Yeti start/stop system.

[Michael G]

Great pics Col 

 

In our first Yeti I had a Garmin hard-wired in (but not permanently) as per the pics from post #71 here:

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/157362-modifications-on-our-yeti-12-tsi/page-3#entry2793341

 

Meant that once the satnav was clipped into  its cradle, it was always fully charged. Several here have done something similar for their dashcams.

 

In the new car I'd every intention to go for the built-in satnav option - but once I'd seen my phone and Android Auto, I went for Smartlink instead.

 

Gives me more functionality than a standalone satnav, and saved £600  :clap:

[ernieb]

+1, for Android Auto, good navigation functionality and the voice search works really well. (It's good to be able to search for the weather whilst en-route) I also like the life like navigation speech rather than the Amundsen digitised version.

[Sad555]

You don't live at no 39 by any chance.

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

Many thanks Mike for your kind words and supplying the link. I'm always very wary about doing anything to our cars which are on warranty and I use the 12v sockets for any power supply I need such as the dash cam and the SatNav. I bought a "splitter" from eBay allowing both the SatNav and camera to be plugged in together; each time I go out in the Yeti I simply push the plug home into the 12v socket; this immediately switches on both SatNav and dash cam; after each journey it's not a problem just to pull the plug; the camera knocks itself off after about ten seconds and I knock the SatNav off by touching its screen. The Yeti sleeps on our driveway so each night I remove both the SatNav and dash cam to deter low life breaking in to steal them. The cable for the dash cam is tucked neatly into the bottom edge of the tunnel; under the edge of the passenger carpet and run up the screen pillar and along the top of the screen again tucking it in neatly; the dash cam resides just to the left of the rear view mirror. The cable for the SatNav crosses the top of the tunnel then then neatly tucked into the lower edge of the tunnel; then simply hangs from the SatNav; both cables are routed so that they don't interfere with driving in any way; possibly not the proper way to hook them up but it works for me. The SatNav is usually fully charged because I always run it connected to the 12V socket. I'll try to remember to take some pictures and post them.

 

Thanks both Mike and ernieb but I haven't a clue as to android auto or smartlink; my mobile phone cost a fiver new about six years ago and I still don't know how to use texts or answer any incoming calls; I've just no interest in such things; I'm only just coming out of steam power which I'm more familiar with. 

 

Thanks for asking Sad555, no Bron and I live at No37 but No39 looks a lot better.  Bron and I always find it most strange whilst trying to locate an address whilst out in the car to find whole streets of houses don't have house numbers on display; what are they all trying to hide; it drives us mad to be directed to a house by the SatNav only to find the house is trying to hide. Years ago I cut 18" tall numbers from pure white Perspex and attached these to our bungalow wall declaring to the world this is No39. One mischief night some low life stole one of the numbers so I removed the other number and gave it some thought. I then made an illuminated house number using one of Maplin's electronic kits giving dusk to dawn automatic switching; this was my first ever venture into electronics and the switch worked for many years until it finally expired; I then bought a big sheet of clear Perspex and cut out big self adhesive numbers; the back of the Perspex is painted black; the intention was to edge light the numbers with strip LED's; unfortunately I couldn't polish the Perspex edges well enough to get the edge lighting to work correctly; what's needed is an oxy/acetylene flame to run around the edges this then gives a perfect finish; anyway I rigged up two LED strips one top one bottom connecting these to the new dusk/dawn switch; now that the bungalow has received an extensive makeover it's time I revisited these numbers for a better design. Neighbours tell me the local police helicopter uses our numbers at night for global positioning.   Your Sad555 makes me think you are an upset electronic timer chip? 

 

Time I got cracking again in the garage before another day slips quietly by.

 

Kind regards, Col.

[Michael G]

...

no Bron and I live at No37 but No39 looks a lot better....

 

Ha ha. Touché.

 

I understand the point about warranties. It's why I used a piggy back fuse. Meant that when we took the car in for PX against Yeti #2 I could revert back to OEM. Two minute job.

 

I didn't want cradles etc in the new car so went for Smartlink. It uses Android Auto to handover the phone display to the car screen. We mainly use it for nav via Google Maps. Free, always up to date, and gives real time traffic.

 

All very straightforward but as you say, if you're not interested in this stuff, it will seem a puzzle. Some of the stuff you talk about I wouldn't have the first idea.

