YETI 1.2 TSI 110PS

[silworld]

Hi everyone, 

 

I am trying to find out the main problems (major or small) that can arise with this model or hear from owners that have experienced issues with this particular model or petrol engines in general since the latest facelift was introduced in 2014.

 

I am in the market for a Yeti Outdoor. Petrol preferably and I don't mind a small 1.2 engine. Although I also wouldn't mind any other engines in the petrol range. I'm looking to be warned/advised about the potential issues that the car might have and if there are any ongoing problems. I am after long term reliability as I intend to keep the car forever.

 

Any help and comments are greatly appreciated. Many thanks!

Edited 17 October, 2016 by silworld

[Clive]

 I am after long term reliability as I intend to keep the car forever.

 

Wow that's a long time (I would hope) 

[logiclee]

You may read of a few issues related to the 1.2TSi but there are two very different versions of this size engine.

 

The 1.2TSi was launched as a single cam 8 Valve engine with power outputs upto 105PS. The single camshaft was chain driven and there are problems with the chain tensioners and there were early problems with the turbo which required a shim fitting in the wastegate.

 

The 1.2TSi 110PS is an entirely new engine, it's a 16 Valve engine which has dual camshafts which are belt driven. It produces torque earlier in the rev range and thanks to a dual water circuit heats the cabin quickrt. This engine has a good reputation for reliability but it is a bit early to know of long term issues. Sounds nicer too and I have one of each on the drive.

 

Sad thing is the 1.2TSi 16V engine will have a very short run as it's being replaced by a 1.0 3 cylinder TSi

 

Lee

Edited 17 October, 2016 by logiclee

[silworld]

Thanks so much Lee for your detailed answer. It is appreciated. 

Edited 17 October, 2016 by silworld

[Tech-Yeti]

The 1.2 TSi 110 CYVB engine has been used throughout the VAG group of vehicles with total success for a couple of years now although it has only just come out in the Yeti .

I have one and am very pleased, it's not the best when it comes to MPG, but I get 43.5 overall and I've not done a run over 20 miles yet.

[silworld]

Hi Tech -Yeti,

 

Is the 1.2 TSi 110 CYVB the most recent one fitted in Yetis? And, as logiclee said, do you find it less prone to issues? 

And one last question. What does CYVB stand for?

 

Many thanks!

 

Ps. That MPG figure is pretty impressive. It would be nice to know how it fares on long runs over 20 miles on motorway. 

Edited 17 October, 2016 by silworld

[Clive]

 What does CYVB stand for?

 

It doesn't really 'stand for' anything mate , it's just an engine code.

Edited 17 October, 2016 by Clive

[silworld]

Thank you Clive. Is there a way to know which YETIS are fitted with a 1.2 TSi 110 CYVB?

 

Cheers.

Edited 17 October, 2016 by silworld

[Clive]

Thank you Clive. Is there a way to know which YETIS are fitted with a 1.2 TSi 110 CYVB?

 

Cheers.

 

As far as I know the only way to confirm if a particular Yeti has the CYVB engine would be to look at the engine number (on the block), or to look on the V5C registration document.

 

In both cases the engine number begins with the letters CYVB followed by 6 numbers.

[Clive]

For future reference I've posted a link to a list of all Škoda engine codes HERE.

[silworld]

Thanks for that, Clive. Very useful. 

[logiclee]

Thank you Clive. Is there a way to know which YETIS are fitted with a 1.2 TSi 110 CYVB?

 

Cheers.

 

If it's advertised as a 110 then it should be a CYVB as the earlier engines were only 105PS.

 

The 1.2TSi can be a very economical unit as long as you are gentle with the throttle, the Yeti's weight and aerodynamics do work against you though especially with high speed motorway work.

On a 75-80mph motorway run our Octavia 1.2TSi is 10mpg more economical than our Yeti 1.2TSi due to the aerodynamics. Around town it's much closer, the Octavia slightly better as it's 100kg lighter.

The economy is much more variable than a diesel and very dependent on load, wind and mostly driving style. On my 60 mile round trip commute to work I've had a best of 50mpg and a worst of 32mpg using the same roads.

 

Lee

[logiclee]

You can tell the difference easily under the bonnet. they are very different.

 

This is the 105.

You can see the turbo is at the front of the car under the heat shield and the air filter box is on the right.

