Jump to content

Washer pump problems!


KBPhoto

Recommended Posts

EDITED TITLE as the problem appears to have been identified and a solution now needs to be found.

Has anyone had any problems with their washer pump gradually weakening? I've not heard of this before. Complete failures I have, but not a pump wearing out iver a two-three week period.

Basically the pump is working - screen wash still comes out, the tank is full (I filled it up yesterday and the warning hasn't been on since about May) and the jets are clean.

Both sides are affected exactly the same which suggests it's not blocked jets.

Any thoughts on the pump and whether it needs replacing?

Is it a removal of front bumper job?

Edited by KBPhoto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's the pressure like to the rear screen? More likely to be a loose connection in the pipes, check for fluid leaking to the ground when you run the washers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions guys.

I'll check the rear screen pressure tomorrow as I can't remember the last time I used the rear washer!

Pretty sure it's not leaking washer fluid anywhere, but will double check.

There isn't the usual sound from the pump when in use, it sounds quieter, more feeble. Neither does I t doesn't sound as though the pump is being overworked due to a blockage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The integrity of the shaft seal in the pump may be compromised and the screenwash could be making its way into the motor side of the pump, that would make it sound more feeble until it dies completely.

 

I would just wait it out until it dies or becomes useless then investigate further. Or if its bothering you (I know it would annoy me) I would remove it from the reservoir and test/inspect.

 

Another possibility is a bad connection somewhere causing the voltage to drop at the pump, again, this will need investigating.

Edited by SuperbTWM
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll be doing some investigation pretty soon as it's barely getting water into the screen now...

Testing electrical connections has always been a 'black art' to me - I have neither the tools or knowledge to be able to do that. Unless I can check with VCDS...

Am I right in thinking that the pump works in one direction for the front washers and the opposite direction for the rears?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what sort of screen wash have you been using and when was the last time you topped it up?

 

might be worth flushing the reservoir with a hose in the filler to dislodge any crud built up and keep working the washer to see if it improves

 

the other option is disconnect the washer tube from the washer jets (not sure how easy the access is ) and run the washers to see the pressure you get to see if at crud in the washer jets

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've only ever used VAG screen wash since I've had the car and this has been the first time I've had any issues.

Topped it up yesterday as I wondered whether it was just getting low (although the low level warning hasn't come on) and it's worse today than at the weekend.

I'll have a look at removing any pipe work I can find and cleaning it or flushing it through where practical.

Where is the pump actually located?

Edited by KBPhoto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't used the washers much as haven't needed to drive the car recently.

First noticed a possible issue last week and it's got progressively worse since then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where is the pump actually located?

I'd imagine behind the bumper nearside.

May be able to access it if wheel arch liner removed or pulled back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pumps are on the side of the washer tank. One for the headlamp washers and one for the windscreen & rear screen.

The screen washer pump appears to be a reversing type.

post-81324-0-74496400-1476225455_thumb.jpg

Quite likely your headlamp washer is as strong as normal, but both front & rear washers are weak then it's possible the shuttle valve rubber seals have swelled up (making it longer and not allowing it to slide back and forth).

The blue section of the pump can be taken apart to remove the shuttle and trim the ends off it with a razor blade to reduce its length so it can slide back & forth again. 

I have had to do this a couple of times on other cars.

Edited by RickT
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a washer fluid that foamed a little too much in the system,

I syphoned out the system and added warm water then operated

the washers, a few times until normal operation commenced.

I have now returned to my usual brand

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rear washer is very powerful (seems to be more powerful than before).

The headlight washer is very powerful.

The front windscreen washers picked up under testing but have barely a dribble coming out now.

No leaks in the system that I can detect (by looking at the engine bay, under the car and on the driveway.

Is this leaning towards a blockage in between the pump and the windscreen washer nozzles?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would expect that there is a Tee piece connection of the pipes under the scuttle. Disconnect the pipe and see how much pressure there is.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't get as much of an opportunity to investigate today as I'd hoped; so tomorrow I'll start following pipes from the jets back to the pump checking pressure at each junction I get to.

Just for reference, the Yeti's washer nozzles are on the bonnet lid which makes checking it quite tricky as the washers don't work if the bonnet is open...

Just like the headlight washers don't work unless the lights are on! (Knowing that could have saved me some time. But a check with VCDS showed the headlightvwashers were working just fine.)

I'll have to find a way of fooling the car into thinking the bonnet is closed while I rummage around with pipes.

Thank you to everyone who has contributed their thoughts so far. They are very much appreciated and are helping me track down the source of the problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finding any junctions is proving difficult as there don't appear to be any other than those behind the bonnet insulation...

I've tried blowing back down these and can hear a bubbling in the washer reservoir so some air must be getting back down.

I think I'm going to have to start taking bits off the car to track this one down. Unless anyone knows any better!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If only this 'cover' could actually be removed to access the washer bottle outlet and pump.

post-59543-0-03838500-1476639191_thumb.jpg

Now that would be 'Simply Clever'.

Edited by KBPhoto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if these two pictures might might help in some way?

 

If I remember correctly, I downloaded them from a previous thread by one of our good Australian members friends quite some time ago. For the life of me I cannot remember when or who - but thanks go to them anyway...........Tony

 

 

post-62225-0-80525700-1476653327_thumb.jpg

post-62225-0-29068400-1476653356_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That certainly does help 'Great Yeti'.

There seems to be two pumps: I'm guessing one for headlight washers (on the NS) and one for the front & rear screens (bi-directional pump on the OS). Can anyone confirm?

If this is correct, then which pipe is for the front screen or is it likely that the pump has failed in one direction only?

It looks like it will have to be a bumper off job to get to the pumps.

Does anyone have instructions for removing the bumper on a Yeti?

Edited by KBPhoto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have replaced a few plastic checkvalves on other cars I have owned. The rubber valve seems to swell under sustained contact with isopropanol and other alcohols.
The checkvalves are usually installed near the nozzles, or they may be included in the nozzle assembly.

Haven't looked for the checkvalves in the Yeti since there has never been a problem :angel:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Typical - almost finished removing the bumper using this diagram as a guide and cannot for the life of me work out how to access the screws / bolts #1 on the diagram.

 

imageproxy.php.jpeg

 

I'm not even sure I'm looking at the right ones as there are two pairs in the same area... I think it's the upper ones and might be able to get to the by bending the wheel arch cover back enough to get a hand and spanner in!

 

Anyone got any tips on getting these out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just in case anyone needs it, here's the part numbers off a 2010 / pre-FL Yeti.

 

Screen Shot 2017-01-27 at 11.32.27.png

 

Spreader rivets are highlighted as the heads of these ones were damaged in removal (pulled with pliers as I do not have a tool that can get under the heads and apply sufficient force to extract them).

 

Is there an official removal tool for these?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.