 

Anyhoo, back to front door painting duties. I've had all summer and wait till breezy October arrives.

 

Always jobs to do, when there's so much interesting stuff to discuss on t'internet 

[ernieb]

Ha ha. Touché.

 

 

.......We mainly use it for nav via Google Maps. Free, always up to date, and gives real time traffic. 

Do you download a selection of the map to your phone? I download a big section of the UK and it's about 1Gb but then the app uses this data rather than your monthly allowance. The downloaded data has to be updated, over WiFi, once a month.

[Michael G]

Do you download a selection of the map to your phone? I download a big section of the UK and it's about 1Gb but then the app uses this data rather than your monthly allowance. The downloaded data has to be updated, over WiFi, once a month.

 

Occasionally.

 

For the car, via Android Auto, I tried it once, and had a bit of a juggle about trying to get it to use it. I did get it going, but can't remember now how I did it. And I'm not absolutely clear which it was using, to be honest.

 

If I turn mobile data off on the phone, Android Auto says it can't connect. And none of the AA help pages I've looked at explain how to use it with maps in offline mode. 

 

That said, in the car, it's not so much an issue these days, so I'm not that bothered anymore.

 

My tariff only has a 2Gb monthly limit, including roaming. Many tariffs now have bigger limits and have anticipated the end of roaming so it just isn't the issue it once was.

 

Driving down to Italy in June, we used live Maps and AA all the way. Had I had to pay for it, it would have been about £35 from memory. That's a lot -  but a lot of journeys too, for the cost of a built in satnav or top of the range standalone unit. And no update issues further down the line.

 

It may well be different for those streaming Netflix etc where there maybe not a lot left for live Maps. But I don't do that, so 2Gb is plenty for me.

[ernieb]

I think that AA needs a connection to update routes due to traffic and to allow OK Google to work in searching for your destination. I also think, by default, it uses the downloaded map area.

I'm hoping that the music side of the app will be updated, I believe it will be soon, to allow easier selection of music albums. Whilst I only have a couple of hundred albums it would be nice to be able to select via the cover art work. I would also like to be able to use the steering wheel 'voice' button to control the AA voice search.

Sorry, way off the OP, I'll stop now.....

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

 

Ha ha. Touché.

 

I understand the point about warranties. It's why I used a piggy back fuse. Meant that when we took the car in for PX against Yeti #2 I could revert back to OEM. Two minute job.

 

I didn't want cradles etc in the new car so went for Smartlink. It uses Android Auto to handover the phone display to the car screen. We mainly use it for nav via Google Maps. Free, always up to date, and gives real time traffic.

 

All very straightforward but as you say, if you're not interested in this stuff, it will seem a puzzle. Some of the stuff you talk about I wouldn't have the first idea.

 

Anyhoo, back to front door painting duties. I've had all summer and wait till breezy October arrives.

 

Always jobs to do, when there's so much interesting stuff to discuss on t'internet 

 

 

Perhaps I'll have a bit more time Mike once winter rolls in to look at some of these modern electronic gizzmos; but in the meantime I can live without them. Typical isn't it to put off painting until the weather is on the turn but I've been painting for what seems like forever. Please have a look at Benjamin Moore (American and expensive) paint range which is now available here in the UK and it's this paint I'm now using; it's brilliant and being water based dries quickly before the rain hits it.

 

Absolutely no problem with me ernieb to wander off topic; it's amazing the useful information and suggestions that crop up; I'm a member of a top vintage radio forum where moderators behave like traffic wardens on speed even picking up on grammar and spelling; as long as the mods are happy on Briskoda to let topics drift I'm happy to encourage discussion. How strange I only posted regarding the initial problems I was having with the stop/start but suddenly I'm spending more time on Briskoda than my usual Ultimatehandyman forum.  Thanks guys for all your replies.

 

Kind regards, Col.

[Michael G]

... Please have a look at Benjamin Moore (American and expensive) paint range which is now available here in the UK and it's this paint I'm now using; it's brilliant and being water based dries quickly before the rain hits it.

 

....

 

Haven't heard of that one, but I have been amazed at Farrow & Ball's water based undercoat. Dries in about 2 hours, and the gloss (tomorrow's job) is the same, but touted to last 6 years.

 

We'll see (I'm always optimistic. Every Sunday night I'd iron 5 shirts).