 

 

The 110 engine is tilted back towards the bulkhead and the turbo is near the bulkhead. The Air Filter Box is directly infront of the engine.

[silworld]

Thanks so much again Lee for the concise answers. I have a clear idea about this engine now. Much appreciated and thank you for the pictures. Very very helpful.

Edited 17 October, 2016 by silworld

[silworld]

Oh... another question relating to the 1.2 TSi 110PS. Am I right assuming that a manual Yeti is more economical than an automatic one? Thank you.

[logiclee]

Oh... another question relating to the 1.2 TSi 110PS. Am I right assuming that a manual Yeti is more economical than an automatic one? Thank you.

 

Both have official combined figures of 51.4mpg. On the road there's very little difference.

 

The DSG does feel more lively on the road, partly due to the extra ratio and partly due to how fast it changes gear.

 

You have to drive one and see it it suits you though, some love DSG and some hate them.

 

Lee

[SurreyJohn]

Both have official combined figures of 51.4mpg. On the road there's very little difference.

 

The DSG does feel more lively on the road, partly due to the extra ratio and partly due to how fast it changes gear.

 

You have to drive one and see it it suits you though, some love DSG and some hate them.

 

Lee

I've just taken delivery of the DSG version and gearbox suits it very well. Not yet used the S setting as handbook suggests don't thrash it for first 1000 miles. But is surprisingly lively in D

However if it is a long term car, the manual might be safer. The DSG box from 3 or 4 years ago had problems, but should be sorted now, but too early to confirm. I had a 14reg Fabia and I did 15k miles in 19 months (from 13k to 28.5k miles) most in outer London traffic, 10 miles each way commute. That DSG never showed any hint of trouble.

So far, with tight new engine, getting 37-42 mpg on my outer London start/stop commute.

[Ryeman]

The DSG has to run a pump to supply pressurised transmission fluid to activate the changes in a more complex unit.

A manual requires your left leg muscle and is more simple.

[BJ127]

It may sound odd because of arthritis in both knees I opted for a manual as both legs are getting movement less chance of stiff leg at end of journey.

I prefer to avoid motorways smaller A and B roads give more driving pleasure.

Of course I'm retied and travel is not essential for work.

Horses for courses.

[Ryeman]

It may sound odd because of arthritis in both knees I opted for a manual as both legs are getting movement less chance of stiff leg at end of journey.

I prefer to avoid motorways smaller A and B roads give more driving pleasure.

Of course I'm retied and travel is not essential for work.

Horses for courses.

Exactly

Likewise

[Urrell]

It may sound odd because of arthritis in both knees I opted for a manual as both legs are getting movement less chance of stiff leg at end of journey.

 

Another +1

My dad always said "If you don't use it you'll lose it"' he was driving up to the age of 90.

[silworld]

Thanks everyone for all the advice. The more knowledge I have about this car the safer I feel when I take the plunge and buy it. Which should be fairly soon!

[Clive]

Thanks everyone for all the advice. The more knowledge I have about this car the safer I feel when I take the plunge and buy it. Which should be fairly soon!

 

Best of luck 

[decuk]

Our new 1.2 SEL dsg arrived at my dealers yesterday. Collect it Wednesday.

One of many advantages of buying Skoda is VW/Audi have usually installed major components (engines/gearboxes) in their models first, before allowing Seat & Skoda to use them. But of course real world long term running is the only test. However 3 years warranty usually sorts things out. Once any car reaches 5 or 6 years old, anything can fail. It's pure chance.

[SurreyJohn]

Thanks everyone for all the advice. The more knowledge I have about this car the safer I feel when I take the plunge and buy it. Which should be fairly soon!

If you are going to keep the car, add the 5 year warranty option. It's much better value than trying to add a warranty extension later which will cost more and may not be as comprehensive. Should also mean you have 5 years peace of mind that if something expensive fails, Skoda will pick up the bill.

Don't bother with service plans, they tend to be based on minimum level which can cause problems in later years.

Finally if you intend to keep it for many years, spec it as you want it, there are lots of options, divide them into essential, nice to haves, and don't care if there or not. Obviously buy first group (otherwise it will be a niggle), don't waste money on third group, the middle ones are your preference vs cost.

Probably be about 3 months lead time, so order it about 4 months before current car is due service/mot to minimise cost on current car. Enjoy it, I love my new yeti.

Edited 20 October, 2016 by SurreyJohn