery terminals and on the alternator was getting same readings within .1or2 as battery is getting flatter. So can't see any connection problems must be a worn out alternator. Got 121k on clock full service history till 109k. Just checked thrall receipts that came with no alternator change.

[poiuytre111]

I am surprised that nobody has so far suggested checking the common failure point wire from alternator that runs under the power steering pump - Wino has all the pictures. The red light on dash going out is not a reliable proof that the alternator is being given the required current to start producing a charge current.

[sepulchrave]

I have no more to add, I've given you my best advice already.