 

Last time I wander off on a tangent. Promise.

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

Although our Yeti really did catch me out I do know a little about electronics and vintage radio/TV restoration; I used to wind my own transformers/tuning coils etc and have hand wound a huge transformer which supplies 3 phase 415V into our garage the lot costing just under £120 a few years ago; I also had a cosy vintage radio/TV shack where I did my restorations many of which are either published or on forums; a couple of pictures below show what I used to get up to and the radio shack I did so much work in; on the bench is a 1957 Ekco T311 combined TV/radio which a skip would have rejected when I first brought it home but now it's fully restored and working; these days I no longer do anything with radio or TV concentrating more on wood/metalwork; I have four lathes amongst my kit two engineering and two woodturning; I've completely restored my extremely rare Lorch Schmidt engineering lathe and also my Union Graduate wood turning lathe I converted the Graduate to variable speed using a VFD so a bit more electronics to sort out; I'm a quick learner once I lock into something. I do French polishing and veneering and enjoy a good challenge.

 

Text alone on a forum doesn't usually convey what a member is truly like or the skills the member has; I most likely looked like a prize dummy when I started this thread but I do know when something isn't quite right and our Yeti definitely wasn't right when it refused twice to start at traffic lights; I'm now interested to see if the needle on the fuel gauge sticks on full tank again before suddenly dropping to the first big bar when some fuel has been used; for two months this fuel gauge needle used to fall gradually once it started to register; I think it's possibly just a sticking float arm which might right itself in time; it's nothing to panic over because once the needle does drop then it works fine. I'm not a fitter and never will be; I was taught to make things and this training remains with me.

 

Kind regards, Col.

 

http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/retired2000/media/My%20Den.jpg.html

 

http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/retired2000/media/T311%20back%20on%20bench..jpg.html

[Sad555]

Col please keep "off topic" more ,I've really enjoyed reading thro them all with your openness and honesty it really is very interesting you obviously have a lot of patience and the quality of your work and projects is first class so keep the off topic going ,I for one find them a pleasure to read even if I know very little of the workings of a radio.

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

How kind of you Sad555 for your comments and encouragement which are much appreciated. If you like something a bit different perhaps my regular forum "Ultimatehandyman" might be of interest; I'm a very active member of UHM and lots of my projects can be found there under "Retired" my latest project has been to give our detached bungalow exterior a very comprehensive makeover sparing no expense and this is the reason I've been so occupied without time to spare for our new Yeti but yesterday at 5:30pm I finally completed the makeover but now I have a long well established conifer hedge to remove and also the laurels at the top of our rear garden need bringing down to a level where I can talk to them; as winter comes in I'll spend more time indoors and perhaps find more time to familiarize myself with our Yeti; when Bron and I bought this Yeti it wasn't made clear that I needed a degree in electronics in order to drive it? The link below shows an idea I've never previously seen tried; I have a well kitted out workshop for both metal and woodwork; not one to do things the cheap or easy way I really have gone to town on our bungalow; the old wooden cladding has been replaced by 18mm thick exterior grade plywood but I used my big 3hp Makita router to run the profiles imitating cladding but rather than boards the new cladding is solid panels and each panel has been well and truly completely sealed with expensive paint so hopefully it should last quite a while;

 

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/routing-cladding-t84345.html

 

As a apprentice mechanical engineer in the pit 50 years ago I was taught to use my head and my hands and to this day the training is still very much alive in me; I'm not a "fitter" I can actually make things from scratch; any job or project I do I never simply replace like with like; I always go back to basics and do my utmost to improve upon the original wherever possible. Again both as a child and as an apprentice I was taught to be open and honest; this has served me well and I'll never change; my word has always and always will be my bond; if I say I'm going to do something I'll do it; if I make a promise I'll fulfil the promise even if it means I'm well out of pocket; I lead a very simple life with my Bron; we love and support each other in everything we do and we encourage others to try new things. Bron and I have grafted for our enviable lifestyle; we don't need to go on foreign holidays or try to impress anyone we are content and happy.

