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False coolant overheating warnings


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^ Yeah, but it'll do that by passing a fixed current down the wiring and looking at the resulting voltage, or a fixed voltage and measure the current, an extraneous voltage will stuff this up.

 

That is true, I guess the the PCM converts the thermistor reading into a signed byte (-128 to +127) for the purpose of communicating its value across the data bus so any fault must be in the loom between the thermistor and the PCM.

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On a Vauxhall that the missus had for a while, the temp sensor wiring ran down a bit of trunking in a bundle perpendicular to injector wiring, touching.  The buggers chafed through to one another and caused merry hell.  That took a bit of finding. :thumbdown:

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Thanks for all the posts but unfortunately I'm no closer to finding a solution. I'm afraid the real techie stuff goes way over my head!

I don't know if this has any relevance to my original problem but since cooler weather has arrived, we've discovered that the heater doesn't heat!!

Could the two things be linked?

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Thanks for all the posts but unfortunately I'm no closer to finding a solution. I'm afraid the real techie stuff goes way over my head!

I don't know if this has any relevance to my original problem but since cooler weather has arrived, we've discovered that the heater doesn't heat!!

Could the two things be linked?

 

No heat means your heater flap motor is probably stuck. Try cycling it between full hot and full cold periodically whilst driving. No it's not related to your other problem.

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Having glanced at a current flow diagram that I believe is appropriate for this car (BME engine code?), I suggest checking the blue wire from pin 1 of the two-way connection to the coolant temperature sender (nearside of engine, grey connector facing battery) as far as you can in the direction of the engine ECU, where it connects to pin 74. I can only imagine that this is shorting to another wire somewhere along the way, intermittently. Also, while you're looking, check that the coolant temperature sender looks shiny and new (i.e. check that it really has been replaced).

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Picking up on posts since last Thursday:-

 

1) The prongs are inaccessible on that header tank as otherwise stated. There are 2 different models of header though.

2) If the heater doesn't work, get the engine hot, switch the heater on, and check that the heater hoses get hot and hard (ooh er mussis ;) ). If neither does, I'd suspect an air lock in the heater. Otherwise, proceed with "heaterobics" exercising the heat and air direction controls regularly for about 10 minutes.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Following a "non starting" situation this week, further investigation by a Skoda garage has revealed that I have a very sick engine.

So sick that it needs replacing!!

Any idea where I can obtain a "short" engine? (Code BME)

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Following a "non starting" situation this week, further investigation by a Skoda garage has revealed that I have a very sick engine.

So sick that it needs replacing!!

Any idea where I can obtain a "short" engine? (Code BME)

 

Better off just buying a guaranteed complete low mileage secondhand engine, cheaper labour as well.

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