 

http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/retired2000/media/Samplecoilscloseup.jpg.html

 

http://s1085.photobucket.com/user/retired2000/media/Pairofwinders.jpg.html

 

For those members who enjoy electronics I've added two links above to demonstrate the lengths I go to in order to resolve problems; I'm only limited by my own imagination; when I first started playing around with vintage radio it quickly dawned upon me that I needed three hands whilst replacing chassis components such as resistors and capacitors of which I've replaced many; one hand to hold the component; one hand to hold the soldering iron and one hand to hold the solder. I dreamt up the idea of a miniature wire winder in bed one night; the following day I made the winder and tried it with complete success; now all I needed to do was to snip out the faulty component leaving two 1/4" long tails; the tails ensured the connection locations were not lost which is so very easy to do amongst dozens of similar components; the tails were scraped clean then the new component with its formed coils could simply be dropped into position and soldered securely into place (for any American readers please read Solder as "Sodder" because you appear to have lost the letter "L" for some reason) this meant no more overheating of nearby components. This winder has been copied many times and I've made lots of these winders as gifts. The winder is now well known having been published and is also fully described on the top vintage radio forum.  I know only too well that electronics are prone to faults; what usually isn't a concern with car electronics is "cross talk" this occurs a lot in vintage radio where components not directly connected to each other "talk" to each other throwing up many problems; perhaps this cross talk does occur in car electronics and could be to blame for a number of problems? When I wound my huge 3 phase transformer by hand using the "Unique3phase" instructions I work on my own so not wishing to run down the street with the end of 100 yards of conduit cable I dreamt up the idea of adding the transformer coils using a long wooden shuttle; the inventor of "Unique3phase" Douglas Arndt in America has now also adopted my shuttle idea and kindly credits me with it's invention; my imagination runs riot when faced with a problem. Tomorrow I have our lovely neighbour Carole's small table to sort out; it's one of a nest of three expensive solid oak tables and Carole  is very upset indeed having spilled nail polish in the centre of its top; the nail polish has dropped right through the finish to bare oak and it being a light colour it stands out in the grain; I'll completely strip the top and start over because I can't be bothered trying to redeem it and I'll not bodge it either; I'm never ever bored and I sincerely hope I'm not boring either.

 

Thank you Briskoda moderators for not jumping upon me for wandering off topic but I like to add a bit of background whenever permitted. I did say previously I would like to see a wiring diagram of our Yeti's stop/start system then I would understand better what is actually connected to what?

 

Kind regards, Col.

[Sad555]

Thanks for all the links Col I've become bit of a fan and really admire the effort ,thought and skill you put into your projects,I don't mind having a go at most things but on a much lower level and like to get them over asap ,think it was after spending 5 years ,most weekends when I was at work, doing up an old bungalow whilst living in it and putting in a loft conversion and having two grandchildren arrive which similar to doing up a home takes a lot of time ,effort and money, but now I get pleasure from it all,and as I say it's really great to follow your projects you undertake with such precision and the misunderstandings with the Yeti will easily be managed and soon be a thing of the past.

[Expatman]

 

 

This year one major job has been to totally change the bungalow exterior; the old wooden cladding was removed and I made new cladding from 18mm thick exterior grade plywood using one of my big 3hp routers; the paint is expensive Benjamin Moore (American) Aura exterior satin at £70 per US gallon; I bought over five gallons. I've just the handrail to make and install to the new decking above the garage which is very near being completed; I've just given the decking boards their second coat of Jotun Marine anti slip paint; the framework is industrial steel being 6mm thick which I've cut; drilled and welded etc. I do absolutely everything working on my own from design to complation; I won't go into a lot of detail because this after all is a Skoda forum and not the DIY forum I'm an active member of.

 

You have a touching faith in the 'weatherproofness' of exterior grade plywood!  In my experience over time it is prone to delamination on cut edges no matter who well you try and protect it. I do hope it works for you but I have had to replace with solid treated timber in a boarding situation similar, but smaller, than yours.

 

[Ryeman]

Is marine grade ply an alternative or is too expensive as an option?.

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

Thank you Sad555 for your kind comments. You're well on your way to becoming an Ultimatehandyman having installed a loft conversion; I can well understand you spending time with your grandchildren after all they will have priority. If you wish to resume DIY work may I suggest you join "Ultimatehandyman" where our DIY activities won't be "off topic" 

 

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/index.php

 

You've already got a friend on Ultimatehandyman if you decide to become a member please introduce yourself and say you were recommended to join by Col (Retired) the members are a great bunch to get along with.

 

Thanks Expatman for your concern regarding plywood delaminating which I fully understand; as you rightly say plywood starts to delaminate at cut edges. Our bungalow when built new around 1963 had lots of plywood panels to its exterior and many of these are actually still in place but now under the new plywood panels I've just installed; I use WBP grade plywood and take great care in protecting all edges and both surfaces; the edges are protected by both oil based and water based paint receiving multiple coats ensuring no bare plywood remained exposed; the back of each panel has been given one Zinsser primer coat; I Little Greene Undercoat and one Little Greene top coat all oil based paints. The front of the panels have also been well protected with multiple coats of paint; I had the Little Greene paint in stock but I spent around £400 on the American Benjamin Moore Aura Exterior Satin which is now available in the UK through the sole importers Shaw's this paint costs around £70 per US gallon plus delivery. I've wanted to buy the American paint for years knowing that so many American homes are covered in masses of wooden cladding and their paint seems to stand up well after all I can't see American homeowners wanting to repaint so much exterior cladding every two or three years the cost would be prohibitive; I've tried lots of top brands of paint here in the UK but it seldom comes up to expectations; I'll be interested to see how the Benjamin Moore paint withstands our Yorkshire wet black hole? I've also taken a lot of trouble to ensure rainwater and snow are not allowed to gain access to end grain or the panel backs.

 

Thanks Ryman for asking; yes Marine plywood would bring tears to my eyes if I bought enough to complete the bungalow exterior; the softwood frames are the originals and still in perfect condition; I replaced the double glazed units last year the originals just starting to fail at over 50 years old; I wonder how many of the modern plastic framed windows will still be as good 50 years hence? If these new plywood panels do fail it will obviously be a huge disappointment but they are screwed into position so can easily be removed. I did actually not only look at cement fibre boards but I went ahead and ordered enough to cover the job ordering online; my order was accepted and my money taken then a couple of days later the online company cancelled my order and immediately returned the money into our account saying the boards were out of stock? This turned out to be a blessing in disguise; I'm aware of plywood delaminating but looking at the reviews on this cement fibre board it too has lots of problems and can fail quicker than plywood; lots of new builds have cement fibre board installed; there could be lots of problems ahead?

 

Back to the plot and thanks again Sad555; Bron and I are now much happier and feel more settled with our Yeti; each time we go out in the Yeti I switch off the stop/start so the major problem is well sorted and I've no more fear of being stranded with hazard lights running at green traffic lights; yesterday returning from a garden centre I noticed the fuel gauge has started to behave it's needle is once again falling slowly from full tank as fuel is used whereas it had started to suddenly fall from full to the first big marker; this was only a minor problem and I've also been kindly made aware of how the fuel consumption is recorded; I didn't even know about "consumption" where the numbers bounce up and down all the time and still think this function for the average driver to be a waste of time but the "AV Consumption" works fine and is interesting to watch the best reading to date is just under 78 mpg. I still don't know how it tripped over to Consumption from Av Consumption but now at least I know how to change it back to AV Consumption.

 

Bron and I couldn't have got off to a worse start with our new Yeti; with only around 10 miles on it's clock it sitting on our driveway; Bron was ill and I was carted off by emergency ambulance to spend three days in hospital; Bron doesn't drive so was in a panic; it was our 40th wedding anniversary which was totally spoiled; I had lots of problems with the supplying dealer regarding cancelling the previous Gap insurance and the servicing contract; then the problem of the stop/start failing so badly twice at green traffic lights; little niggles with the consumption and the fuel gauge all built up into just one major problem; our own personal problems and the problems associated with the Yeti combined became just too much; we came so near to dumping the Yeti which truly upset me but suddenly now everything is OK in our lives; after 40 years hard graft on our homes I've at last caught up on all the big jobs; Bron has got rid of her nasty chesty cough and I'm clear of doctors and hospitals; the Yeti has shaken hands with me and I do love our Yeti; Bron is now happier with the Yeti because I'm happy with it; neither of us invited or welcomed all the hassles but now time to start afresh; we have a lovely home and a nice shiny new Yeti. I'm sorry if I've been a moaner but I've added the story as it unfolded and wouldn't wish it upon anyone.

 

I don't fall out easily and offered to start over afresh with the supplying dealer but unfortunately it is now clear Bron and I are no longer valued cash customers so we will be dealing in future with RRG Skoda in Rochdale who do make us welcome and who do actually respond on Briskoda forum. I can't help but feel our local supplying Skoda main dealer think they can treat customer's as they wish because they have the Skoda monopoly with customers needing correct Skoda servicing; Bron and I will now deal with RRG only 20 miles distant from us; there is usually an answer to a problem.

 

Anyone wishing to discuss further DIY activities may I please politely request this be done through Ultimatehandyman after all Briskoda is about all things Skoda and I don't want to get my legs slapped for being light years off topic.

 

Kind regards, Col.

[Ryeman]

I would hope no asbestos from China gets imported in any building products you get hold of either.

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

Thanks Ryeman; asbestos is a known killer but these days asbestos is treated as though it's highly radioactive. So many things have now disappeared from our lives which  50 years ago were commonplace. Creosote (Genuine); lead paint; oil based paints; nitrocellulose paint on the way out and DDT. As kids we often broke up old asbestos garages and many times at work I came into contact with corrugated asbestos sheeting; I'm not saying these things are safe but to see people dressed like spacemen just to handle a bit of asbestos makes me wonder where things are going? 

 

Whilst laying in the hospital bed recently I had the catheter and the stomach drain removed together with the drip at 3am; getting rid of these three was wonderful but not as wonderful as to how the two slices of toast and jam were which I eagerly scoffed after three days on the drip. Since then I think I've become addicted to 5 seeded bread toast and Morrison's blackcurrant jam; no doubt both the toast and jam are harmful to my health? I'm all for health and safety but I believe school kids now have to wear full armour just to play conkers?  In 1962 aged 15 I was down the pit as an apprentice where top highly skilled engineers taught me about safety; it was common to work inches away from massive machinery with the machinery under power but I always felt safe knowing the dangers; any amount of guards on a machine will never render a machine totally safe because someone will want to stick a finger in. Many power tools are openly sold over the counter to anyone with the money to buy them; how many buying a circular saw or chainsaw have received training on these and both are highly dangerous in a novice's hands.  Just me rambling as usual but I've seen many changes in my lifetime. 

 

Kind regards, Col. 

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

Two days ago I had a trip over to Poynton in our Yeti to collect a garden shredder; the actual journey to Poynton was terrible being mostly gridlock. The distance was only 36 miles but took two and a half hours. I now automatically switch off the stop/start and as the Yeti is now friends with me I love owning and driving it. I always use the SatNav and dash cam every journey these being powered through a "Splitter" plugged into the tunnel 12V socket. The return journey took just an hour less but mostly in the dark with drizzle for company. Out of interest I added two videos from the Transcend Drive Pro 100 dash cam onto YouTube to show night footage during the return journey. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScF9AV_7oGU

 

One of the videos is shown at the link above; nothing exciting but shows how good these dash cams are even in the dark and it couldn't have been much darker once I turned off Manchester Road and headed up the mountain in fact it was so dark it was quite eerie; the sound on the Yeti can be heard purring nicely with the odd SatNav instruction; the Yeti came up to the summit in fourth gear without trouble which was most impressive given how steep and long the winding narrow road is. Near Poynton I noticed a huge Italian supercar going in the opposite direction at least it was when it could move due to volume of traffic; I bet the driver was well pleased not being able to fully get it into first gear having to slip the clutch; what a waste of such a car but then boys like their toys assuming it was a guy at the wheel.

 

Our Yeti now has just over 2,000 miles on the clock and over the last two weeks I've really settled with it; switching the stop/start off isn't a big issue and on the odd occasion when I forget to switch it off as soon as the engine dies I simply press the switch; I'm no longer worried about the engine stopping and refusing to start so can relax and enjoy the Yeti which after all is a lovely car; yes if it carries on like this I would definitely buy another Yeti it's brilliant and now comes up to my expectations so I'm happy.  :clap:

 

Kind regards, Col.

[Fabcol]

Hi,

 

Bron and I were out in the Yeti on Tuesday morning travelling down down Maple Street in Huddersfield and as we approached the junction at the bottom the engine died on us; we hadn't stopped and the stop/start was definitely switched OFF. We stopped at the junction and the engine fired up OK on the key; I hope this is a one off; I don't like or trust the stop/start when it's switched on and now I no longer trust it when it's switched off. When the engine died Bron said what's happened?    I still love the Yeti but am rather concerned as to its long term reliability if this sort of thing happens with only 2,000 miles on its clock.

 

Kind regards, Col.